Things To Do in Coban

While many of this region's principal attractions are outside of Cobán, the city and its immediate environs have a lot to offer visitors.

On a hill overlooking the city sits the Templo El Calvario, an 1810 church with a beautifully restored facade. You'll have to climb a flight of steep and broad steps before reaching the commanding view, and on the way you'll pass a series of altars used for specific prayers -- health, love, wealth, success. It's believed that this site has been sacred to the local Maya for millennia, and the ongoing prayers here still bear the Maya influence. El Calvario is located at the north end of 7a Avenida. Warning: Avoid this area after dark or when there are few other people around, as attacks and robberies have occurred.

The city's main Catholic church, the Catedral de Santo Domingo, was built in the mid-16th century under the direction of Fray Melchor del los Reyes. It underwent subsequent modifications in 1741, 1792, and 1965. Today, the most interesting feature of this church is its massive whitewashed facade, which is rather plain and lacking ornamentation, but impressive in its size and antiquity. Inside you'll find a decent collection of colonial-era religious art and sculpture.

Just north of the Templo El Calvario is the Parque Nacional Las Victorias, a nature reserve that's a good place for a walk, jog, or bird-watching. The park has a few trails, as well as picnic tables and open-air shelters. Camping is permitted, but I don't recommend it as it's dangerous, and there have been attacks and robberies. If you want to camp, head toward Lanquin or Semuc Champey. Las Victorias park is open daily from 8am to 4pm. Admission is Q5 (65¢/35p).

In the heart of Cobán sits the small, but rewarding, Príncipe Maya Museum, 6a Av. 4-26, Zona 3 (tel. 502/7959-2235). This private museum has an extensive collection of pieces ranging from utilitarian pottery and ornamental burial urns to musical instruments and elegant jewelry. There are jade inlaid teeth, a full burial reconstruction, and a panel from the Cancuen archaeological site with intricate bas-relief hieroglyphics. One of my favorite pieces here is a miniature Olmec man. The museum is open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 5pm. Admission is Q15 ($2/£1).

Plant enthusiasts will want to visit Vivero Verapaz (tel. 502/7951-4202), which claims to have more than 35,000 plants, including more than 650 species of orchids. You'll also be able to check out Guatemala's national flower, Monja Blanca (White Nun). This nursery-cum-botanical garden is open daily from 9am to noon and 2 to 5pm. Admission is Q15 ($2/£1) and includes a guided tour.

If coffee is the only species of tropical flora that interests you, you're in luck. Finca Santa Margarita, 3a Calle 4-12, Zona 2 (tel. 502/7951-3067), is a working coffee plantation in the heart of downtown Cobán. These folks offer a 1 1/2-hour guided tour on the history, technique, and culture of coffee growing and processing, with a tasting afterward. Tours are available Monday through Friday from 8am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 5pm, and Saturday 8am to noon. The cost for both admission and a tour is Q15 ($2/£1).

Take a Break -- Touring the town can take its toll, and a coffee break is the perfect way to recharge your battery. If you want to keep your eye on the action, grab a seat at the side-street cafe at Hotel La Posada, 1a Calle 4-12, Zona 2 (tel. 502/7952-1495), which overlooks the west end of the central plaza. For a wide selection of exotic coffee drinks and the chance to check your e-mail, head to Café Fantasia, 1a Calle 3-13, Zona 2 (tel. 502/5001-0003), which is also just off the plaza but set back a bit from the action.