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Sé Velha

Of Coimbra’s two cathedrals, this is the older and most interesting one. Its fortress-like construction—plain stone with crenellated battlements and arrow-slit windows—is a reminder of the days when the Mondego was a frontline in battles between Christians and Muslims for control of the Iberian peninsula. Founded in 1170 by Portugal's founder king Afonso Henriques, it is considered Portugal's best-preserved Romanesque cathedral. But inside, in the wide, atmospheric space beneath great barrel-arched roof, you’ll see the lingering Islamic influence on Portuguese art (in the years of the Reconquista) on the plant and animal carvings at the tops of the columns and the geometric ceramic tile patterns. Look around and still another influence intrudes: contrasting with the Romanesque simplicity, the main chapel is filled with a soaring flamboyant Gothic retable carved by Flemish artists in the 15 century with gilded sculptures telling the story of Christ. Sé Velha is conveniently located on the way down from the university to the Baixa district and it's surrounded by cafes, bars and restaurants