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Nacional

Off the beaten track in a side-street on the northern edge of the Baixa, this place was a renowned billiard hall before it was turned into a spacious, second-floor restaurant in 1977. Now it's an institution where generations of families, office workers and groups of friends come to enjoy home-style Portuguese comfort food. There's modern art on the bare stone walls, but also a feeling little has changed here for years. Each day of the week has a selection of regular specials. Friday, for example offers cozido à Portuguesa (mixed boiled meats, traditional smoked sausages, boiled vegetables and rice),  pato assado à Ribatejana (roast duck, giblets in rice and smoked sausages) or bacalhau à Vila Nova (fried salt cod with mayonnaise and mashed potato). Old school, but delicious. A half portion (meia dose) will satisfy all but the most gargantuan appetites.