Things To Do in Coimbra

Coimbra Attractions

Coimbra's charms and mysteries unfold as you walk up Rua Ferreira Borges, under the Gothic Arco de Almedina with its coat of arms. From that point, you can continue up the steep street, past antiques shops, to the old quarter.

Across from the National Museum is Sé Nova (New Cathedral), Largo da Sé Nova, which has a cold 17th-century neoclassical interior. Admission is free. It's open Tuesday through Friday from 9am to 12:30pm and 2 to 5:30pm. More interesting is Sé Velha (Old Cathedral), Largo da Sé Velha (tel. 23/982-31-38), founded in 1170. The crenellated cathedral enjoys associations with St. Anthony of Padua. You enter by passing under a Romanesque portal. Usually a student is here, willing to show you (for a tip) the precincts, including the restored cloister. The pride of this monument is the gilded Flemish retable over the main altar, with a crucifix on top. To the left of the altar is a 16th-century chapel, designed by a French artist, that contains the tomb of one of the bishops of Coimbra. Admission to the old cathedral is free; admission to the cloisters is 1.50€. The Sé Velha is open Monday to Saturday 10am to 6pm.

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Coimbra Shopping

Many of Coimbra's most interesting shops lie near the Sé Velha, on the narrow streets radiating from Rua do Quebra Costas. Because of its steep inclines, its name (The Street That Will Break Your Back) seems appropriate. Look for lots of outlets selling products manufactured in the surrounding region. The best bookstore, with a number of English editions, is Livraria Bertrand, Largo da Portagem 9 (tel. 23/982-30-14), a block from the tourist office.

Even the city's tourist authorities usually recommend short excursions into the suburbs and outlying villages for anyone seriously interested in shopping. Possibilities include the villages of Lousã, 21km (13 miles) southeast, and Penacova, 21km (13 miles) east, where unpretentious kiosks and stands beside the roads sell hand-woven baskets and ceramics. Contact the tourist office for directions.

A worthier destination is Condeixa, 17km (11 miles) south; its shops are better stocked, and the staff members are prepared for foreigners who don't speak Portuguese. To reach the village, take EN1 and follow signs toward Lisboa. Condeixa is home to nine independent ceramics factories, which are the source of most residents' income. The most appealing are Ceramica Berardos, Barreira, EN1, Condeixa (no phone); and Filceramica, Avenal, Condeixa (no phone). The merchants will usually agree (for a fee) to insure and ship your purchases. Because of the expense, it's usually a lot easier just to buy an extra suitcase, wrap your porcelain carefully, and haul it back with you on the plane.

Coimbra Nightlife

The city's large student population guarantees an active, sometimes raucous nightlife. You'll find the bars around the Sé Velha and its square, Largo da Sé Velha, packed with students, professors, and locals, who drink, gossip, and discuss academic priorities. Our favorite experience is hopping randomly from bar to bar. For late-night fado, head for À Capella, Rua Corpo de Deus (tel. 23/983-39-85) which was turned into a cafe from a chapel constructed back in 1364. Open daily 1pm to 3am, it offers nightly performances at 9:30, 10:30, and 11:30pm, with a 5€ cover charge.

The town's dance clubs rock at least 5 nights a week (sometimes 7, depending on how many students are in town). The glamour and desirability of the dance clubs we recommend below increase or decrease every season based on the whims of the danceaholic public. Depending on your mood and who's there at the time of your visit, the most worthwhile is Passarelle, Praça Machado Assis 22 (tel. 23/982-70-67), which gets lively after 10:30pm and often stays open until around 3am or, on Friday and Saturday, until dawn.

Student celebrations in Coimbra include the Queima das Fitas (Burning of the Ribbons), a graduation ritual during the first or second week of May. Then loosely organized serenatas (troupes of students who re-create the music and aura of medieval troubadours) sing and wander through Coimbra's streets at unannounced intervals. It's impossible to predict when and where you're likely to find these spontaneous reminders of yesteryear.