Coimbra Attractions
Coimbra's charms and mysteries unfold as you walk up Rua Ferreira Borges, under the Gothic Arco de Almedina with its coat of arms. From that point, you can continue up the steep street, past antiques shops, to the old quarter.
Across from the National Museum is Sé Nova (New Cathedral), Largo da Sé Nova, which has a cold 17th-century neoclassical interior. Admission is free. It's open Tuesday through Friday from 9am to 12:30pm and 2 to 5:30pm. More interesting is Sé Velha (Old Cathedral), Largo da Sé Velha (tel. 23/982-31-38), founded in 1170. The crenellated cathedral enjoys associations with St. Anthony of Padua. You enter by passing under a Romanesque portal. Usually a student is here, willing to show you (for a tip) the precincts, including the restored cloister. The pride of this monument is the gilded Flemish retable over the main altar, with a crucifix on top. To the left of the altar is a 16th-century chapel, designed by a French artist, that contains the tomb of one of the bishops of Coimbra. Admission to the old cathedral is free; admission to the cloisters is 1.50€. The Sé Velha is open Monday to Saturday 10am to 6pm.
- Monument
Arco e Torre de Almedina
The arch and tower of Almedina form the gateway into the upper town, or Alto, leading to steps and lanes that clamber up towards the university. The Gothic arch and medieval tower form an imposing entry point into what was the Arab medina before the city fell to the Portuguese in… - Neighborhood
Baixa
This downtown district was for centuries Coimbra's commercial heart. In recent years some of the life has been sucked out due to the construction of out-of-center shopping malls, particularly the giant Forum Coimbra. Nevertheless, the neighborhood retains great charm. It's also… - Religious Site
Convento de Santa Clara-a-Nova
On the left bank of the Mondego, on a hill with commanding views over the city, is the New Convent of St. Clara. Its gold-covered baroque interior is one of the best examples of talho dourado, the Portuguese art form that involves covering intricate carved wood work in gold leaf. It… - Religious Site
Igreja e Mosteiro da Santa Cruz
This former monastery was founded in the late 12th century during the reign of Afonso Henríques, Portugal's first king. Its original Romanesque style gave way to Manueline restorers in 1507. This is where the story of Pedro the Cruel and Inês de Castro reached its climax. Tiles… - Museum
Museu Nacional de Machado de Castro
Even if it were empty, this museum would be worth a visit for the stunning historic building alone. Housed in a palace that was home to the city's bishops in Renaissance times, the upper floors contain an award winning modern extension completed in 2012 and including a cool café… - Museum
Museu da Ciência
Up on university hill, the charmingly eccentric Science Museum combines collections of gem stones, stuffed animals and mock ups of 18th-century chemistry labs with state-of-the-art interactive exhibits to fire up young imaginations. Nominated for a European Museum of the Year Award… - Zoo
Parque Biológico da Serra da Lousã
A stroll through forested slopes takes you to enclosures containing animals who live, or once lived, in the Portuguese interior. There are deer, foxes, boar, lynx, wolves and bear on show. The park also has a handicraft store and an excellent restaurant the Museu da Chanfana, which… - Amusement Park/Garden
Portugal dos Pequenitos
"Portugal for the Little Ones" is a retro themepark built in the 1940s and dear to the heart of generations of Portuguese. Children can feel like Gulliver strolling through this Lilliputian world made up of miniature reconstructions of Portugal's main monuments and traditional homes… - Park/Garden
Quinta das Lágrimas
Ever since the legendary poet Camões told the story of this "Garden of Tears," romantics from around the world have visited it. The gardens have been the property of the Osorio Cabral family since the 18th century, but before that they were owned by Inês de Castro, mistress of Pedro… - Reglious Site
Sé Velha
Of Coimbra’s two cathedrals, this is the older and most interesting one. Its fortress-like construction—plain stone with crenellated battlements and arrow-slit windows—is a reminder of the days when the Mondego was a frontline in battles between Christians and Muslims for control of… - Landmark
Universidade de Coimbra
The focal point for most visitors to Coimbra is the University of Coimbra, established here in 1537 on orders of João III. Among its alumni are Luís Vas de Camões (the country's greatest poet, author of the national epic, Os Lusíadas), St. Anthony of Padua (also the patron saint of…
Coimbra Shopping
Many of Coimbra's most interesting shops lie near the Sé Velha, on the narrow streets radiating from Rua do Quebra Costas. Because of its steep inclines, its name (The Street That Will Break Your Back) seems appropriate. Look for lots of outlets selling products manufactured in the surrounding region. The best bookstore, with a number of English editions, is Livraria Bertrand, Largo da Portagem 9 (tel. 23/982-30-14), a block from the tourist office.
Even the city's tourist authorities usually recommend short excursions into the suburbs and outlying villages for anyone seriously interested in shopping. Possibilities include the villages of Lousã, 21km (13 miles) southeast, and Penacova, 21km (13 miles) east, where unpretentious kiosks and stands beside the roads sell hand-woven baskets and ceramics. Contact the tourist office for directions.
A worthier destination is Condeixa, 17km (11 miles) south; its shops are better stocked, and the staff members are prepared for foreigners who don't speak Portuguese. To reach the village, take EN1 and follow signs toward Lisboa. Condeixa is home to nine independent ceramics factories, which are the source of most residents' income. The most appealing are Ceramica Berardos, Barreira, EN1, Condeixa (no phone); and Filceramica, Avenal, Condeixa (no phone). The merchants will usually agree (for a fee) to insure and ship your purchases. Because of the expense, it's usually a lot easier just to buy an extra suitcase, wrap your porcelain carefully, and haul it back with you on the plane.
Coimbra Nightlife
The city's large student population guarantees an active, sometimes raucous nightlife. You'll find the bars around the Sé Velha and its square, Largo da Sé Velha, packed with students, professors, and locals, who drink, gossip, and discuss academic priorities. Our favorite experience is hopping randomly from bar to bar. For late-night fado, head for À Capella, Rua Corpo de Deus (tel. 23/983-39-85) which was turned into a cafe from a chapel constructed back in 1364. Open daily 1pm to 3am, it offers nightly performances at 9:30, 10:30, and 11:30pm, with a 5€ cover charge.
The town's dance clubs rock at least 5 nights a week (sometimes 7, depending on how many students are in town). The glamour and desirability of the dance clubs we recommend below increase or decrease every season based on the whims of the danceaholic public. Depending on your mood and who's there at the time of your visit, the most worthwhile is Passarelle, Praça Machado Assis 22 (tel. 23/982-70-67), which gets lively after 10:30pm and often stays open until around 3am or, on Friday and Saturday, until dawn.
Student celebrations in Coimbra include the Queima das Fitas (Burning of the Ribbons), a graduation ritual during the first or second week of May. Then loosely organized serenatas (troupes of students who re-create the music and aura of medieval troubadours) sing and wander through Coimbra's streets at unannounced intervals. It's impossible to predict when and where you're likely to find these spontaneous reminders of yesteryear.
