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Uformel, a spinoff of Michelin-starred Formel B, is under the command of young chef Frederik Rudkjøbing, and his vitality and willingness to deliver classic dishes with new inflections inform the experience of an evening here, which is conversational and contemporary despite the authority of the food. Offerings change seasonally but ingredients usually come from somewhere nearby; the greens, for example come from Lammefjorden, once a deep inland sea but in recent times a reclaimed branch of fresh farmland. Some of the flavors are a bit more adventurous than what some people might always order—veal sweetbreads, though very well sauced, won't be for everyone—but there are plenty of more accessible gourmet choices on the slate to please those who aren't so daring including, at times, ceviche, steak tartare, monkfish, teriyaki Danish duck, and fresh oysters from nearby waters. The browned butter ice cream with crunchy hazelnut is a particular treat. Well-crafted without being haughty, Uformel reflects the youthful vigor of its chef.