Across the street from the Patio de las Naranjas, the Red Horse sits at the end of a whitewashed passageway hung with pots of blooming geraniums, begonias, and impatiens. The restaurant is as lovely as its entrance, spreading 300 seats through two levels of dining rooms. The chef-owner is something of a scholar of Córdoban foodways, which makes for some interesting dishes adapted from Sephardic and Mozarabic traditions. Along with the classics (beef sirloin, roast pork, baked fish), you’ll find some dishes here rarely served outside people’s homes, such as lamb sweetbreads or partridge stewed with kidney beans. The house version of artichokes steamed in Montilla wine won first prize in a national gastronomic competition. Desserts are a big deal and many are made with egg yolks, almonds, dates, and other flavors of the Moorish tradition. You’ll find them hard to resist when the dessert cart rolls by.
- Frommer's Staff