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Things To Do in Corfu

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Corfu Attractions

Sitting Still -- Probably no one needs to be told that one of the great pleasures of traveling about Greece is just occasionally to sit still -- that is, to plunk yourself down on a cafe chair and enjoy a drink while you observe the passing scene. And arguably no more ideal place to do just that is at one of the cafes that set out their tables and chairs between the Liston and the Esplanade. The Liston, the impressive arcade, is a Greek version of "the List," referring to a list of upper-class and privileged individuals who were the only ones allowed to frequent this site after it was erected in the early 1800s. Gerald Durrell in his 1978 memoir of the family's time on Corfu, The Garden of the Gods, says it best: "The Platia [another name for the Liston] . . . was the hub of the island. Here you would sit at a little table under the arches or beneath the shimmering trees and, sooner or later, you would see everyone on the island and hear every facet of every scandal." Well, we may not be that kind of insider, but we can enjoy other pleasures, such as watching a game of cricket being played on the Esplanade (Spianada in Greek), the large greensward. Cricket is a vestige of the island's years under British rule, and another is ginger beer that you might consider sipping while you sit there.

Corfu Shopping

Corfu town has so many shops selling jewelry, leather goods, olive wood objects, and handmade needlework that it is impossible to single out one or another. If you're looking for needlework, the stores along Filarmonikis (off N. Teotoki) may have something that pleases you; prices are generally fair and uniform.

I would never recommend a trip to Corfu just for the kumquat liqueur, but this Chinese fruit has been cultivated on the island since the late 1800s, and the liqueur makes a unique treat -- or gift, if it doesn't appeal to you!

Standing out from the many souvenir-gift shops is Antica, 25 Ayios Spiridon, leading away from the north end of Liston (tel. 26610/32-401), offers unusual older jewelry, plates, textiles, brass, and icons. Gravures, 64 Ev. Voulgareos, where the street emerges from the old town to join the new town (tel. 26610/41-721), has a fine selection of engravings and prints of scenes from Corfu, all nicely matted. Originals (taken from old books or magazines) can cost 150€, reproductions as little as 10€. And for something special, visit the Patounis Soap-Making Factory on I. Theotaki (tel. 26610/39-860) and try some of their olive oil soap.

There's no dearth of ceramics in Corfu, but I favor the Pottery Workshop, 15km (10 miles) north of Corfu on the right of the road to Paleokastritsa (tel. 26610/90-704), where you get to observe Sofoklis Ikonomides and Sissy Moskidou making and decorating all the pottery on sale here. Two kilometers (1 1/4 miles) farther along the road, on the left, is the Wood's Nest, offering a large selection of olive wood objects just slightly cheaper than in town

Corfu Nightlife

Corfu town has a nightlife scene, though many people are content to linger over dinner and then, after a promenade, repair to one of the cafes at the Liston, such as the Capri, Liston, Europa, or Aegli -- all of which have similar selections of light refreshments and drinks. Others are drawn to the cafes at the north end of the Esplanade, just outside the Liston -- Cafe Bar 92, Magnet, or Cool Down. For a special treat, ascend to the rooftop cafe/bar at Cavalieri hotel. Another choice is Lindos Cafe, overlooking the beach and facilities of the Nautical Club of Corfu. It's approached by steps leading off Leoforos Demokratias, just south and outside the Esplanade. And one of the best-kept secrets of Corfu town is the little Art Cafe, to the right and behind the Museum of Asian Art; its garden provides a wonderful, cool, quiet retreat from the hustle and bustle of the rest of the town.

If you enjoy more action -- loud music and dancing -- several nightspots are along the coast to the north, between Corfu town and the beach resort of Gouvia. They include Ekati, a typical Greek nightclub; Esperides, featuring Greek music; and Corfu by Night, definitely touristy. Be prepared to drop money at these places.

The youngest night crawlers find places that go in and out of favor (and business) from year to year. Among the more enduring, up around the Esplanade, are the relatively sedate Aktaion, just to the right of the Old Fort, and clubs featuring the latest music, such as Hook and Base, along Kapodistriou (before the Cavialieri Hotel). Young people seeking more excitement go down past the new port to a strip of flashy discos. These clubs charge a cover (about 10€, including one drink).

In summer, frequent concerts by orchestras and bands are held on the Esplanade; most of them are free. Corfu town boasts the oldest band in Greece. The sound-and-light performances are described in the listing for the Old Fort. September brings Corfu Festival, with concerts, ballet, opera, and theater performances, by a mix of Greek and international companies. Carnival is celebrated on the last Sunday before Lent, with a parade and the burning of an effigy representing the spirit of Carnival.

Still another possibility would be to take one of the boat cruises that go out each night and provide both a refreshing atmosphere and a view of the glittering island. Any travel agency will be able to sign you up for one of these.

For those who like to gamble, the casino at the Corfu Holiday Palace is a few miles outside of town. Open nightly (8pm-3am) to individuals 23 years or older (ID required), it may not have the glamour of Monte Carlo, but it attracts an international set during the high season.

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