By Plane -- Flights to Cuiabá are available on TAM (tel. 0800/570-5700 or 065/4002-5700; www.tam.com.br), Gol (tel. 0300/115-2121; www.voegol.com.br), and TRIP (tel. 0300/789-8747; www.voetrip.com.br). Most flights connect to Cuiabá's Aeroporto Marechal Rondon (tel. 065/3614-2510) through Brasilia. Tours to a Pantanal lodge normally include pickup and drop-off at the airport, so there is no real reason to stay in Cuiabá.
By Bus -- Cuiabá's efficient bus terminal, Engenheiro de Sá (tel. 065/3621-1040), is on Av. Marechal Deodoro s/n in Alvorada, just north of the city center. Buses to Campo Grande, gateway to the South Pantanal, depart daily at 7am, 8pm, and 9:30pm and take 10 hours. The overnight buses have comfortable reclining chairs. Contact Motta (tel. 065/3621-2514; www.motta.com.br). The fare is R$85.
The state tourist office, Secretaria de Turismo (tel. 065/3613-9300; www.sedtur.mt.gov.br), is located too far from downtown to be of any use.
A Health Warning: Yellow Fever
In this region of Brazil, yellow fever is endemic, and you should get a shot at least 10 days before you travel to the Pantanal. Health authorities may ask for proof of vaccination, so carry your vaccine certificate.