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There is some serious sorcery in the air at this atmospheric spot atop the ruins of a Napoleonic fortress on a rocky bluff overlooking Playa Forti. The setting alone—the wide crescent beach of Playa Forti ringed by cliffs and blue-green seas—is worth a cocktail or two to drink it all in. Indeed, some folks find the kitchen wanting compared with that sparkling Riviera-style tableau. But if your order is simple (grilled fish or steaks) or local (Antillean specialties like garlic shrimp), you'll be fine here—especially if you can snag a seaside table out back, where you can watch daredevil kids leap off the cliffs into the water. Enter beneath a trellis overgrown with tropical flora; the quaintly cluttered dining room, with faded photos and off-kilter paintings, leads to the sunny outdoor patio. The kitchen also prepares lionfish, that invasive scourge of the seas (caught by local "lionfish elimination" divers); the mild-flavored, white-meat fish comes fried with coconut rice and cooked plantains.