Unless you were looking for Cicciolina, you wouldn't know it was here. Diners have to go through a courtyard and then walk upstairs to enter what looks like a Tuscan farmhouse, where bushels of garlic and peppers hang from the wood-beamed ceilings. You'll first see the long wooden bar and a few high bistro tables, where you can order cheese or Peruvian-Mediterranean tapas to pair with wines by the glass. Take a few steps further and you'll find a high-ceilinged dining room, with tall chairs, deep-red walls, and antique mirrors. Though the menu occasionally changes, the food here is some of the most consistent in Cusco. You can count on house-made pastas—you'll see them hanging in the open kitchen—and soulful plates like veal ossobuco. There are small nods to Peru as well, with alpaca fillets and causa, a layered yellow potato casserole. What many don't realize is that Cicciolina also serves breakfast from the ground floor bakery, with hot croissants and poached eggs that blow most hotel buffets out of the water.
- Nicholas Gill