Things To Do in Danau Batur

Kintamani

The area around here is often referred to as simply Kintamani, though Kintamani itself is the rather uninspiring administrative capital; the local market (every 3 days) starts at 5am and is over by 10am. The main road passes through the middle of the town.

In the Crater

The two main villages in the crater are Toya Bungkah and Kedisan, the former having more choice in terms of accommodation and restaurants, driven no doubt by the hot springs in the town. If you need to stay in the crater, then Toya Bungkah would be the more obvious choice.

Toya Bungkah -- Certainly if you have made it in to the crater itself, you will pass through this town, either to reach the start of a trek at the head of the lake, or for the springs. This is the center of many of the trekking agencies and has budget accommodations. Despite the amount of accommodation and a number of seemingly inhabited houses, there are precious few people or even the normal signs of village life here -- the whole village has the feel of a bank holiday when everyone heads off for the day. The hot springs, Air Panas (Rp150,000 including lunch, drink, and towel), can be enjoyed at one of the hotels such as the Puri Bening or at the specialist hot spring and spa resort, Toya Devasya (tel. 0361/438333; www.toyadevasya.com; admission, including welcome juice and light lunch Rp150,000; no credit cards; daily 9am-7pm), with a 20m (66-ft.) swimming pool and several hot spring bathing areas. You do not need to stay here to use the facilities. Various places to stop and have lunch in the town have views across the lake to the far side with the mountains as a backdrop.

Kedisan -- The other village at the base of the crater is Kedisan, which has various options for budget accommodation and also has some lovely vegetable gardens and other plants growing down to the edge of the lake. The scenery is charming but there is not a lot going on; whatever action there may be in the crater, it is likely more happening at Toya Bungkah. Private boats to Trunyan leave from here. C Bali runs a small volunteer and clean-up program here.

Trunyan -- For many, the decision whether to make a trip to Trunyan is divisive. Allow me to settle the dispute: There is no reason whatsoever why you should take a trip across a lake at an inflated price to further the unpleasant and downright offensive way the people here extort tourists. If you make the crossing, you'll encounter a Bali Aga village where the main hook is that they lay their dead wrapped in a cotton shroud under an old tree that gives off a scent that negates the stench of rotting corpses.

The trip includes a 20-minute rickety boat ride from Kedisan for upwards of Rp1,000,000 round-trip. You will be escorted to a cemetery and then, like in the Thriller music video, people will descend on you insinuating that if you do not give a suitable offering you may well not be able to leave. Upon returning to your boat, more people will come out of the woodwork who will tug at your arm or surround you in the hope you will continue to toss all your money their way as you make a bolt for the boat. This is a well-practiced stunt to rip off tourists rather than portray any form of traditional or arcane way of life. Avoid it at all costs.

Oka Agro Tourism (Agro Wisata)

A great place to stop on the road past Tirtha Empul (coming south from Ubud), just as you reach Seribatu, is Oka Agro Tourism, Br. Temen, Susut-Bangli (tel. 08/1338388422; coffee from Rp30,000; no credit cards; daily 8am-7pm). The grandson of the owner has set up a very beautiful coffee and spice plantation that you can wander and learn about growing, harvesting, and roasting coffee. The coffee and cocoa is free to taste but they will charge you Rp30,000 per cup should you wish to try their Luwak coffee. Luwak is made of coffee beans that have been digested and excreted (whole, you will be relieved to know) by a civet and are cleaned, dried, and roasted and then served as normal coffee. The taste is slightly richer, syrupy, and with hints of caramel. It's actually very good and quite a delicacy. If you are offered some as a guest, treat it as an honor. Other spices and fruit grown on the plantation are cinnamon, vanilla, tamarind, avocado, and mangosteen. A small shop sells their harvested and processed goods.