One part of the ducal palace houses one of France's most important national art collections, showcasing exceptional sculpture, ducal kitchens from the mid-1400s (with great chimney pieces) and a collection of European paintings and sculptures from the 14th to the 21st centuries. Take special note of the Salle des Gardes, the banquet hall of the old palace built by Philip the Good (Philippe le Hardi). The tomb of Philip the Bold was created between 1385 and 1411 and is one of the best-preserved in France: a reclining figure rests on a slab of black marble, surrounded by 41 mourners. The courtyard brasserie is perfect for a drink or a bite on fine days (Wed–Mon 8am–8pm).

Just around the corner, at 8 rue Vaillant, don’t miss the Musée Rude (an annex of the Beaux-Arts with the same opening hours), set within the lofty transept of the decommissioned Église St-Étienne. Monumental plaster casts of works by 18th-century Dijon sculptor François Rude line the walls, including the 1792 Marseillaise, the colossal cast used for the Arc de Triomphe in Paris