Things To Do in Dubai

Until recently, Dubai and culture seldom came together in the same sentence. But things continue to change on this front, and today there is more than just the Dubai Museum to give you a feel for Dubai's heritage and culture.

Although there are not so many must-see cultural attractions, Bastakiya is a picture-perfect restoration of an early Arabian neighborhood, and a walk through here will give you a strong sense of Dubai's history. Spend a little time walking or taking a dhow along the creek, the city's lifeline where dhows haul their traditional trade. Be sure to visit the Gold and Spice souks, where business is conducted in the same traditional way that Arabian markets have done for centuries.

Many of Dubai's best art galleries are located in the city's Al Quoz area, an otherwise unappealing industrial zone of factories and warehouses. Yet a dynamic arts community thrives here and there are a number of art spaces worth visiting. Other galleries have opened in major malls and hotels as Dubai tries to build a more culture-conscious image.

Dubai is recognized around the world for its ambitious tourism developments, which have helped turn the tiny emirate into a major travel destination in just a couple of decades. Among its most extraordinary feats, Dubai recently opened the world's tallest building, the Burj Khalifa (previously known as Burj Dubai), Dubai Mall, one of the planet's biggest shopping centers, and the Palm Jumeirah, which is home to Atlantis, The Palm. This may be some of Dubai's last grandiose investments for a while, though - other extravagant projects, such as The World and most of Dubailand, were put on hold or canceled as a result of the 2009 global financial crisis and Dubai's staggering debt. It remains to be seen which of these stalled projects will get another chance.

The attractions already here are meant to impress. The fact that the indoor Ski Dubai was built is an accomplishment in its own right; that it's located in one of the world's hottest deserts almost exceeds imagination. And you can even visit Ski Dubai without straying more than a few feet from the comfort of your own Kempinski ski chalet or the air-conditioned corridors of Mall of the Emirates - just where you want to be in summer when the outside air is hot as Hades and will nearly melt your sunglasses. The obvious alternative is to head to Aquaventure at the Atlantis resort and spend the afternoon whizzing down water slides and dunking your head in tide pools and lagoons, just after spending the morning swimming with dolphins at Dolphin Bay.

Except in the very hottest months, Dubai is a paradise for outdoor sports, particularly for beach activities, golf, and tennis. All of the major beach resorts offer watersports, and a number of excellent parks invite you to walk, jog, rollerblade, or go for a bicycle ride. Camel and horse racing are important aspects of Dubai's heritage, and the emirate today hosts championship races as well as international golf and tennis tournaments. A desert safari is one of the most fun activities you can do outside the city, complete with dune bashing in a 4WD, camel riding, delicious dining under the stars, and Arabian entertainment. Those who have more time may want to consider an overnight camping adventure in the desert to get a more in-depth perspective of Arabic life outside the booming Dubai metropolis.

There's no doubt about it: Dubai is a shopper's paradise. It may not be high culture, but it is high street. One could argue that all of the international fashions offered here are available in London, New York, or Milan, that Dubai actually isn't any less expensive than elsewhere except for during a couple of festival periods, and that if you're really looking for authentic Middle Eastern goods, Dubai is hardly at the center of production, and you're better off elsewhere.

However, there's something about shopping here that goes well beyond this being just a hot consumer market. I consider it more like a city of Shoppers Gone Wild, with an Arabian flair. Sure, this is the result of deft marketing, glitzy malls, duty-free prices, and wide consumer selection, but it's also what you get when millions of people fly in from around the world each year to purchase items from every corner of the globe.

It sometimes seems the whole Dubai culture revolves around spending money. This is just as true for locals and expats as for visitors. Emiratis may be a minority in their own land, but you will see them en masse at the malls, since shopping is a favorite family pastime. Young Emiratis, who are less likely to hang out in the licensed bars of Western hotels, tend to congregate in the malls. In summer, the heavily air-conditioned shopping centers are among the only places anyone wants to go, since it's as hot as an inferno outside. So, the whole population ends up shopping through the summer, particularly during Dubai Summer Surprises, with only a marginal decrease come fall. And then there's Dubai Shopping Festival (DSF), the apex of the year-round shopping frenzy that grows larger year by year, as people pour into Dubai from all directions to fill their bags, get some sun, and return home with more photos but diminished savings.

The diversity of goods at the many fanciful malls, markets, and stores is truly impressive, the result of Dubai's heritage as an expanding center of trade. There are traditional souks selling everything from textiles and carpets to antiques, handicrafts, electronics, food, and spices. There's Dubai's world-famous Gold Souk, where skillful bargaining can lend you an excellent deal. There are mega-malls and shopping centers that resemble amusement parks, world-class department stores selling the latest international fashions, and independent stores and eclectic boutiques offering goods to suit particular tastes. You'll easily find recognizable American, European, and Asian products, but make sure not to overlook what Dubai more uniquely offers: jewelry of Middle Eastern design, local fashion, Arabian perfumes, carpets and tapestries, antiques, shisha pipes, and other regional goods.

Despite the hype, you may not find prices much lower than you would during sales periods in the U.S. and Europe, except during the shopping festivals, when prices really are temptingly low. The obvious savings come from the absence of a sales tax. The best day-to-day bargains are found in the bazaars - if you're a skillful negotiator. Bargaining is common in the souks, but not in the malls or established stores. Don't expect to get a refund when you buy from anywhere other than an established international store, and even in those check the policy carefully, as refunds are often heavily restricted. Most stores in Dubai are open until 10pm (many malls stay open until midnight on Thursday and Friday), and accept all major credit cards; cash is the usual method of payment in the souks. Self-parking at malls is usually free, while valet parking is offered for a fee.

Dubai's traditional shopping areas include Al Riqqa Road, Al Dhiyafa Road, Bani Yas Square, and Karama, which sells mostly pirated and counterfeit goods. Higher-end fashions are available along Jumeirah Beach Road, at the many large shopping centers, and in the duty-free complex at the airport.

Now open next to the world's tallest building, the Dubai Mall at Burj Khalifa has overtaken Mall of the Emirates and become the city's biggest mall and the largest shopping center outside North America. It offers over a thousand retail outlets, 160 eateries, indoor ice-skating rink, giant aquarium, high-tech cinema and theme park, kids' entertainment center, luxury hotel, and amazing water fountain show. In New Dubai, The Walk at Jumeirah Beach Residence (JBR) is quickly becoming the trendiest place in town for outdoor shopping and people-watching.

Finding a good bookstore in Dubai isn't as easy as one might hope, especially for selections in English. Magrudy's is by far the best option for English-speaking visitors and residents, which has thankfully expanded in Dubai and the broader U.A.E..

High quality Persian and other regional carpets are signature items in Dubai, which you can buy more easily, if not more inexpensively, here than in most other major cities. Most of the big shopping centers have stores selling hand-made carpets, as do the more traditional souks. Be sure to do your homework, shop around, inspect the carpets, and bargain before making your final decision, as a nice carpet can be a major investment. The most expensive are generally silk rugs from Iran.

Let's face it, if you're in the Middle East and want nightlife, you come to Dubai. The many nationalities living in and visiting this relatively liberal emirate ensure a diversity that gives the place a unique richness. While the performing arts remain underdeveloped, the bar and clubbing scene puts Dubai on par with other leading resort cities.

The action here revolves around hotels, since with only a few exceptions these are the places that have liquor licenses to serve drinks in restaurants, bars, and clubs. Whereas you're not allowed to drink in many Arab countries, and even in some parts of the U.A.E. such as neighboring Sharjah, non-Muslims are free to drink in Dubai. An evening at a shisha cafe, most of which are unlicensed and do not serve alcohol, is the more traditional nighttime activity for Emiratis.

The expanding after-dark scene includes beach bars, pubs, wine bars, cocktail lounges, and nightclubs. The venues cater to crowds from both East and West. Thursday is the biggest night (the weekend here is Fri-Sat), but there's something going on every evening of the week.

Special promotions often target women, and Tuesdays and Sundays are ladies' nights at many establishments. Bars usually close at 1am or 2am, while clubs are empty before 11pm and stay open until 3am. Door policies and cover charges vary. The drinking age is 21, but some clubs require patrons be at least 25 to enter. Most don't allow beach attire, and many bouncers selectively allow entrance based on appearance. Among the clubs that say "members only," exceptions are often made for groups that include women. Be cautious about showing overt signs of affection in bars and clubs, since doing so runs counter to Emirati values and can land you in legal trouble.

Among the liveliest areas with multiple restaurants, bars, and clubs housed in one location are Madinat Jumeirah, the Pyramids at Wafi City, the Boulevard at Emirates Towers, and Dubai Marine Beach Resort & Spa. The newest hot spot is The Walk at Jumeirah Beach Residence (JBR). The largest hotels and resorts offer multiple entertainment options, as well. Choosing one of these entertainment complexes allows you to visit multiple establishments in a one-stop night on the town. It also minimizes your need to deal with traffic and find parking, which can be difficult on weekend nights.

The best time for live music is during the Dubai International Jazz Festival, which takes place in Dubai Media City for approximately 2 weeks in February. And it's not just traditional jazz - acid jazz, funk jazz, oriental jazz, and all kinds of other styles are part of the lineup, which has been expanding since the jazz fest first started happening in 2003. Visit www.dubaijazzfest.com for information.

Live music is not permitted during Ramadan, when nightclubs remain closed. Still, there's plenty to do at night during this holy month. Restaurants are full starting at sundown, and Ramadan tents stay open until 2 or 3am with people talking, sipping non-alcoholic drinks, and smoking shisha. Some hotel bars do serve alcohol during this period, but only after dark. These bars are typically much quieter than during the rest of the year.

Dubai Drinking Laws -- Dubai's drinking age is 21, and bars and nightclubs regularly check IDs (a passport is best). There's zero tolerance for drinking and driving or disorderly behavior in Dubai, and drivers caught behind the wheel with even a trace of alcohol are sent to jail. If you're going to drink, it's best to do so at establishments in your hotel. If you go elsewhere, take a taxi or go with a designated driver.

Playing Safe -- Women are best not dressing provocatively and going alone to clubs, where in some places they might receive unwanted attention. Call girls work in some Dubai nightclubs, and although prostitution is technically illegal, it's a booming industry in some parts of the city - particularly at bars in lower-end hotels in Deira and Bur Dubai. I've avoided including any clubs here where this is common.

Ladies' Nights -- Tuesday is ladies' night in most of Dubai, with many bars and clubs advertising the tradition with free entry for ladies, discounted or gratis drinks, and occasionally special events. In practice, ladies enjoy free entry and often free drinks every night of the week. Still, a few bars are specially known for their Tuesday ladies' nights, including Scarlett's, The Agency, Boudoir, and Seville's. The idea of course is to get more men and their wallets into the door.

Dubai Cinemas

World-class movie theaters have sprung up in most of Dubai's major malls, such as the 22-screen cinema in Dubai Mall (which has four "platinum movie suites" as well as Dubai's first art cinema, "the Picturehouse"), the 14-screen cinema in Mall of the Emirates (which has two "gold class" theaters staffed with waiter service), and the 21-screen cinema at Ibn Battuta Mall (which has an IMAX theater). Major Hollywood films are shown in English with Arabic subtitles, and are censored. Bollywood films, adored by Dubai's resident Indian population, are shown at Lamcy Plaza and some other theaters around town. Movie information is available in each of the major daily newspapers. The Dubai International Film Festival, which began in 2004, takes place for a week each December and offers a selection of full features, short films, and documentaries from around the globe, including Arabic cinema. For more information, visit www.dubaifilmfest.com.

The Performing Arts

In the midst of such unbelievable growth, it's surprising that Dubai has moved at a snail's pace to establish a performing arts scene. The opening of the Palladium (www.thepalladiumdubai.com), Dubai's major performance venue in Media City, has helped bring more big-name music and entertainment events to the city. There are finally a couple of theaters in town, but performances remain sporadic and rely mainly on touring companies from abroad. Each spring, Cirque du Soleil takes place at the Ibn Battuta Mall.