Things To Do in Dumfries

The 18th-century St. Michael's Church, on St. Michael's Street, is the original parish church of Dumfries. Its foundation is ancient -- the site was sacred before the advent of Christianity, and a Christian church has stood here for more than 1,300 years. The earliest written records date from 1165 to 1214. The church and the churchyard are interesting because of all their connections with Scottish history, continuing through World War II. You can still see the Burns family pew inside.

In St. Michael's Churchyard, a burial place for at least 9 centuries, stands the neo-Grecian Burns Mausoleum. Built of local sandstone and dripping with literary and patriotic nostalgia, the dome-capped mausoleum is one of the most important pilgrimage sites for Burns fans. The poet is buried here along with his wife, Jean Armour, and five of their children. Burns died in 1796, but his remains weren't moved to the tomb until 1815.

The Mid Steeple on High Street was built in 1707 as municipal buildings, a courthouse, and a prison. The old Scots "ell" measure, the equivalent of almost 1m (37 in.), is carved on the front, and a table of distances includes the mileage to Huntingdon, England, which in the 18th century was the destination for Scottish cattle driven south for the London markets. Today the Mid Steeple is used mostly for municipal archives and government functions.

At Whitesands, the street paralleling the Nith's edge, four bridges span the river. The earliest was built by Devorgilla Balliol, widow of John Balliol. Their son, John, was made Scotland's "vassal king" by Edward I of England, the "Hammer of the Scots," who established himself as Scotland's overlord. The bridge (originally with nine arches but now with only six) is still in constant use as a footbridge.

The town's best shopping is along High Street, which is lined with turn-of-the-20th-century facades, and also along nearby Queensberry Street. Alternatives, 73-75 Queensberry St. (tel. 01387/257-467), is an attractive New Age shop selling herbal remedies, artful wind chimes, and gift items, especially jewelry inspired by Celtic designs. At the Edinburgh Woollen Mill, 8 Church Place (tel. 01387/267-351), you'll find men's and women's kilts in dozens of tartan patterns, as well as sweaters, overcoats, hats, and socks -- all at reasonable prices.