Planning a trip to Ecuador

Tips for Student Travelers

Check out the International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC) website (www.istc.org) for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour helpline. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; 132-782 in Australia; 087/1230-0040 in the U.K.; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide. If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which will entitle you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1904; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Sustainable tourism is conscientious travel. It means being careful with the environments you explore and respecting the communities you visit. Two overlapping components of sustainable travel are ecotourism and ethical tourism. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines ecotourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local peoples. TIES suggests that ecotourists follow these principles:

You can find some eco-friendly travel tips and statistics, as well as touring companies and associations -- listed by destination under "Travel Choice" -- at the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org. Also check out Ecotravel.com, which lets you search for sustainable touring companies in several categories (water-based, land-based, spiritually oriented, and so on).

While much of the focus of ecotourism is about reducing impacts on the natural environment, ethical tourism concentrates on ways to preserve and enhance local economies and communities, regardless of location. You can embrace ethical tourism by staying at a locally owned hotel or shopping at a store that employs local workers and sells locally produced goods.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO; www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

Volunteer travel has become increasingly popular among those who want to venture beyond the standard group-tour experience to learn languages, interact with locals, and make a positive difference while on vacation. Volunteer travel usually doesn't require special skills -- just a willingness to work hard -- and programs vary in length from a few days to a number of weeks. Some programs provide free housing and food, but many require volunteers to pay for travel expenses, which can add up quickly.

For general information on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.

Before you commit to a volunteer program, it's important to make sure any money you're giving is truly going back to the local community, and that the work you'll be doing will be a good fit for you. Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a helpful list of questions to ask to determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program.

For information on animal-friendly issues throughout the world, visit Tread Lightly (www.treadlightly.org). For information about the ethics of swimming with dolphins, visit the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society (www.wdcs.org).

General Resources for Green Travel

In addition to the resources listed above, you'll find more information on sustainable travel at the following websites.

Spanish-Language Programs

Ecuador is one of the most popular places to study Spanish in South America. It is also one of the least expensive. A vast majority of the schools are found in Quito, although many have sister institutions in other cities and tourist towns around the country, such as Baños, Manta, Cuenca, and Otavalo.

If you are just looking to brush up on your existing knowledge of the language or to learn the basics to get by during your stay, most schools are happy to tailor their programs according to your requirements, offering courses ranging in length from 1 week to a year, from 2 to 8 hours a day. The majority of Spanish institutes also offer programs combining home-stays with local Ecuadorean families, as well as volunteer placements, workplace internships, cultural activities, and/or excursions to Ecuador's coastal, Amazon, and Andean regions included with the language tuition. The home-stays include a private room and either two or three meals daily taken with the family. One-on-one tuition or group classes, always with native speakers, cost approximately $6 to $12 (£4-£8) an hour depending on the institution and the specific program.

Qualifications obtained on completion of courses range from diplomas accredited by the Ecuadorean Ministry of Education and Culture to those recognized on an international level and accredited by Spain's Instituto Cervantes. Some of the schools have reciprocal relationships with U.S. and European universities, so you can even arrange for college credit.

Listed below are some of the better-established Spanish-language institutes in Quito, many of which have sister-schools in other popular tourist destinations. Study programs in such destinations are usually organized through their Quito offices. Guayaquil has very few Spanish institutes, primarily because most tourists head for Quito, and the castellano spoken in Guayaquil is generally more difficult to understand, particularly for the beginner.

The popular Amazonas Spanish School, Jorge Washington 718 and Avenida Amazonas, Edificio Rocaforte, Quito (tel. 02/2504-654; www.eduamazonas.com), was established in 1989. This academy boasts that all of its teachers have a minimum of 6 to 7 years of teaching experience. They emphasize language study combined with travel, offering home-stays, tours, and volunteer programs. They also offer Spanish classes in various popular destinations, including Quito, the Galápagos, El Oriente, and on the coast.

Beraca Spanish School, Av. Amazonas 11-14 and Pinto, 2nd floor; in Quito's New Town; and García Moreno 858, no. 3, between Sucre and Espejo, in Quito's Old Town (tel. 02/2906-642; www.beraca.net), has been operating since 1993. They provide the option of studying at either of their well-located campuses. Home-stays with Ecuadorean families, or in private apartments, can also be arranged.

Bipo & Toni's, Carrión E8-183 and Leonidas Plaza, Quito (tel. 02/2556-614 or 02/2500-732; www.bipo.net), is a Spanish academy with small-group and private classes. They also offer organized excursions, Latin dance classes, volunteer work opportunities, and home-stays. The institute has a good library, a garden with BBQ, and its own restaurant-bar, providing a friendly and interactive environment for its students.

Cristóbal Colón Spanish School, Colón 2088 and Versalles, Quito (tel. 02/2506-508; www.colonspanishschool.com), is one of Quito's most popular modern Spanish schools. They offer primarily one-to-one classes, but they also have organized excursions, volunteer work opportunities, and the option of studying in several sister schools located around the country. Classes usually last 4 hours, but more flexible schedules can be arranged.

Galápagos Spanish School, Av. Amazonas 884 and Wilson, Quito (tel. 02/2565-213; www.galapagos.edu.ec), offers one-on-one instruction through 10 levels, or personalized courses, with the option of completing the Ministry's diploma. Private classes, local home-stays, and a variety of optional tours and activities are available.

Instituto Superior de Español, Darquea Terán 1650 and Avenida 10 de Agosto, Quito (tel. 02/2223-242; www.instituto-superior.net), has been in business since 1988 and offers flexible Spanish courses in six locations around the country, including Quito, Otavalo, and the Galápagos. They emphasize extracurricular activities through an extensive program of excursions and events. Specialized courses in business Spanish and Latin American literature and history are also on the agenda.

Quito Spanish Institute, 9 de Octubre N27-09 and Avenida Orellana, Quito (tel. 02/2550-377; www.quitospanish.com), offers one-on-one or group classes that can be combined with home-stays and volunteer placements. The institute also runs internship programs and organizes excursions. The school is extremely flexible and willing to adapt courses to students' needs.

Simón Bolívar, Mariscal Foch E9-920 and Avenida 6 de Diciembre, Quito (tel. 02/2234-708; www.simon-bolivar.com), advertises that it is rated as "one of Ecuador's top schools" by members of the reputable South American Explorers Club. They also claim to carbon-offset their entire operations. They offer home-stays and volunteer placements, a "Discover Ecuador" program, and various excursions. The institute also has schools in Cuenca, in El Oriente, and along the Pacific coast.

Getting There

By Plane

There are two international airports in Ecuador. All flights into Quito land at the Aeropuerto Internacional Mariscal Sucre (tel. 02/2430-555; www.quitoairport.com; airport code: UIO). Most international flights also touch down in Guayaquil's José Joaquín de Olmedo International Airport (tel. 04/2169-209; airport code GYE). If you plan to go to the Galápagos immediately after you arrive in Ecuador, it's best to fly into Guayaquil. All international passengers leaving by air from Ecuador must pay a $38 (£19) departure tax.

New Quito Airport -- Construction is under way at the sprawling new Quito airport, located 24km (15 miles) east of the current facility. The new airport will be 15 times larger, and is expected to open in 2009. Taxi fares to many hotels will likely double, and the trip to town will take about 40 to 50 minutes.

From North America -- American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300 in the U.S. and Canada, or 02/2995-000 in Ecuador; www.aa.com) has one daily direct flight from Miami. Continental Airlines (tel. 800/231-0856 in the U.S. and Canada, or 02/2250-905 in Ecuador; www.continental.com) has one daily direct flight from Houston and another from Newark. Delta (tel. 800/241-4141 in the U.S. and Canada, or 1800/101-060 inside Ecuador; www.delta.com) has daily direct flights from Atlanta. And LAN Chile/LAN Ecuador (tel. 866/435-9526 in the U.S. and Canada, or 1800/526-328 in Ecuador; www.lanchile.com) offers direct service from JFK in New York to Guayaquil as well as direct service from Miami to Quito. Taca (tel. 800/400-8222 in the U.S. and Canada, or 1800/008-222 in Ecuador; www.grupotaca.com) has regular service to Ecuador from North America, via El Salvador or Costa Rica, while Copa Airlines (tel. 800/359-2672 in the U.S. and Canada; 02/2273-082 in Ecuador; www.copaair.com) offers daily flights from both Los Angeles and Miami to Ecuador with a quick stop in Panama City. Presently, there are no direct flights from Canada to Ecuador, so Canadians have to take a connecting flight via the United States.

From the U.K. -- There are no direct flights from the United Kingdom to Ecuador. British travelers can fly to the United States (Atlanta, Miami, Houston, or New York) and then hook up with a direct flight. Iberia (tel. 0845/2601-2854; www.iberia.com) and LAN Chile/LAN Ecuador both offer daily, nonstop service between Madrid and Ecuador; convenient daily connections are available from London and a plethora of other European cities including Dublin, Paris, and Berlin. KLM (tel. 08705/2074-074; www.klmuk.co.uk) offers service from many cities in England to both Guayaquil and Quito via Amsterdam and Bonaire.

From Australia & New Zealand -- To get to Ecuador from Australia or New Zealand, you'll first have to fly to Los Angeles, and then on to Miami or Houston, where you can connect with an American Airlines, Continental, or LAN Chile/LAN Ecuador flight to Ecuador.

Getting into Town from the Airport -- It's easy and inexpensive to get from both of the international airports to their respective downtown areas.

All the major rental-car agencies operating in the country have desks at these airports.

By Car

It's possible, but very difficult and impractical, to travel to Ecuador by car. For all intents and purposes, this is not an option for travelers.

By Bus

It is possible to travel by bus to Ecuador from Peru. (I don't recommend traveling from Colombia due to kidnapping incidents near the border.) From Peru, the most popular border crossing is from Tumbes to Huaquillas in Ecuador.

Tips for Women Travelers

As is common throughout Latin America, Ecuador can be considered a typically "macho" nation. Misogyny and violence against women, while not rampant, are part of the social fabric. In general, the most prominent expression of this machismo is a steady stream of come-ons and catcalls. Ignoring them is often the best tactic. Still, women should be careful walking alone at night in big cities, and throughout the country.

Tips for Families

If you have enough trouble getting your kids out of the house in the morning, dragging them thousands of miles away may seem like an insurmountable challenge. But family travel can be immensely rewarding, giving you new ways of seeing the world through the eyes of children.

Hotels in Ecuador often give discounts for children under 12, and children under 3 or 4 are usually allowed to stay for free. This varies according to the hotel; but in general, don't assume that your kids can stay in your room for free.

Hotels offering regular, dependable babysitting service are few and far between. If you will need babysitting, make sure that your hotel offers it, and be sure to ask whether the babysitters are bilingual. In most cases, they are not. This is usually not a problem with infants and toddlers, but it can cause problems with older children.

All children, no matter how young, will need a valid passport to enter Ecuador. By law, minors under 18 need no special permission to enter or leave Ecuador. However, I recommend that adults traveling with children who are not their own carry documented permission from the parent or guardian of record, and contact a local Ecuadorean embassy or consulate before traveling.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

A valid passport is required to enter and depart Ecuador. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "Foreign Entry Requirement" Web page of the U.S. Department of State at http://travel.state.gov.

Visas

Ecuadorean visas are not required for citizens of the United States, the United Kingdom, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, France, Germany, and Switzerland. Upon entry, you will automatically be granted permission to stay for up to 90 days. Technically, to enter the country you need a passport that is valid for more than 6 months beyond the date of entry, a return ticket, and proof of how you plan to support yourself while you're in Ecuador, but I've never seen a Customs official ask for the last two requirements. If you plan on spending more than 90 days here, you will need to apply for a visa at your local embassy. Requirements include a passport valid for more than 6 months, a police certificate with criminal record from the state or province in which you currently live, a medical certificate, a return ticket, and two photographs.

Medical Requirements

No specific shots or vaccines are necessary for travelers to Ecuador, although vaccinations against Hepatitis A are always a good idea. In addition, some countries, including Costa Rica, require proof of a yellow fever vaccine for tourists who have visited Ecuador.

Ecuadorean Embassy Locations

In Australia: 6 Pindari Crescent, O'Malley, ACT 2606 (tel. 628/64021; fax 628/61231)

In Canada: 50 O'Connor St., Ste. 316, Ottawa, ON K1P 6L2 (tel. 613/563-8206; fax 613/235-5776)

In the U.K.: 3 Hans Crescent, Knightsbridge, London, SW1X 0LS (tel. 020/7584-1367; fax 020/7823-9701)

In the U.S.: 2535 15th St. NW, Washington, DC 20009 (tel. 202/234-7200; fax 202/667-3482)

Customs

What You Can Bring into Ecuador -- Visitors to Ecuador are legally permitted to bring in up to $1,250 worth of items for personal use, including cameras, portable typewriters, video cameras and accessories, tape recorders, personal computers, and CD players. You can also bring in up to 2 liters of alcoholic beverages and 200 cigarettes (1 carton).

What You Can Take Home from Ecuador -- It is illegal to bring out any pre-Columbian artifact from Ecuador, whether you bought it, you discovered it, or it was given to you.

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Tips on Accommodations

You'll find a whole range of accommodations in Ecuador. Still, there are very few truly high-end luxury hotels and resorts. Most are in Quito or Guayaquil, and are geared toward business travelers.

The country's strong suit is elegant, midrange boutique hotels, many housed in old colonial-era homes or haciendas. The antique furnishings and cozy rooms will make you feel as though you are an Ecuadorean aristocrat living in the 18th century. In fact, throughout the Andean highlands, you will find a string of these lovely converted haciendas. Some are in buildings over 200 years old.

On the other end of the spectrum are jungle lodges, usually built in the style typical to the Amazon basin (thatched roofs, bamboo walls, and so on). Accommodations are usually basic; the more expensive ones, such as Kapawi Ecolodge & Reserve and Napo Wildlife Center, have private bathrooms, but hot showers are a rarity.

In general, inexpensive accommodations are easy to find. In Quito, you can rent a clean room, with private bathroom and television, for little more than $20 (£13); in smaller towns, you can find a bed for as little as $12 (£8) a night.

In the Galápagos, most visitors spend their nights sleeping on ships. The general rule is that if you don't pay a lot, you won't get a lot. The least expensive boats have dorm-style common sleeping rooms and one shower for everyone onboard.

One good website and Ecuadorean travel operator, Exclusive Hotels & Haciendas of Ecuador (www.exclusivehotelshaciendasecuador.com), functions as a one-stop booking agent for various high-end boutique hotels and haciendas around the country.

Tip: If you're traveling on a budget and staying in some of the less expensive hotels, one item you're likely to want to bring with you is a towel. Your hotel might not provide one, and even if it does, it might be awfully thin.

Throughout this book, I've separated hotel listings into several broad categories: Very Expensive, $200 (£133) and up; Expensive, $100 to $200 (£67-£133); Moderate, $50 to $100 (£33-£67); and Inexpensive, under $50 (£33) double.

Frommer's uses a zero- to three-star-rating system. A truly special bed-and-breakfast, run with style and aplomb, may get two or three stars, even though the rooms do not have televisions or air-conditioning. Likewise, a large resort with a host of modern amenities may receive one or no stars. Every hotel listed is in some way recommended. This guide is selective, and I've done my best to list the best options in each price range and each region.

Heads-Up -- When hotels quote prices, they rarely include the hefty tax. Unless otherwise noted, expect to pay an additional 22% in taxes on the prices quoted by hotels and listed throughout this guide.

When to Go

Peak Season

The peak seasons for travelers to Ecuador last from mid-June to early September and from late December through early January, because most American and European visitors have vacation time during these months. Cruises in the Galápagos are booked solid during these times of year. But since Ecuador is hardly Disney World, you'll always be able to find a room (or a berth on a ship), and the country never feels overcrowded. Ecuador is great throughout the year, so whenever you visit, you won't be disappointed.

Climate

There are four distinct geographical zones in Ecuador, all subject to their own weather patterns.

In the Galápagos, from June through September the air and water are chilly and the winds can be a bit rough. October through May, the air and water temperatures are warmer, but you can expect periodic light rain almost daily.

On the coast, the rainy season lasts from December through May; this season is marked by hot weather and high humidity. The cooler air temperature from June through September attracts whales and dolphins to the waters off the coast. In an odd anomaly, it's actually much sunnier during the rainy season, with a pattern of sunny mornings and early afternoons, followed by distinct and heavy showers or storms in the late afternoons. The dry season is often characterized by dense and heavy overcast skies that feel as if they want to let loose, but never do.

In Quito and the highlands, the weather is coolest June through September (the dry season), but it's only a few degrees colder than during the rest of the year. Keep in mind that although Quito is practically on the Equator, the temperature can get quite cool because it's at such a high altitude. The city has an average high of 19°C (66°F) and an average low of 10°C (50°F). Throughout the rest of the highlands, the temperature is similarly consistent, with average highs and lows mostly determined by the altitude.

In the rainforests and lowlands of El Oriente it rains year-round, but the rain is especially hard from late December through April. The driest period is October through December. The temperature in the jungle can reach 27° to 32°C (81°-90°F) during the day; it's a bit cooler at night.

Holidays

Official holidays in Ecuador include New Year's Day (Jan 1), Easter, Labor Day (May 1), Simón Bolívar Day (July 24), National Independence Day (Aug 10), Guayaquil Independence Day (Oct 9), All Souls' Day (Nov 2), Cuenca Independence Day (Nov 3), and Christmas Day (Dec 25). The country also closes down on some unofficial holidays, including Carnaval (Mon and Tues prior to Ash Wednesday), Battle of Pichincha (May 24), Christmas Eve (Dec 24), and New Year's Eve (Dec 31). The foundation of Quito (Dec 6) is observed as a holiday only in Quito.

Getting Around

Because Ecuador is one of the smallest countries in South America, traveling from one end to the other is not too difficult. The bus routes are comprehensive. The roads, however, can be a bit rough, and the buses are often hot and crowded. If you're short on time, I recommend flying, which is cheap and efficient. If you're traveling only a short distance, though, say from Quito to Otavalo (around 2 hr.) or Riobamba (under 4 hr.), then a bus, shuttle, rental car, or car and driver may be your best bet.

By Plane

Most of Ecuador's major cities and tourist destinations are serviced by regular and reliable commuter air traffic. In some places, remote destinations can best be reached by charter flights, organized by the lodges themselves.

Aerogal (tel. 1800/2376-425 toll-free nationwide; www.aerogal.com.ec), Icaro (tel. 1800/883-567 toll-free nationwide; www.icaro.aero), and Tame (tel. 02/3977-100; www.tame.com.ec), are the main commuter airlines.

With the exception of the Galápagos, which is quite expensive, most flights cost between $50 and $90 (£33-£60) for a one-way fare.

By Bus

In Ecuador, all roads lead to Quito. From Quito, you can find a bus to every corner of the country, but don't expect to get anywhere quickly. Locals seldom board buses at the actual bus terminals. Instead, buses leave the station empty, and then drive very slowly through the outskirts of town, picking up passengers along the way. This adds considerable time onto most bus rides. Still, for relatively short distances, buses are your best and cheapest option. The journeys between Quito and Riobamba, Baños, Otavalo, and Cotopaxi are best served by buses, which leave frequently for these destinations. The road between Cuenca and Guayaquil is also a popular bus route.

By Car

In general, I don't recommend renting a car in Ecuador. For the most part, the roads are in bad condition; and because signs are nonexistent, it's very easy to get lost. For short-distance journeys, it's much more economical to take a bus, or even a taxi.

Nevertheless, if you're an adventurous type and you want to see the country from the privacy of your own car, you can certainly get a rental.

Budget (tel. 02/3300-979; www.budget-ec.com) and Hertz (tel. 02/2254-257; www.hertz.com) are the main rental-car agencies, with offices at both major international airports. At press time, Localiza was temporarily closed -- and may still be by the time you read this.

Because the roads are so poorly maintained, I recommend that you rent a 4WD, which are offered by all the agencies listed above. Rates run between $45 and $150 (£30-£100) per day, with unlimited mileage and insurance, depending upon the type of vehicle you rent.

One very interesting option is to use Rent 4WD.com (tel. 02/2544-719; www.rent-4wd.com), which gets you a large, modern four-wheel drive vehicle, unlimited gas and mileage, and driver, for just $150 (£100) per day. They even cover the driver's lodging expenses.

Road Conditions -- Most of the major highways in Ecuador are in pretty decent shape. But once you venture off the major thoroughfares, the situation deteriorates dramatically.

Even the major highways and tourist destinations are only sporadically marked with up-to-date signs and markers. And once you get off the beaten path, you may not encounter any signs or indications as you pass intersection after intersection.

Always keep an eye out for the sudden appearance of a pedestrian, bicycle rider, dog, or cow, even on major highways. It's best to avoid driving at night, as very few roads or highways are illuminated.

Maps -- Car-rental agencies and the Ministry of Tourism information centers at the airport and in downtown Quito have adequate road maps.

Driving Rules -- A current foreign driver's license is valid for the length of your 90-day tourist visa. Seatbelts are required for the driver and front-seat passengers.

Official driving rules are often ignored. Drivers seldom use turn signals or obey posted speed limits. Transit police are a rarity, but they will bust you for speeding. So keep to the speed limit (usually 60-90kmph/37-56 mph) if you don't want to get pulled over. Never pay money directly to a police officer who stops you for any traffic violation. Speeding and traffic tickets are usually charged to your credit card by your rental-car company.

Breakdowns -- Emergency services, both vehicular and medical, are extremely limited once you get far from Quito, Guayaquil, or any of the major tourist destinations. If you are a AAA member, contact the local affiliate Aneta (tel. 1800/556-677; www.aneta.org.ec), which can provide free towing, as well as other emergency services.

If you're involved in a breakdown or accident, you should contact the police. Throughout Ecuador, you can reach the police by dialing tel. 101 in an emergency. The tourist police may be of help, and are more likely to have someone on hand who speaks English. In Quito, the number for the tourist police is tel. 02/2543-983.

If your car breaks down and you're unable to get well off the road, check to see whether there are reflecting triangles in the trunk. If there are, place them as a warning for approaching traffic, arranged in a wedge that starts at the shoulder about 30m (98 ft.) back and angle gradually toward your car. If your car has no triangles, try to create a similar warning marker using a pile of leaves or branches. Finally, although not rampant, there have been reports of folks being robbed by seemingly friendly good Samaritans who stop to feign assistance.

Car-Rental Tips -- Although it's preferable to use the coverage provided by your home auto-insurance policy or credit card, check carefully to see if the coverage really holds in Ecuador. Many policies exclude 4WD vehicles and off-road driving -- much of Ecuador can, in fact, be considered off-road. It's possible at some car-rental agencies to waive the insurance charges, but you will have to pay all damages before leaving the country if you're in an accident. If you do take the insurance, you can expect a deductible of $750 to $2,100 (£500-£1,400). At some agencies, you can buy additional insurance to lower the deductible. To rent a car in Ecuador, you must be at least 21 years old and have a valid driver's license and a major credit card in your name.

Calendar of Events

Most of the events listed below are more traditions than organized events -- there's not, for instance, a Día de los Muertos PR Committee that readily dispenses information. In many cases, I've given a more detailed description of the events listed in the appropriate destination. Beyond that, you can contact the Ecuadorean Tourism Ministry (tel. 02/2507-559; www.vivecuador.com). Your best bet is probably to contact hotels or tour agencies in the destination where the event or festivities take place.

February

Carnaval (Carnival), nationwide. Public concerts, parades, city fairs, and heavy drinking are all part of the festivities. In many cities, water, egg, and/or flour fights are part of the tradition. The city of Guaranda is particularly famous for its Carnaval celebrations, as are Esmeraldas and Ambato. During the week or so just before the start of Lent.

April

Holy Week, nationwide. Religious processions are held in cities and towns throughout the country. Quito's Good Friday procession through Old Town is especially large and ornate, with large floats, thick clouds of incense, and numerous devotees, some of whom quite vigorously flagellate themselves. Week before Easter.

June

Inti Raymi, countrywide. The indigenous peoples of South America have always revered the sun. The Inca have left intact their celebration of the summer solstice, or Inti Raymi. It is celebrated nationwide, but especially throughout the northern Sierra, with Otavalo having the most famous celebrations. In Otavalo, Inti Raymi festivities blend into and overlap with the Catholic celebration of San Juan de Batista (St. John the Baptist) on June 24.

July

Fiestas de Guayaquil, Guayaquil. The country's largest city throws a large party for itself each July. Wild street parties, concerts, fireworks, and overall festivities last for at least a week on and around the official holiday, although in many ways, this party is merely a prelude to the October celebrations of the city's Independence Day. July 26.

September

Fiestas de Mama Negra, Latacunga. This generally sleepy central Sierra city comes alive with a vengeance during its celebrations of the Virgen de la Merced (Virgin of Mercy), better known locally as Mama Negra (Black Mama). Each year, Ecuadoreans flock to Latacunga and fill its streets with dancing and parades, fireworks and carnival rides. The festivities are unique in their mixing of indigenous, Spanish, and even African influences. September 23 and 24.

October

Independencia de Guayaquil (Guayaquil Independence Day), Guayaquil. Some say these are the largest civic parties in the country. Quiteños would probably disagree, but suffice it to say that Ecuador's largest city throws an appropriately large party to celebrate its independence day. Festivities include parades, rodeos, fireworks, and street parties, for several days on either side of the actual date of October 9.

November

Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead), countrywide. Ecuadoreans honor their dead with flowers and joyful remembrances. Many head to cemeteries, but the vibe is far from somber. November 2.

December

Fiestas de Quito, Quito. The capital city pulls out all the stops in early December to commemorate the city's founding. Celebrations last through the first and most of the second week of December. Concerts and street fairs can be found all over the city. Bullfights are held in the Plaza de Toros, with famous bullfighters coming from Spain and Mexico. A general air of celebration pervades the entire city. December 6 is the official date.

Christmas Eve, Cuenca. Obviously, the entire country celebrates Christmas, but the colonial city of Cuenca is famous for its Christmas Eve tradition of holding elaborate parades, with nativity scenes and other religious iconography on massive floats. December 24.

Años Viejos (Old Years), countrywide. In addition to the general debauchery and celebration, New Year's Eve is marked by an interesting tradition throughout Ecuador: Puppets and effigies symbolizing all that is bad or negative from the previous year are constructed, using old rags, sawdust, gunpowder, and fireworks as stuffing. Throughout the night, they sit on doorways and sidewalks. They are set on fire at the stroke of midnight, as part of the celebrations. December 31.

Staying Healthy

Staying Healthy

Staying healthy on a trip to Ecuador is predominantly a matter of being cautious about what you eat and drink, and using common sense. Know your physical limits, and don't overexert yourself in the ocean, on hikes, or in athletic activities. Many people need a day or two to acclimate to higher altitudes.

Before You Go -- No specific shots or vaccines are necessary before traveling to Ecuador, although vaccinations against Hepatitis A are always a good idea.

General Availability of Health Care -- In general, the health care system in Ecuador is pretty good and can handle most emergencies and common illnesses.

Although pharmacies are well stocked and widespread, you should still carry with you sufficient supplies of any prescription medicines you may need. Most over-the-counter remedies commonly available at home should be relatively available in all but the most remote destinations around Ecuador, although you may have some trouble figuring out what the local equivalent is.

Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry prescription medications in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Also bring along copies of your prescriptions in case you lose your pills or run out. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name. Don't forget an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. For such conditions as epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert identification tag (tel. 888/633-4298; www.medicalert.org), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert's 24-hour hot line.

Common Ailments

Bees, Snakes & Bugs -- Although Ecuador has Africanized bees (the notorious "killer bees" of fact and fable), scorpions, spiders, and several species of venomous snakes, your chances of being bitten are extremely minimal, especially if you refrain from sticking your hands into hives or under rocks in the forest. If you know that you're allergic to bee stings, consult your doctor before traveling.

Snake sightings, much less snakebites, are very rare. Moreover, the majority of snakes in Ecuador are nonpoisonous. If you do encounter a snake, stay calm, don't make any sudden movements, and don't try to handle it. As recommended above, avoid sticking your hand under rocks, branches, and fallen trees.

Scorpions, black widow spiders, tarantulas, bullet ants, and other biting insects can all be found in Ecuador. In general, they are not nearly the danger or nuisance most visitors fear. Watch where you stick your hands, and shake out your clothes and shoes before putting them on to avoid any unpleasant and painful surprises.

Dietary Red Flags -- Travelers to Ecuador should be very careful about contracting food-borne illnesses. Always drink bottled water. Avoid beverages with ice unless you are sure that the water for the ice has been previously boiled. Be very careful about eating food purchased from street vendors. Some travelers swear by taking supplements such as super bromelain, which helps aid in the digestion of parasites; consult your doctor to find out whether this is a good option for you. In the event you experience any intestinal woe, staying well hydrated is the most important step. Be sure to drink plenty of bottled water, as well as some electrolyte-enhanced sports drinks, if possible.

High-Altitude Hazards -- Of concern in areas of high altitude is altitude sickness. Common symptoms include headaches, nausea, sleeplessness, and a tendency to tire easily. The most common remedies include taking it easy, abstaining from alcohol, and drinking lots of bottled water. To help alleviate these symptoms, you can also take the drug acetazolamide (Diamox); consult your doctor for more information.

Malaria -- Because mosquitoes can't live at high altitudes, malaria is not a risk in Quito, Cuenca, Baños, or Otavalo. Although located at sea level, there's no malaria risk in the Galápagos, either. But because there is a small risk of malaria for travelers who plan on spending time in the jungle areas of El Oriente or the Pacific lowlands, the CDC recommends that you protect yourself by taking the drugs mefloquine, doxycycline, or Malarone. However, I'm not a huge fan of malaria vaccinations. Insect repellent and protective clothing are probably your best protection against malaria and other mosquito-borne illnesses.

Tropical Sun -- Limit your exposure to the sun, especially during the first few days of your trip and, thereafter, from 11am to 2pm. Use a sunscreen with a high protection factor, and apply it liberally. Remember that children need more protection than adults. Don't be deceived by cool weather or cloud cover. I've been foolish enough to think I didn't need sunscreen on a severely overcast day, and paid the price with a painful sunburn.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away From Home

The best and most modern hospitals can be found in Quito and Guayaquil. Most other major cities and towns will have a hospital or two. Your home country's embassy or consulate can provide a list of area doctors who speak English. If you get sick, consider asking your hotel staff or concierge to recommend a local doctor -- even his or her own.

Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. You may have to pay all medical costs up front and be reimbursed later. Medicare and Medicaid do not provide coverage for medical costs outside the U.S. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance.

Tips for Single Travelers

Many people prefer traveling alone. Unfortunately, the solo traveler is often forced to pay a premium price for the privilege of sleeping alone. On package vacations, single travelers are often hit with a "single supplement" to the base price. To avoid it, you can agree to room with other single travelers on the trip, or you can find a compatible roommate before you go from one of the many roommate locator agencies.

GAP Adventures (tel. 800/708-7761 in North America, or 44/870-999-0144 in the United Kingdom; www.gapadventures.com) is an adventure-tour company with a good range of regular and varied tours in Ecuador. As a policy, they do not charge a single supplement and will try to pair a single traveler with a compatible roommate.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Those over age 65 are eligible for various discounts in Ecuador, including reduced admissions to museums, some national parks, movies, and public transport. Be sure to ask before paying, if this applies to you.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) arranges tour and study programs for those ages 55 and over (and a spouse or companion of any age) in the U.S. and in more than 80 countries around the world, including Ecuador. ElderTreks (tel. 800/741-7956; www.eldertreks.com) offers small-group tours to off-the-beaten-path or adventure-travel locations, restricted to travelers 50 and older. ElderTreks usually has at least one trip per year touching down in mainland Ecuador or cruising the Galápagos.

Staying Safe

Robberies and pickpocketing are the greatest problem facing most tourists to Ecuador. Crowded markets, public buses, and busy urban areas are the prime haunts of criminals and pickpockets. Never carry a lot of cash or wear very valuable jewelry. Men should avoid having a wallet in their back pants pocket. A woman should keep a tight grip on her purse. (Keep it tucked under your arm.) Thieves also target gold chains, cameras and video cameras, prominent jewelry, and nice sunglasses. Be sure not to leave valuables exposed or unattended in your hotel room.

Rental cars generally stick out, and they are easily spotted by thieves. Don't ever leave anything of value in a car parked on the street. Also be wary of solicitous strangers who stop to help you change a tire or bring you to a service station. Although most are truly good Samaritans, there have been reports of thieves preying on roadside breakdowns. Public intercity buses are also frequent targets of stealthy thieves. Never check your bags into the hold of a bus if you can avoid it. If this can't be avoided, when the bus makes a stop, keep your eye on what leaves the hold. If you put your bags in an overhead rack, be sure you can see the bags at all times. Try not to fall asleep during the trip.

The Ecuadorean indigenous people are very uneasy about having their picture taken. Many, in the more touristy areas, have parlayed this into a means of earning a few dollars, by charging to have their picture taken. In the more remote and rural areas, a rude or disrespectful foreign shutterbug can earn the strong and sometimes vocal disdain of the local population. Always ask permission before taking photographs of people.

Political gatherings to protest current economic and social conditions are not uncommon. The most common form of this is the blockading of roads and highways. There's really little you can do to avoid this, though a fair amount of patience and some compassion will ease the bother and lower your stress levels. Many of these protests and blockades are announced in advance in the newspapers. If you have an important flight or connection, and you have a long ride to the airport, ask your hotel to check on any alerts, and be sure to leave plenty of time for your drive to the airport.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling. There are more options and resources out there than ever before. Still, Ecuador is severely behind the times in making structural changes to address the needs of its own citizens with disabilities -- not to mention visitors with disabilities. In most cities, sidewalks are narrow, crowded, and uneven. Few hotels offer wheelchair-accessible accommodations, and there are no public buses equipped to handle those in wheelchairs. The Quito trolley system can handle wheelchair passengers, although its near constant overcrowding makes this better in theory than in practice. A few of the higher-end large hotels in Quito and Guayaquil have specific wheelchair-accessible rooms and bathrooms.

Fast Facts

American Express -- American Express has two travel offices in Ecuador -- one in Quito, the other in Guayaquil -- both run by Global Tours (www.globaltour.com.ec). In Quito, the office is located on Av. República El Salvador 309 and Calle Suiza (tel. 02/2265-222). In Guayaquil, the office is located in the Edificio Las Cámaras, on Avenida Francisco de Orellana and Alcivar (tel. 04/2680-450).

Area Codes -- Cities and provinces across Ecuador have single-digit area codes (Pichincha province and Quito, 2; Guayas province and Guayaquil, 4; Azay province and Cuenca 7; and so on). In some cases, a single area code will cover several provinces. If you are calling from one area code to another, you must dial "0" before the area code, however neither the "0" nor the area code is used if calling within the area. To call a cellphone, you must first dial "09" or "08" (depending upon the cellphone provider) and then the seven-digit number.

ATM Networks/Cashpoints -- Ecuador has a well-developed network of ATMs. Just about every bank branch in the country, particularly in the major cities, towns, and tourist destinations, has an ATM or two. While many of Ecuador's ATMs will work fine with five- and six-digit PINs, some will only accept four-digit PINs. Before traveling, it is wise to change your PIN to avoid any unexpected hassles in getting access to quick cash.

Business Hours -- In general, business hours are weekdays from 9am to 1pm and 2:30 or 3 to 6:30pm. In Quito and Guayaquil, most banks stay open all day from about 9am to 5pm, but some still close in the middle of the day, so it's best to take care of your banking needs early in the morning. Most banks, museums, and stores are open on Saturday from 10am to noon. Everything closes down on Sunday.

Drinking Laws -- The legal drinking age is 18, although it's almost never enforced. At discos, however, you often need to show a picture ID for admittance. Everything from beer to hard spirits is sold in specific liquor stores as well as at most supermarkets and even convenience stores.

Drugstores -- A drugstore or pharmacy is called a farmacia in Spanish. Drugstores are quite common throughout the country. Those at hospitals and major clinics are often open 24 hours a day. Fybeca has the largest chain of pharmacies in Ecuador. You can call Fybeca's toll-free line (tel. 1800/2392-322) 24 hours a day for home delivery in most major cities in the country.

Electricity -- The majority of outlets in Ecuador are standard U.S.-style two- and three-prong electric outlets with 110-120V AC (60 Hz) current.

Embassies & Consulates -- The embassy of the United States in Quito is at the corner of Avenida 12 de Octubre and Avenida Patria, across from the Casa de la Cultura (tel. 02/2562-890, ext. 480); there is a U.S. Consulate in Guayaquil at Avenida 9 de Octubre and García Moreno (tel. 04/2323-570)

The embassy of Canada in Quito is at Av. Amazonas and UNP 4153, Edificio Eurocenter, 3rd floor (tel. 02/2455-499); the Canadian Consulate in Guayaquil is at Avenida Juan Tanca Marengo and Orrantea (tel. 04/2296-837).

The embassy of the United Kingdom in Quito is at Avenida Naciones Unidas and República de El Salvador, Edificio Citiplaza, 14th floor (tel. 02/2970-800); the U.K. Consulate in Guayaquil is at General Córdova 623 and Padre Solano (tel. 04/2560-400).

There is no Australian Embassy in Ecuador, but there is an Australian Honorary Consul (tel. 04/6017-529) in Guayaquil, on Rocafuerte 520 in the Fundación Leonidas Ortega Building.

Emergencies -- In an emergency, call tel. 911. Alternately you can dial tel. 101 for the police only.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- Gasoline, or gasolina in Spanish, is sold as extra and super, both of which are unleaded. Super is just higher octane. Diesel is available at almost every gas station as well. Most rental cars run on premium, but always ask your rental agent what type of gas your car takes. Gas stations are widely available along the highways, and in all major cities, towns, and tourist destinations. But make sure to have a full tank when you're heading to a remote destination. At press time a gallon of super costs around $2.10 (£1.40). Note that gas in Ecuador is sold by the gallon.

Holidays -- Official holidays in Ecuador include New Year's Day (Jan 1), Easter, Labor Day (May 1), Simón Bolívar Day (July 24), National Independence Day (Aug 10), Guayaquil Independence Day (Oct 9), All Souls' Day (Nov 2), Cuenca Independence Day (Nov 3), and Christmas Day (Dec 25). The country also closes down on some unofficial holidays, including Carnaval (Mon and Tues prior to Ash Wednesday), Battle of Pichincha (May 24), Christmas Eve (Dec 24), and New Year's Eve (Dec 31). Foundation of Quito (Dec 6) is observed as a holiday only in Quito.

Hospitals -- Hospital Vozandes (tel. 02/2262-142; www.hospitalvozandes.org; Villalengua 267 and 10 de Agosto) and Hospital Metropolitano (tel. 02/2261-520; www.hospitalmetropolitano.org; Mariana de Jesús and Occidental) are the two most modern and best equipped hospitals in Quito. Both have 24-hour emergency service and English-speaking doctors.

Insurance -- For foreign travel, most U.S. medical insurance plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront and reimburse you only after you return home.

As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance, particularly if you're traveling to a remote or high-risk area where emergency evacuation might be necessary. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com; for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc., at tel. 800/777-8710.

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated overseas.

Travelers from the U.K. should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaced the E111 form as proof of entitlement to free/reduced-cost medical treatment abroad (tel. 0845/606-2030; www.ehic.org.uk). Note, however, that the EHIC only covers "necessary medical treatment"; for repatriation costs, lost money, baggage, or cancellation, travel insurance from a reputable company should always be sought (www.travelinsuranceweb.com).

The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com, which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multitrip policies.

Most big travel agencies offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel. 020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes "Holiday Insurance," a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033- 9988; www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and Department of State advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" cancellation coverage -- which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 888/885-7233; www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages. For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Internet Access -- Internet access is available almost everywhere in Ecuador, including in the Galápagos islands. However, don't expect to be able to surf the Web at any of the more remote jungle lodges. Connections in major cities cost 50¢ to $1 (35p-65p) per hour. In smaller, more remote towns and the Galápagos, the connection can cost up to $3 (£2) per hour.

Language -- Spanish is the language most commonly used in business transactions. Indigenous languages such as Quichua are also widely spoken throughout the country. Shuar is common in the Amazon basin. It's best to come to Ecuador with a basic knowledge of Spanish. Outside the major tourist sights, it can be difficult to find people who speak English.

Legal Aid -- If you need legal help, your best bet is to first contact your local embassy or consulate. Alternately, you can ask at your hotel, or at a local tour agency that works frequently with foreign visitors.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two.

To report a lost or stolen American Express card, call tel. 02/2560-488 in Ecuador, or 905/474-0870 collect in the U.S.; for Diners Club, call tel. 02/2981-300 in Ecuador, or 303/799-1504 collect in the U.S.; for MasterCard, call tel. 636/722-7111 collect in the U.S.; and for Visa, call tel. 410/581-9994 collect in the U.S.

If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 1800/989-898 in Ecuador; www.westernunion.com).

Mail -- Post offices are called correos in Spanish. Most towns have a central post office, usually located right on the central park or plaza. In addition, most hotels will post letters and post cards for you. Most post offices in Ecuador are open Monday through Friday from 8am to 12:30pm and 2:30 to 6pm, and Saturday from 8am to 2pm. It costs 90¢ (60p) to mail a letter to the United States or Canada, and $1.20 (80p) to Australia and Europe. From time to time, you can buy stamps at kiosks and newsstands. But your best bet is to mail your letter and buy your stamps from the post office itself, especially because there are no public mailboxes.

However, it is best to send anything of value via an established international courier service. Most hotels, especially in major cities and tourist destinations, can arrange for express mail pickup. Alternately, you can contact DHL (tel. 02/3975-000; www.dhl.com), Fed Ex (tel. 02/6017-818; www.fedex.com), EMS (tel. 02/2561-962; www.correosdelecuador.com.ec), or UPS (tel. 02/3960-000; www.ups.com). Note: Despite what you may be told, packages sent overnight to U.S. addresses tend to take 3 to 4 days to reach their destination.

Maps -- The Corporación Metropolitana de Turismo (Metropolitan Tourism Corporation; www.quito.com.ec) hands out excellent city maps of Quito and the entire country at all their desks, which include those at both the major international airports in Quito and Guayaquil. The most detailed map available is produced by International Travel Maps (www.itmb.com), available online from the website listed or from www.amazon.com.

Measurements -- Ecuador uses the metric system, although gasoline is sold by the gallon. See the chart on the inside front cover of this book for details on converting metric measurements to nonmetric equivalents.

Newspapers & Magazines -- There are several Spanish-language daily papers in Ecuador. The most popular and prominent are El Mercurio, El Universo, and El Comercio.

At the airports in Quito and Guayaquil, and at the high-end business hotels, you can find the latest edition of the Miami Herald for around 50¢ to $1 (35p-65p). English-language copies of Time or Newsweek are also available at some newsstands in the most touristy areas of Quito.

Passports -- The websites listed below provide downloadable passport applications as well as the current fees for processing applications. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "International Travel" tab of the U.S. Department of State at http://travel.state.gov.

For Residents of Australia -- You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca). Note: Canadian children who travel must have their own passport. However, if you hold a valid Canadian passport issued before December 11, 2001, that bears the name of your child, the passport remains valid for you and your child until it expires.

For Residents of Ireland -- You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 21/494-4700) or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand -- You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

Police -- Throughout Ecuador, you can usually reach the police by dialing tel. 101 in an emergency. The tourist police can also help sort out problems. In Quito, the number for the tourist police is tel. 02/2543-983.

Smoking -- By law, smoking is prohibited in all indoor public spaces, including restaurants, shops, cinemas, and offices. (Bars and discos are exempt.) That said, enforcement is virtually nonexistent. While not as rampant as in most of Europe, a large number of Ecuadoreans smoke, and smoke-filled public spaces are common. Bars, discos, and clubs are often especially smoke-filled in Ecuador.

Taxes -- All goods and services are charged a 12% value-added tax. Hotels and restaurants also add on a 10% service charge, for a total of 22% more on your bill. There is an airport departure tax of $26 (£17.33) from Guayaquil, and $41.80 (£27.87) from Quito.

Telephones -- To call Ecuador: If you're calling Ecuador from abroad:

1. Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S.; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia.

2. Dial the country code 593.

3. Dial the one-digit area code; for Quito, the area code is 2.

4. Dial the seven-digit number. The whole number you'd dial for a number in Quito, Ecuador, would be 011-593-2-0000-000.

To make calls within Ecuador: If you are calling within the same area code inside Ecuador, you simply dial the 7-digit number. However, if you are calling from one area code to another, you must dial "0" and then the area code.

To make international calls: To make international calls from Ecuador, first dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, and New Zealand 64). Next, you dial the area code and number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 00-1-202-588-7800.

To reach an international operator, dial tel. 116. Major long-distance-company access codes are as follows:

• AT&T: tel. 1-999-119
• Bell Canada: tel. 1-999-175
• British Telecom: tel. 1-999-178
• MCI: tel. 1-999-170
• Sprint: tel. 1-999-171

For directory assistance: Dial tel. 104.

For operator assistance: If you need operator assistance in making a call, dial tel. 105.

Toll-free numbers: While all toll-free numbers in Ecuador begin with 1800, there's no hard and fast rule about how many digits you'll find following them. Many toll-free numbers are just six digits long (after the 1800), while others are seven digits long. Calling a toll-free number in the United States from Ecuador is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Time -- Mainland Ecuador is on Eastern Standard Time, 5 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). The Galápagos Islands are on Central Standard Time, 6 hours behind GMT. Daylight saving time is not observed.

Tipping -- Restaurants in Ecuador add a 10% service charge to all checks. It's common to add 5% to 10% on top of this, especially if you feel the service merits it. Taxi drivers don't expect tips. Hotel porters are typically tipped 50¢ to $1 (35p-65p) per bag.

Toilets -- The condition of public facilities is surprisingly good in Ecuador. In museums, the toilets are relatively clean, but they never have toilet paper. If you have an emergency, you can also use the restrooms in hotel lobbies without much problem. Note that most buses don't have toilet facilities, and when they stop at rest stops, the facilities are often horrendous -- usually smelly squat toilets. It's always useful to have a roll of toilet paper handy.

Useful Phone Numbers -- U.S. Department of State Travel Advisory, tel. 202/647-5225 (manned 24 hrs.); U.S. Passport Agency, tel. 202/647-0518; U.S. Centers for Disease Control International Traveler's Hotline, tel. 404/332-4559.

Water -- Always drink bottled water in Ecuador. Most hotels provide bottled water in the bathroom. You can buy bottles of water on practically any street corner. Small bottles cost about 30¢ (20p). The better restaurants use ice made from boiled water, but, to be on the safe side, always ask.

Regions in Brief

The Republic of Ecuador sits near the northwestern corner of South America. It's bordered by Colombia to the north, Peru to the south and east, and the Pacific Ocean to the west. The Galápagos Islands, which straddle the Equator, are located about 966km (600 miles) to the west, in the Pacific Ocean. The country covers an area of 272,046 sq. km (105,038 sq. miles), making it roughly the same size as Colorado.

Quito

Situated at some 2,850m (9,350 ft.), Quito is the second-highest capital city in the world (after La Paz, Bolivia). It may be the capital of Ecuador, but it's actually the second-most populous city in the country (after Guayaquil). Still, it's a major transportation hub, so most visitors begin and end their trips to Ecuador here. Quito is one of the more charming cities in South America, and there's plenty to see and do. Old Town, with its wonderfully preserved colonial-style buildings, was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1978 -- the first city to earn the designation. New Town is a lively cosmopolitan area, with all the modern amenities you would expect to find in a world-class destination.

The Northern Sierra

Just north of Quito, the Equator cuts across Ecuador and forms the border that roughly defines the country's northern Sierra, or highlands. Imbabura is the first province you hit, and one of the country's prime tourism destinations. In Imbabura, you can explore the colorful artisans market of Otavalo, as well as nearby towns, where you'll find the workshops and homes of many of the artisans who supply this fabulous market. In addition, this region is one of high volcanic mountains and crater lakes. There are great hiking opportunities, especially at such beautiful spots as Cuicocha Lake and Mojanda Lakes. Farther north lie the province of Carchi and the small border town of Tulcán, a gateway, albeit a rather dangerous one, to Colombia.

The Central Sierra

The central Sierra covers the area south of Quito. Cotopaxi National Park is a little more than an hour south of Quito, and it's one of the most popular attractions on mainland Ecuador. Active travelers can climb to the summit of the highest active volcano in Ecuador (and one of the highest in the world), while anybody can marvel at its imposing beauty from the high-altitude paramo all around the park. The central Sierra contains many isolated, colonial-era haciendas that have been converted into fabulous hotels and lodges. Most offer a variety of active tour options, with horseback riding often being the mainstay. Baños and Riobamba are the primary tourist towns of the central Sierra. Travelers head to Baños mainly for both relaxation and active adventures. The city, which is nestled at the bottom of active Volcán Tungurahua, offers great hiking and biking opportunities, as well as easy access to great white-water rafting. You can also take a soothing soak in one of the hot springs, or pamper yourself with spa treatments. Riobamba is more of an industrial city, and there's not much to do here besides catching the popular Nariz del Diablo (Devil's Nose) tourist train, which involves a spectacular journey along the winding switchbacks of a steep rock face, or setting out to summit Chimborazo, the country's highest peak, at 6,310 meters (20,702 feet).

Cuenca & the Southern Sierra

Cuenca is the largest and most interesting city in the southern highlands. Like Quito, it was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Cuenca was the second-most important city in the Inca empire (after Cusco). Nearby, you can explore Ingapirca, an archaeological site with both Inca and pre-Inca ruins. Cajas National Park is located only an hour outside Cuenca, and farther south lies the small city of Loja, one of the oldest cities in Ecuador. South of Loja is the even-more-remote village of Vilcabamba, famed for the health and longevity of its residents. Many come here seeking to sip from the town's fountain of youth; others use it as a jumping-off point to visit the wild Podocarpus National Park.

Guayaquil & the Southern Coast

Guayaquil is Ecuador's largest city. Chiefly a port and industrial city, Guayaquil is reinventing itself at a dizzying pace. The city's attractive riverside walk, Malecón Simón Bolívar, has served as the anchor for a minirenaissance. Guayaquil boasts several excellent museums as well as top-notch hotels, restaurants, and bars. To the west of Guayaquil lies the Ruta del Sol (Route of the Sun), a string of beach resorts, small fishing villages, and isolated stretches of sand. Surfers come here to find that endless wave, and sun worshippers can get the perfect tan. At the north end of the Ruta del Sol is Machalilla National Park. The sleepy town of Puerto López, just outside the park, is a gateway to the park's mainland sections, as well as to Isla de la Plata, which is home to a rich variety of wildlife, and which is often called the "Poor Person's Galápagos."

Northern Pacific Coast & Lowlands

Ecuador's northern coast and its surrounding lowlands are often neglected or avoided by most tourists, although Ecuadoreans are well aware of this area's charms. The beaches around Esmeraldas and Atacames are by far the prettiest in the country. The seaside city of Bahía de Caráquez is a picturesque and peaceful place with a safe and scenic bayside Malecón. At the southern end of this section of coast is Manta, the country's second-largest port and home to a controversial U.S. airbase, which may be shut down soon after this book goes to press. Santo Domingo de los Colorados, a bit inland, serves as a major crossroads and little-known gateway to a couple of beautiful and isolated nature lodges.

El Oriente

The eastern region of Ecuador, known as El Oriente, is a vast area of lowland tropical rainforests and jungle rivers. It's considered part of the Amazon basin because the rivers here all feed and form the great Amazon River just a little farther downstream. The wildlife and bird-watching here are phenomenal; visitors have a chance to see hundreds of bird species and over a dozen monkey species, as well as anaconda, caiman, and freshwater dolphins. For the most part, the indigenous people in this region escaped domination by both the Incas and the Spanish, so they have been able to maintain their ancient rituals and traditions. Most visitors explore this area by staying at one of many remote jungle lodges, some of which are surprisingly comfortable. English-speaking guides will take you to local villages, as well as show you the incredible diversity of wildlife here.

The Galápagos Islands

The Galápagos Islands, located about 966km (600 miles) off the coast of Ecuador, are one of nature's most unique outdoor laboratories. The unusual wildlife here helped Charles Darwin formulate his theory of natural selection. Fortunately for modern-day visitors, not much has changed since Darwin's time, and the islands still offer visitors the chance to get up close and personal with a wide variety of unique and endemic species, including giant tortoises, marine iguanas, penguins, sea lions, albatrosses, boobies, and flightless cormorants. The best way to explore the area is on a cruise ship or yacht. Note, however, that this isn't your typical cruise destination -- trips involve packed days of tours and activities, some of them strenuous. A more relaxing option would be to base yourself at a resort in Santa Cruz (the most populated island in the Galápagos) and take select day trips to the islands of your choice.

Tips on Dining

In major cities such as Quito, Cuenca, and Guayaquil, you'll find tons of Ecuadorean restaurants, as well as an excellent selection of international cuisines. In Quito, there is everything from cutting-edge fusion cuisine to Thai food and sushi. Throughout the country, you'll also be able to find authentic pizza joints, as well as Chinese restaurants, known as chifas.

While you're in Ecuador, you should definitely try comida típica (typical food). Ceviche de camarones (shrimp marinated in a tangy lemon juice and served with onions and cilantro) is one of the most popular dishes in Ecuador -- you'll find it on almost every menu. Ceviche is often served with a side of salty popcorn, fried corn, and fried plantains. The salt complements the tart lemon flavor. Other local specialties include seco de chivo (goat stew in a wine sauce), empanadas de verde (turnovers made with fried green bananas and filled with cheese), tortillas de maíz (small round corn pastries, served with avocado), and humitas (a sweet corn mush mixed with eggs, served in a corn husk). In the Sierra, where it can get very cold, locals often have a soup called locro de papas (a creamy potato soup with cheese). In Cuenca, mote pillo con carne (huge potatolike pieces of corn, mixed with onions and eggs, served with a fried piece of meat and tortillas de papa -- the Ecuadorean version of potato pancakes) is one of the more popular local dishes.

Fixed-price lunches (almuerzos del día) are also common in smaller restaurants. For about $2.50 to $3 (£1.65-£2), you will get soup, a main course, dessert, and fresh juice.

I have separated restaurant listings throughout this guide into three price categories based on the average cost per person of a meal, including tax and service charge. The categories are Expensive, more than $25 (£17); Moderate, $12 to $25 (£8-£17); and Inexpensive, less than $12 (£8). Prices on menus don't include tax or tip. Expect to pay an extra 22% in tax and service charges above the prices listed throughout this book and on menus. Although a 10% tip is typically included in the bill, if the service is particularly good and attentive, you should probably leave a little extra.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. The currency conversions quoted above were correct at press time. However, rates can fluctuate considerably, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Currency

Since 2000, the official unit of currency in Ecuador has been the U.S. dollar. You can use American or Ecuadorean coins, both of which come in denominations of 1¢, 5¢, 10¢, 25¢, and 50¢. Otherwise, all the currency is in the paper form of American dollars, in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100. It's very hard to make change, especially for any bill over $5, and especially in taxis. If you are retrieving money from an ATM, be sure to request a denomination ending in 1 or 5 (most ATMs will dispense money in multiples of $1) so that you won't have to worry about breaking a large bill. If you are stuck with big bills, try to use them in restaurants to make change.

Small Change -- Before coming to Ecuador, and whenever you make a purchase, get some smaller bills and coins. Petty cash will come in handy for tipping and public transportation. Many taxi drivers and small shop owners have trouble making change for a $20 bill. Consider keeping the change separate from your larger bills, so that it's readily accessible and you'll be less of a target for theft.

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine). The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on, then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use their card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5/£3.35 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2/£1.35). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. To compare banks' ATM fees within the U.S., use www.bankrate.com. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

You can use your credit card to receive cash advances at ATMs. Keep in mind that credit card companies protect themselves from theft by limiting maximum withdrawals outside their home country, so call your credit card company before you leave home. Also remember that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time.

ATMs are ubiquitous in Ecuador. You'll even find them in remote areas such as the Galápagos. Some of the major banks include Banco de Guayaquil, Banco Pichincha, and Banco del Pacífico. Most ATMs accept cards from both the Cirrus and PLUS networks, but some can't deal with PINs that are more than four digits. Before you go to Ecuador, make sure that your PIN fits the bill.

If your ATM card doesn't work and you need cash in a hurry, contact Western Union (tel. 1800/989-898 in Ecuador; www.westernunion.com), which has numerous offices around Quito and other major towns and cities. It offers a secure and rapid (although pricey) money-wire and telegram service.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are another safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can also withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your PIN. If you don't know yours, call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank to send it to you. It usually takes 5 to 7 business days, though some banks will provide the number over the phone if you provide some personal information. Keep in mind that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or U.S. dollars). But credit cards still may be the smart way to go when you factor in such things as exorbitant ATM fees and the higher exchange rates and service fees you'll pay with traveler's checks. All major credit cards are accepted in Ecuador, although MasterCard and Visa will give you the greatest coverage, while American Express and Diners Club are slightly less widely used and accepted.

Because credit card purchases are dependent upon phone verifications, some hotels and restaurants in more remote destinations, such as the Amazon basin and Galápagos Islands, do not accept them. Moreover, some add on a 5% to 10% surcharge for credit card payments. Always check in advance if you're heading to a more remote corner of Ecuador.

To report a lost or stolen American Express card, call tel. 02/2560-488 in Ecuador, or tel. 905/474-0870 collect in the U.S.; for Diners Club, call tel. 02/2981-300 in Ecuador, or 303/799-1504 collect in the U.S.; for MasterCard, call tel. 636/722-7111 collect in the U.S.; and for Visa, call tel. 410/581-9994 collect in the U.S. When you contact your bank or issuing company, it might be able to wire you a cash advance off your credit card immediately; in many places, it can deliver an emergency credit card in 1 or 2 days. Odds are that if your wallet is gone, the police won't be able to recover it for you, but your credit card company or insurer might require a police report number, so file a police report anyway (after you cancel your credit cards).

Dear Visa, I'm Off to the Galápagos! -- Some credit card companies recommend that you notify them of any impending trip abroad so that they don't become suspicious of foreign transactions and block your charges. If you don't call your credit card company in advance, you can still call the card's toll-free emergency number if a charge is refused -- provided you remember to carry the phone number with you. Perhaps the most important lesson here is to carry more than one card so you have a backup.

Traveler's Checks

Traveler's checks are something of an anachronism from the days before the ATM made cash accessible at any time, just about anywhere. Given the fees you'll pay for ATM use at banks other than your own, however, you might be better off with traveler's checks if you're withdrawing money often.

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. American Express offers denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and (for cardholders only) $1,000. You'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%. By phone, you can buy traveler's checks by calling tel. 800/807-6233. American Express cardholders should dial tel. 800/221-7282; this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee.

Visa offers traveler's checks at Citibank locations nationwide, as well as at several other banks. The service charge ranges between 1.5% and 2%; checks come in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and $1,000. Call tel. 800/732-1322 for information. AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378. MasterCard also offers traveler's checks. Call tel. 800/223-9920 for a location near you.

If you do choose to carry traveler's checks, keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks, in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Staying Connected

Telephones

Ecuador has a modern and extensive telephone network reaching most of the country. However, cellphones are becoming far more common and readily available than land lines. Pay phones are very rare these days, though calling cards, for both cellphones and land lines, are widely available at general stores and pharmacies all over the country.

Most mid- to high-end hotels in Ecuador have international direct-dial and long-distance service and in-house fax transmission. But these calls tend to be quite expensive, especially because hotels often levy a surcharge.

The least expensive way to make local phone calls is to go to one of the many cabinas telefónicas offices found in every Ecuadorean town. In fact, in most towns and cities, it's hard to walk far without seeing one. There, you'll have a private booth where you can make all your calls and pay the attendant after you are done.

You must pay in cash at the cabinas. The cost is roughly 5¢ to 30¢ (3p-20p) per minute for calls within Ecuador, 45¢ (30p) per minute to the U.S., and 60¢ (40p) to the U.K.

Your best bet for making international calls, though, is to head to any Internet cafe with an international calling option. These cafes have connections to Skype, Net2Phone, or some other VoIP service. International calls made this way can range anywhere from 5¢ to $1 (5p-65p) per minute. If you have your own Skype or similar account, you just need to find an Internet cafe that provides a computer with a headset.

Cellphones

The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. In the U.S., T-Mobile and AT&T Wireless use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM; and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. All of Ecuador's cellphone networks are GSM.

If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone, such as many Sony Ericsson, Motorola, or Samsung models, you can make and receive calls across civilized areas around much of the globe, from Andorra to Uganda. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high -- usually $1.50 to $4 (£1-£2.65) in Ecuador.

There are several competing cellphone companies in Ecuador. All have numerous outlets and dealers around the country, including at both international airports, and all these outlets and dealers sell prepaid GSM chips that can be used in any unlocked tri-band GSM cellphone, as well as new phones with or without calling plans. If you're not carrying your own GSM phone, you are probably best off just buying one. Scores of storefronts around town, including those at the airport, sell already activated phones, with a few dollars of calling time loaded onto the chip. After that you simply buy prepaid minutes at any cellphone or pharmacy store around the country. The cheapest of these phones -- a fully functional phone -- costs around $36 (£24), activated and ready to go, with $3 (£2) of calling time included.

The main cellphone companies in Ecuador are Porta, Movistar, and Alegro. According to my Ecuadorean friends, Porta and Movistar have the best coverage.

Voice-Over Internet Protocol (VOIP)

If you have Web access while traveling, consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice over Internet Protocol, or VoIP) such as Skype (www.skype.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allow you to make free international calls from your laptop or in a cybercafe. Neither service requires the people you're calling to also have that service (though there are fees if they do not). Check the websites for details.

Even if you don't have your own Skype or Vonage account, Internet cafes in most major tourist destinations in Ecuador usually offer the option of making international calls over their VoIP connections. Rates range anywhere from 5¢ to $1 (3p-65p) per minute.

Internet & E-mail

Travelers have any number of ways to check e-mail and access the Internet on the road. Of course, using your own laptop -- or even a PDA (personal digital assistant) or electronic organizer with a modem -- gives you the most flexibility. But even if you don't have a computer, you can access your e-mail and your office computer from cybercafes.

With Your Own Computer -- In general, the more upscale and technologically savvy hotels, cafes, and retailers in Ecuador offer Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) "hot spots." Wherever possible, I've listed this in the hotel or restaurant descriptions throughout this guide.

Ecuador uses standard U.S.-style two- and three-prong electric outlets with 110-volt AC current, and standard U.S.-style phone jacks. Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Without Your Own Computer -- In Ecuador, you'll readily find cybercafes in most cities and towns, and in every major tourist destination. Heck, there are even cybercafes in the Galápagos. Although there's no definitive directory for cybercafes -- these are independent businesses, after all -- you can start looking at www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com.

Aside from formal cybercafes, many hotels have at least one computer with Internet access available for guest use. However, I recommend you avoid hotel business centers unless you're willing to pay exorbitant rates.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Ecuador is a predominantly Catholic, socially conservative country, and in general terms the nation is considerably homophobic. Public displays of same-sex affection are rare. For these reasons, the local gay and lesbian communities are pretty discreet. While Quito and Guayaquil have something of a gay and lesbian scene, with several bars and clubs catering to this clientele, the situation gets radically worse outside these large, modern metropolitan centers. For good, comprehensive information on the current situation, check out http://quito.queercity.info, the best English-language online resource for gay travelers to Ecuador, although the site is almost exclusively geared toward men. Ecuador Gay (tel. 02/2529-993; www.ecuadorgay.com) is a Quito-based travel agency geared specifically towards a gay and lesbian clientele, while Galápagos Traveller (tel. 877/829-9006 in the U.S. and Canada; www.galapagostraveller.com), is a recommended GLB-friendly Ecuadorean travel agency.