A (decapitated?) head emerges from the pavement at the entrance of Modern One, a grand Neoclassical building dating back to 1825. Across the road is Modern Two, originally a 19th-century orphanage. You get two museums for the price of one here, although both are free. Slightly off the beaten tourist track—not that anywhere in Edinburgh is much of a schlep—the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art is just above the Water of Leith, the little river that tumbles through the city to the docklands at Leith. The head in front of Modern One is one of Antony Gormley's 6 Times' sculptures, a series of cast-iron, life-size figures rising out of the river. And the pavement. The galleries in both buildings showcase an impressive permanent collection, from works by Picasso and Matisse to Damien Hirst and Tracey Emin, along with a series of changing exhibitions. It's the sculpture park that's the biggest draw, however, featuring works by Henry Moore and Barbara Hepworth, on the grounds of Modern One, part of which was re-landscaped in 2002 by Charles Jencks into a giant grassy undulation with stepped serpentine mounds and crescent-shaped pools.