An elegant Georgian façade can hide a multitude of sins—or styles. From the outside, the Nira Caledonia looks like a traditionally understated townhouse on a broad cobbled boulevard. However, inside the dark arts are at work. This 28-room boutique hotel eschews traditional tartan in favor of a dramatic black-and-gold color scheme, bold stripes, and smattering of Oriental objects. In the restaurant, Blackwood's Bar & Grill, the chandelier is draped in black silk, large Venetian mirrors adding a touch of glamour—as do the three Jacuzzi suites. Acquired by Nira Hotels and Resorts in 2011 and relaunched after a refurbishment in 2012, it was once the home of John Wilson, an important 19th-century literary figure, magazine founder, and friend of Wordsworth, Coleridge, and Sir Walter Scott (his statue is in East Princes Street Gardens). Fabrics and furnishings might be modern and masculine, but original features, from the sash windows to the cornicing and plasterwork, are still intact.