Curiouser and curiouser: the entrance to this boutique hotel is through the façade of a grand 19th-century stone church attached to a modern cinema complex on the edge of the New Town. Inside it's a slightly disjointed affair, a warren of dimly lit corridors, the walls peppered with paintings by local artists, surreal white featureless statues dotted around. The hotel, which opened in 2003, became part of the Marriot Autograph stable in 2012. Every Autograph hotel has a theme, and here, it's art. Other slight oddities: the elegant restaurant (sunny and sleek, overlooking lush, green Calton Hill) only serves breakfast, while the windowless lounge had an honesty bar. There's a bartender in the Snug now, however, and once you enter the rooms any reservations fall away. The floor-to-ceiling windows look out over the city's skyline to the front or open onto the neatly trimmed two-acre rooftop garden at the back, the hotel's highlight, a peaceful sanctuary far from the dusty streets down below. Out of sight out of mind.