Planning a trip to Egypt

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Until a few years ago, scant attention was paid in Egypt to the environmental impact of the millions of tourists who visit every year.

This has started to change, as foreign donors have pressed the government on the consequences of environmental degradation caused by massive development along the Red Sea coast.

Egypt has established 21 protected areas, and foreign donors, including the European Union, have contributed large amounts of capital to develop them on behalf of future generations of Egyptians.

The best known of these protected areas are St. Catherine protected area, Ras Mohamed National Park, and the Wadi Rayan protectorate. Read more about the protected areas at the Egyptian Environmental Affairs Agency (EEAA) website (www.eeaa.gov.eg/protectorates).

A number of resorts on the Sinai Peninsula, down the Red Sea coast between Gouna and Marsa Allam, and even in Cairo have begun to participate in environmental certification programs designed to assess their environmental footprint and maximize their sustainability. One of the more common ones is Green Globe 21 (www.ec3global.com/products-programs/green-globe). The program is named for the U.N. environmental Agenda 21 program (www.un.org/esa/sustdev/documents/agenda21/index.htm). You can contribute to making tourism greener by learning about the program and asking about it when you make your booking: Make it clear that your tourist dollars prefer to flow to sustainable enterprises.

Additionally, a number of local Egyptian NGOs have emerged that work on raising awareness of environmental issues and train tourism workers in ways that they can preserve the natural capital on which their jobs depend.

The Hurghada Environmental Protection and Conservation Association (HEPCA) is focused on marine issues along the coast. Read more about their efforts to protect marine life, coral, and wrecks at www.hepca.com.

Red Sea Rangers is an organization based on the Red Sea coast that aims to protect the marine environment over 700 km (435 miles) of coastline. It has an interesting and informative website at www.redseaparks.net.

Environmental Quality International (www.eqi.com.eg) is a private consulting firm that has done an enormous amount in the isolated desert oasis of Siwa, including the development of an ecolodge.

There are a number of locations in the Red Sea where it's possible to swim with wild dolphins. For information about the ethics of swimming with dolphins and other outdoor activities, visit the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society (www.wdcs.org) and Tread Lightly (www.treadlightly.org).

Apart from staying in low-consumption facilities, you can also look at carbon offsetting as a way of reducing the overall impact of your vacation. Each time you take a flight or drive a car, CO2 is released into the atmosphere. You can help neutralize this danger to our planet through carbon offsetting (paying someone to reduce your CO2 emissions by the same amount you've added). Carbon offsets can be purchased in the U.S. from companies such as Carbonfund.org (www.carbonfund.org) and TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and from Climate Care (www.climatecare.org) in the U.K.

Although one could argue that any vacation that includes an airplane flight can't be truly "green," you can go on holiday and still contribute positively to the environment. You can offset carbon emissions from your flight in other ways. Choose forward-looking companies that embrace responsible development practices, helping preserve destinations for the future by working alongside local people. An increasing number of sustainable tourism initiatives can help you plan a family trip and leave as small a "footprint" as possible on the places you visit.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) contains a great source of sustainable travel ideas run by a spokesperson for responsible tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes responsible tourism practices and issues an annual Green Gear & Gift Guide.

You can find eco-friendly travel tips, statistics, and touring companies and associations -- listed by destination under "Travel Choice" -- at the International Ecotourism Society (TIES) website (www.ecotourism.org). Also check out Conservation International (www.conservation.org), which, with National Geographic Traveler, annually presents World Legacy Awards (www.wlaward.org) to those travel tour operators, businesses, organizations, and places that have made a significant contribution to sustainable tourism. Ecotravel.com (www.ecotravel.com) is part online magazine and part ecodirectory, letting you search for touring companies in several categories (water-based, land-based, spiritually oriented, and so on).

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism and find ways of improving tourism so that local benefits are increased.

The Association of British Travel Agents (ABTA) (www.abtamembers.org/responsibletourism) acts as a focal point for the U.K. travel industry and is one of the leading groups spearheading responsible tourism.

The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO) (www.aito.co.uk) is a group of interesting specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

Escorted & Package Tours

Packages for the Independent Traveler

Package tours are simply a way to buy the airfare, accommodations, and other elements of your trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, and sometimes even activities) at the same time and often at discounted prices. In Egypt, they are also one of the best ways to save money. Most tourist hotels in Egypt are oriented toward travel-agency and group bookings. Walk-ins will often be charged double or triple what customers who have booked as part of a package are paying.

One good source of package deals is the airlines themselves. Most major airlines offer air/land packages, including American Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/321-2121; www.aavacations.com), Delta Vacations (tel. 800/654-6559; www.deltavacations.com), Continental Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/301-3800; www.covacations.com), and United Vacations (tel. 888/854-3899; www.unitedvacations.com). Several big online travel agencies -- Expedia, Travelocity, Orbitz, and Lastminute.com -- also do a brisk business in packages to Egypt.

Thomas Cook (tel. 0870/7505711; www.thomascook.com) is one of the biggest operators in the Egyptian package market, and it has well-trained staff in strategically placed offices around the country. (I'm a fan of its Luxor office.) In-country services booked through them tend to be higher-end than some of the local agents, but in the end you get what you pay for.

Thomson Holidays (tel. 0870/1650079; www.thomson.co.uk) is a British package dealer that specializes in keeping prices down and does a huge volume of business in Egypt. In addition to providing airfare and accommodations packages at substantially low prices, Thomson sells day and multi-day packages for everything from monument sightseeing to Red Sea snorkeling through representatives who can be found at the travel desks in the lobbies of most high-traffic tourist hotels in Cairo, Luxor, and Sharm El Sheikh.

Travel packages are also listed in the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper. Or check ads in national travel magazines such as Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel Magazine, Travel + Leisure, National Geographic Traveler, and Condé Nast Traveler.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare, hotels, and meals to tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

Despite the fact that escorted tours require big deposits and predetermine hotels, restaurants, and itineraries, many people derive security and peace of mind from the structure they offer. Escorted tours -- whether they're navigated by bus, motor coach, train, or boat -- let travelers sit back and enjoy the trip without having to drive or worry about details. They take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle. They're particularly convenient for people with limited mobility and they can be a great way to make new friends.

On the downside, you'll have little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jam-packed with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure -- plus they often focus on the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out on many a lesser-known gem.

Egypt Magic (tel. 888/575-6941 or 352/402-0412; www.egyptmagic.com) has a variety of 1- and 2-week Egyptian packages. Its accommodation choices are solid and its itineraries are reasonable. The Egypt Adventure tour, which costs $1,700 to $2,100 depending on the season, doesn't include a cruise, but it sees Upper Egypt sites by car and includes good flexibility for travelers to do their own thing, with or without their guide.

British-based Insight Vacations (www.insightvacations.com) has economically priced tours that hit all of Egypt's must-see sites. Its 17-day Grand Tour of Egypt runs about $3,000 (£1,528) and covers Alexandria, Cairo, Upper Egypt (including a cruise), and a visit to St. Catherine's monastery on the Sinai Peninsula.

American luxury travel company Abercrombie & Kent (tel. 800/554-7016; www.abercrombiekent.com) is at the high end of the scale, with an 11-day Highlights of Egypt tour running around $4,000 to $6,000, with accommodations and food to match.

Intrepid Travel (tel. 800/970-7299; www.intrepidtravel.com) offers a number of trips to Egypt run by local tour leaders and guides. The company's focus on local experiences mean you get the real deal (house visits with local families in Aswan and Luxor, an overnight felucca ride on the Nile), and these experiences truly make the trip. Forty-four different trips are offered, ranging from 1 to 117 days. Examples include the 8-day Egypt Adventure ($925) and the 15-day Discover Egypt ($1,265) and Egypt Explorer ($945).

When to Go

Weather

Egypt is best visited in the fall (Sept-Nov) and spring (Feb-Apr). The weather is relatively chilly December through January, except in the south, where the winter is very pleasant. The summer is the only time to be avoided for climatic reasons. Cairo is hot, muggy, and filthy for most of June through August, and most residents take their vacations during this period, if possible. Upper Egypt and even the Red Sea coast can also be uncomfortably hot during the summer.

High and low seasons follow a combination of weather patterns and school holidays. Thus, summer in Upper Egypt is low season because of the heat (despite the summer holidays), and winter is high season, with the market peaking around Christmas, New Year's, and Easter. The same is true for Cairo and the Red Sea, though with less dramatic fluctuations. Winter is low season in Alexandria and along the north coast, but temperatures are relatively cool and the wind picks up. During the summer, with Egyptian schools on holiday and the unpleasant Cairo climate in stark contrast to the moderate warmth of the Mediterranean, the high season takes the north coast with a vengeance.

To avoid the crowds, go against the seasons, but be prepared for some serious heat if you're headed for Upper Egypt during the summer. Luxor in August is not for the faint of heart, and venturing out to the sights without a fairly serious sunblock, an extravagantly brimmed sun hat, and a couple of liters of water is simply unwise. Personally, I would try to stay at the margins of the high season and visit around the first 2 weeks of November or June. The same goes for Cairo, the Red Sea coast, and the Sinai.

The main thing to watch on the north coast is the Egyptian school schedules. Once the Egyptian schools and universities let out, cities and beaches on the Mediterranean become very noisy and crowded, and Western tourists, women in particular, will find themselves subject to substantial unwelcome attention. For this reason, I would advise visiting Alexandria in March and April or October and November.

Holidays

Egypt is a country that takes a lot of holidays, both secular and religious. Public holidays in Egypt are a mix of secular celebrations of the achievements of the post-1952 state and religious holidays. Islamic religious holidays can be a little hard to pin down sometimes, because they occur according to a lunar calendar; by religious reckoning, they happen on the same day every year, but according to the modern Gregorian calendar, the dates move about 11 days earlier every year. Further complicating matters is that for the beginning of the key month of Ramadan to be officially declared, the new moon must be spotted.

Government offices (including visa extensions) and many public services (like banks) are closed for secular holidays such as July 26 or October 10. Most general services, including money-change offices and major tourist sights, operate as normal, however.

Religious holidays carry more social significance and provide you with fascinating opportunities as well as potentially insurmountable obstacles. Ramadan, the month of fasting that precedes Eid el Fitr, is a great example. On the one hand, it's a fascinating time to be in Egypt: the streets are decorated and, once the sun goes down, the streets of poorer neighborhoods are filled with parties and celebrations that go on most of the night. On the other hand, the already-brief Egyptian working day is substantially shortened during Ramadan, which means that getting the most minor arrangements made or changed can quickly become a frustrating and pointless exercise.

All the holidays listed wreak havoc on public services. Restaurants and tourist facilities largely remain open, but government offices close and many stores also close or open late. Here are the highpoints of the annual holiday schedule in Egypt:

• Coptic and Orthodox Christmas, January 7: Unlike Western Christians, the Eastern church celebrates the birth of Christ on January 7. This day has only recently been made a national holiday.

• Muharram, approximately January 10: This is the beginning of the Islamic year (the first month of which is named Muharram).

• Moulid El Nabi, approximately March 20: The birthday of the Prophet Mohamed is celebrated with special sweets such as the sesame-seed-based sensemeya.

• Sham El Nessim/Easter, April 9: This celebration of spring cuts across social and religious lines in Egypt, and on this day everybody who can collect a meal in a basket and get out of the house goes for a picnic. The name of the holiday simply means "smell the breeze" in Arabic.

• Sinai Liberation Day, April 25: This commemorates the day that the Sinai Peninsula was returned to Egypt by the Israelis under the terms of the American-brokered Camp David Accords.

• Labor Day, May 1: Paying lip service to the socialist propaganda of yesteryear, the Egyptian government still celebrates May Day.

• National Day, July 23: This commemorates the occurrences of 1952 that brought Gamal Abdel Nasser and his group of Free Officers to power.

• Ramadan, approximately September 2 to October 2: A month in which Muslims all over the world are enjoined to abstain from food, drink, and sex between sunup and sundown. The major meal of the day becomes iftar (literally, breakfast), which is consumed with great enthusiasm the moment the sun goes down.

• Eid al Fitr, approximately October 2: Egyptians spend these 3 days celebrating the end of Ramadan with street celebrations and special sweets. "Al fitr" means breaking the fast. Eid is originally 1 day only (the day when fasting stops), but in Egypt it lasts for 3 days during which traditional Egyptian sweets such as kahk and ghouraiyyeba are baked.

• Armed Forces Day, October 6: This commemorates the crossing of the Suez Canal by Egyptian forces in 1973.

• Eid Al Adha, approximately December 8: Commemorating the completion of the Haj and the return of the pilgrims from Mecca as well as Ibrahim's willingness to sacrifice his only son, Eid al Adha celebrations may be a little too colorful for comfort. Most stores, most banks, and all public offices are closed for this holiday. Restaurants, however, remain open.

A Day to Stay Inside & Read

Eid al Adha, which follows the end of the annual pilgrimage to Mecca and commemorates Ibrahim's willingness to sacrifice his own son to God, is celebrated over 4 days during which everyone who can afford it slaughters sheep, goats, and cows. A third of the meat is distributed to the poor and a third to family and friends, with the remaining third going to those who paid for the animals. In the days leading up to the feast, the roads into major cities are jammed with trucks full of livestock.

The first day of Eid is marked by early morning prayers. When the men return from the mosque, the animals are killed in the street, in the stairwells of apartment complexes, and in parking lots. In accordance with Muslim tradition, the animals must bleed to death, and the mess, often not cleaned up for days, is extraordinary and can be overwhelming. There is generally no problem going out and participating in the celebrations if you feel like it -- participants, including children who dip hands and feet in the pools of blood, are usually very happy to pose for macabre pictures. However, the sight of animals dying slowly in often unsanitary conditions may be disturbing for many, and I would advise spending the day well away from it all. This would be a good day to visit the nearest major tourist site or stay in your hotel room with a good guidebook.

Getting Around

Through Travel Agents

Booking tickets for transport inside Egypt is very straightforward. Plane tickets can be booked online, and bus and train tickets can be purchased at the appropriate stations. The downside is that, mainly because of traffic congestion, it's very time consuming. Simply getting to the train station to buy your tickets can set you back 1 or 2 hours, and then you have to fight through the crowds. For this reason, I recommend using a travel agent to make the arrangements. Expect to pay a premium, of course, for this service. In the case of train tickets (which pay no commissions to agents), it will help if you have other business to do with that agent -- book your pyramid tour and your van rental at the same time as you ask for your train tickets.

There are literally thousands of travel agents in Egypt, and the main squares in tourist destinations are crowded with musty offices where papers are piled on top of broken computers. It is very much a caveat emptor market.

The Travco office in Zamalek, 13 Mahmoud Azmi St. (tel. 02/27362042 or 02/27354493; www.travco-eg.com), has an excellent reputation, as does Guardian Travel, 5a Maruteia St., Giza (tel. 02/37404747; www.guardiantravel.com). You can also try Garden City Travel, 20 Maamal Al-Sokar, Garden City (tel. 02/27940663; www.gardencitytravel.net).

By Air

Getting around Egypt means covering substantial distances from one tourist center to the next. Though there is reliable bus service between most places and excellent train service to a few, the best way to get around is by air.

EgyptAir has a virtual monopoly on internal flights. (There are a few charters operating inside the country, but standards are low and they offer no advantages over the state carrier.) The planes aren't always the cleanest, and the flying style will make you nostalgic for the international airline that brought you to Cairo, but they're usually reliable. If you plan to read or sleep, bring earplugs; EgyptAir's domestic flights run a constant stream of ads and music videos, and the volume is turned up to maximum for the benefit of the hard of hearing.

Tickets can be booked with any travel agent or at an EgyptAir travel office (where service is friendly but always frustratingly slow), but booking online at www.egyptair.com beats both these options hands down. It's quick, easy, and cheap.

By Bus

Buses are how the majority of Egyptians get around the country. You can get almost anywhere on the bus, and the service is reliable and relatively safe.

Service is divided up geographically between a number of older companies including West Delta, East Delta, Upper Egypt, and Pullman. High-volume destinations such as Dahab, Sharm el Sheikh, Hurghada, and Luxor are served by Super Jet, which is just slightly more expensive and has newer buses with air-conditioning and toilets.

Two things to check on before setting out on a bus journey are videos and air-conditioning. If there is going to be a video, take earplugs -- there are no earphones, and the sound is played at maximum volume over speakers. Air-conditioning is also usually turned up too high, and even in the height of summer you may find yourself wishing for a jacket.

The newly built Turgoman bus station in the middle of Cairo services all destinations in Egypt.

By Car

There are two ways to see Egypt by car: hiring a car with a driver or hiring a car that you drive yourself. I recommend the former, simply because it's the low-hassle option, with the driver taking care of most of the problems associated with driving yourself.

Driving yourself is a viable option if you have quick reflexes and nerves of steel, and it will probably work out to be cheaper and more flexible if you're driving from town to town. On the other hand, for getting around Cairo, I recommend taking taxis or hiring a driver. Between congestion and lack of parking, your own car is more of a burden than anything else.

The most important thing to consider is that the standard of driving in Egypt, particularly on highways, is appallingly bad. Locals think nothing of passing on blind corners or coming up on the crest of a hill. Opposing traffic is simply expected to make room by pulling off the road. Signaling follows a different protocol; for example, a driver on the highway with the left turn signal flashing may be indicating to you that it's safe to pass, or that he plans to turn left, or that he forgot to turn off his indicator. Note that Egyptians drive on the right, in theory at least.

Speed limits vary between 50kmph (31 mph) inside towns to between 90 and 110kmph (56-68 mph) on highways. Congestion means that you'll rarely get over 20kmph (12 mph) in the city, but highway limits are routinely ignored.

Petrol, though getting to be more expensive, is still extremely cheap by Western standards -- between LE1.20 and LE1.50 per liter (22¢-27¢/11p-14p) for regular and premium gas. Expect to tip the attendant LE1 (18¢/9p) for a fill up and the person who cleans your windshield another LE1 (18¢/9p).

Gas stations are not hard to find, though they tend to be widely spaced out in the desert, so it's wise to fill up the tank at every opportunity -- you never know when any particular station is going to run out and leave you wondering whether you can make it to the next one.

There are a few toll roads in Egypt. Going to Ain Sukhna, for example, to Fayum or Alexandria will cost you LE2 (36¢/18p). More of a hassle are the security checkpoints, where you may be asked to hand over your documents and answer a few questions.

Note that foreigners were not being allowed to drive the Nile Valley road between Luxor and Cairo at the time of writing.

The main campus branch of the American University in Cairo Bookstore has a selection of road maps to Egypt.

By Train

There is a functional north-south railway backbone in Egypt, so travel by train between Aswan in the south and Alexandria in the north is a pleasant and practical way of seeing the country and getting to where you're going. With the exception of the three-times-a-week service to Marsa Matruh, there is no useful service outside this corridor.

Most trains leave from the main downtown station in Ramsis Square. Tickets are sold here, and they have a useful information office.

Note that tourists are not officially allowed to travel on non-tourist-class trains to Upper Egypt. This only becomes a problem if you accidentally board the wrong train (in which case you're probably looking at an uncomfortable taxi ride back from the first stop to the station to try again).

The difference in cleanliness and comfort level make it worth traveling first class. Note, however, that the air-conditioning is usually cranked to maximum in both first and second class. Bring a sweater or a scarf for train travel, even in the summer.

On shorter trips, there is usually a snack and hot-drink trolley. The system is that you pay at the end of the trip for everything you've had -- if the attendant demands payment on the spot, he's probably trying to scam you.

Reserved seating is the norm in first and second class between major centers, but double booking has been known to happen. When it does, conflict-averse conductors tend to flee, leaving it to the passengers to sort out where to sit.

Regions in Brief

Cairo & Environs -- The capital of Egypt is a massive, densely populated city of around 13 million people. Crammed with historic mosques, great museums, and must-see sights, Cairo is, by the same token, probably not a place that you want to spend more than a few days. The air is polluted, the infrastructure on the point of collapse, and the roads edge closer to gridlock with every week.

The pyramids of the Giza Plateau, maybe the most famous works of public architecture on Earth and the only one of the original Seven Wonders of the World still extant, lie on the western outskirts of the city. A short drive into the countryside to the south lie the necropolis of Saqqara and the remnants of the ancient capital of Memphis, as well as the sites of Dashur and Abu Sir.

Beyond Giza and Saqqara, but still an easy day trip from the city, the oasis of Fayum offers a unique cultural and shopping experience.

Trains run north and south from Cairo, and it is the hub for both air and bus transport all over Egypt. Almost all travel agents have offices here, and the head offices of all the airlines that service Egypt are here as well.

North Coast -- Egypt's Mediterranean coast has long been a world apart from the interior of Egypt, and did not become important until it was invaded by Alexander the Great (for whom Alexandria is named) in 331 B.C. Until the exodus that followed the army's takeover of the government in the 1950s, Alexandria was the center of a thriving and cosmopolitan Mediterranean society. Evidence of this past can still be seen in the stunning Roman mosaics that have been unearthed near the train station, the densely interwoven cosmogony of the Kom al Shuqafa catacombs, and even the gleaming wood and brass of the old coffee shops around Midan Saad Zahgloul.

Recently the coast to the east and west of Alex, as the city is affectionately known, has experienced something of a resurgence as a summer getaway for upper-class Cairenes escaping the muggy July and August heat of the capital. Holiday villas now blight miles of once-pristine white beach, and you have to go a long way these days to find an open spot of sand. Most foreigners, however, visit the north coast for the diving. From World War II submarines and planes to the ruins of what just might be Cleopatra's Palace, there is a world of underwater treasures to be explored.

Upper Egypt -- From the Valley of the Kings and Tutankhamun tomb to Karnak Temple, Abu Simbel, and the Colossus of Memnon, Upper Egypt has become synonymous with ancient Egyptian treasures. Luxor, close to the ancient capital of Thebes, and Aswan are the two cities of Upper Egypt that serve the tourists who flock here in the hundreds of thousands to tour the Pharaonic monuments around these otherwise unremarkable little cities.

Upper Egypt is also home to Nubia, which has a culture, history, and way of life all its own. Coming from Cairo to Aswan, you will immediately notice the change in atmosphere. Gone is the hustle and bustle of the big city, replaced by a laid-back attitude that takes the days as they come and seems to match the monuments themselves for timeless tranquility. With fewer must-see sights, Aswan is the place to unwind -- go for a sunset sail on the Nile and wander the souk in search of local handicrafts.

Sinai Peninsula -- Fought over in the 1960s and 1970s, Sinai did not come into its own as a tourist destination until the 1980s. The first to note its potential were the occupying Israeli forces, but after their withdrawal in 1982, Egyptians and foreigners began to flock to the deserted, palm-lined beaches and miles of pristine coral on the Sinai's eastern coast. Twenty-five years later, the main center of Sharm el Sheikh is a thriving, and still growing, city, and the coast is lined with literally hundreds of resorts. According to government statistics, 80% of all housing in Sharm is in the form of hotels, and only 3% is used by the original local population.

All this development has come at an environmental cost -- tables and chairs have supplanted palm trees as the dominant beach fauna, and in many places the coral has been severely damaged. Substantial efforts are now being made by both international donors and local nongovernmental organizations (NGOs) to preserve what's left.

With all the hotels and the saturation level of advertising showing beaches and coral, it's easy to forget that the Sinai Peninsula has some of the most stunning desert scenery you can imagine, a must-see 6th-century monastery, and a spectacularly remote Pharaonic site.

Red Sea Coast -- The stretch of coastline from Marsa Allam up to Gouna is the new boomtown of Egyptian tourism, a spectacular desert coastline now being developed with a series of plush (and some not-so-plush) resorts. Long the preserve of divers intrepid enough to brave a 12- to 18-hour bus ride to camp on a beach, the wrecks and marine life are now accessible to those of us whose ideas of hardship are having to wave down a waiter or carry our own towels.

Around Hurghada, where much of the development first started, many of the resorts are all-inclusive and have slid down-market. In recent years, the town has been held up by development experts and businessmen as an example of how not to do it in the future. Lax planning and cut-throat pricing have resulted in a frankly ugly, disorganized mess of a town, at once overbuilt and half-finished.

Less frequently cited, however, are the positive examples on either side of Hurghada -- Soma Bay, Gouna, and Sahl Hashish all combine first-class resorts with stunning beaches and great diving.

Western Desert & the Oases of the New Valley -- The vast stretch of desert to the west of Cairo, Luxor, and Aswan is a rough oblong bordered by Libya to the west and the Nile Valley to the east, with the top and bottom defined by the Mediterranean and Sudan, respectively. In prehistoric times, this desert was alternately savanna and submerged by water, and the fossilized traces of both aquatic and land-based life lay scattered about underfoot almost everywhere you look. At the same time, rock paintings showing life of early man abound in certain areas, with some of the richest finds in this regard in the deep south around the Gilf Kebir (made famous by the 1996 movie The English Patient).

There are five main oases in the desert -- Siwa in the north and, heading south, Bahareya, Farafra, Dakhla, and Kharga. Each of these communities -- which were isolated from the outside world until the 1970s, when the first asphalt roads connected them with the Nile Valley -- has its own character and is the stepping-off point for expeditions into the surrounding desert. Spend a night in the White Desert amongst the outlandish white outcroppings, explore the ancient mud-brick town of Qasr, or search out the names of the first European explorers carved on the side of a Roman temple on the edge of the Great Sand Sea.

Getting There

By Plane

Cairo -- Cairo International Airport (CAI) is the main international hub for Egypt. EgyptAir, which has a virtual domestic monopoly, uses it as its hub for internal flights (often meaning that relatively short distances must be covered with long flights to Cairo and then back out to the final destination). There are two other airports in Cairo, but they are both used exclusively for private internal and government flights.

Many major European and Middle Eastern airlines have regular flights into Cairo International. These include Air France, Alitalia, Austrian Air, British Airways, Czech Airlines, Emirates, Gulf Air, Iberia, KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, Kuwait Airlines, Lufthansa, Malaysian Airlines, Maley, Olympic Airlines, Royal Jordanian, Saudi Arabian, Swiss International, Singapore Airlines, Qatar Airways, and Turkish Airlines. EgyptAir, the Egyptian national carrier, also operates flights to most major European hubs and has a daily direct flight to New York.

Sharm el Sheikh (SSH) -- Sharm el Sheikh International Airport (SSH) now receives international flights directly from all over the world from major airlines including Alitalia, Austrian Air, British Airways, LOT Polish Airlines, Royal Jordanian, and Swiss International, as well as many low-cost operators such as Air One, Condor, Eurofly, and Transavia. This is a good port of entry to the Sinai. Dahab, St. Catherine, and Taba are a few hours' drive from Sharm, and EgyptAir flights are cheap and reasonably reliable. Very rarely this airport is also referred to by its Israeli name Ophira.

Alexandria Burg al Arab (HBE) -- Farther outside Alexandria than Al Nozha, but with more-modern facilities and a longer runway, this airport is serviced by EgyptAir, Emirates, and Lufthansa/United Airlines. There is a shuttle from the airport into the middle of Alexandria, but though flights from Cairo are cheap (around LE300/$55/£28 for a return flight), any of the express trains from Ramsis are a more pleasant way to get there and, at around 2 1/2 hours, quicker when you take into account the transfer time.

Alexandria al Nozha (ALY) -- Closer to the city than the newer Burg al Arab facilities, Al Nozha has an unnervingly short runway and is only used by EgyptAir. Unless you're a fan of exciting landings, you're better off on the train from Ramsis. Airfare from Cairo is the same as for Burg al Arab.

Luxor International (LXR) -- This airport is serviced mainly by internal EgyptAir flights and international low-cost charter carriers such as My Air, TNT, and Transavia (which runs popular direct flights to Amsterdam). Flying time from Cairo is about an hour, making this an excellent alternative to the tedious and sometimes uncomfortable 12-hour train trip from Cairo. Return airfare from Cairo is around LE1,000 ($180/£93).

Aswan al Daraw (ASW) -- This small but surprisingly new little airport is serviced by EgyptAir. Annoyingly, many flights from Cairo require a 2- to 3-hour layover in Luxor (which is more than the flying time) and a change of planes. If you're going to fly, check that the flight is direct. Return airfare from Cairo is around LE1,400 ($253/£130).

Abu Simbel (ABS) -- This airport is exclusively for EgyptAir tourist flights. Flying rather than driving makes sense, as there's nothing to see en route, and waiting for the convoy can be pretty tedious.

Hurghada (HRG) -- This small, modern airport effectively serves Gouna, Hurghada, Makadi Bay, Soma Bay, Safaga, and Quseir. It is served direct from Europe by low-cost operators such as Condor, Thomas Cook, and Tranasavia, as well as internally by EgyptAir. Airfare from Cairo is around LE750 ($136/£69), and will save you a tedious and unpleasant bus trip.

Marsa Allam (RMF) -- EgyptAir was flying to Marsa Allam twice weekly (Sun and Wed) at the time of writing. However, demand is sure to increase dramatically in this area, and the number of flights should as well. Price for a return ticket is around LE1,200 ($218/£109).

Marsa Matruh (MUH) -- There is only service here during the summer, when EgyptAir usually has a few flights a week.

Taba (TCP) -- This airport is currently only being used by direct charters from European hubs.

Kharga (UVL) -- This airport services one EgyptAir flight a week, on Sundays. Ticket price is LE400 ($73/£37). You may have a problem booking a seat -- this is officially a government flight, but the EgyptAir office in Kharga can do it. If you run into problems in Cairo, phone Mahmoud Shokri at the Kharga office (tel. 092/7921695).

Flying to Cairo for Less -- A number of low-cost airlines in Europe are now well known for their cheap flights to Egypt. Expect crowded planes, little leg room, and low, low prices. Dutch-based Transavia (tel. 20/4060406; http://en.transavia.com/en) has taken a lot of business away from major airlines with its cut-rate flights to Sharm el Sheikh and Luxor from Amsterdam.

Tips for Black Travelers

African-American travelers may experience difficulties in Egypt.

Black Travel Online (www.blacktravelonline.com) posts news on upcoming events and includes links to articles and travel-booking sites. Soul of America (www.soulofamerica.com) is a comprehensive website, with travel tips, event and family-reunion postings, and sections on historically black beach resorts and active vacations.

Agencies and organizations that provide resources for black travelers include: Rodgers Travel (tel. 800/825-1775; www.rodgerstravel.com); the African American Association of Innkeepers International (tel. 877/422-5777; www.africanamericaninns.com); and Henderson Travel & Tours (tel. 800/327-2309 or 301/650-5700; www.hendersontravel.com), which has specialized in trips to Africa since 1957.

Go Girl: The Black Woman's Guide to Travel & Adventure (Eighth Mountain Press) is a compilation of travel essays by writers including Jill Nelson and Audre Lorde. The African-American Travel Guide by Wayne C. Robinson (Hunter Publishing; www.hunterpublishing.com) was published in 1997, so it may be somewhat dated. Travel and Enjoy Magazine (tel. 866/266-6211; www.travelandenjoy.com) is a travel magazine and guide. The well-done Pathfinders Magazine (tel. 877/977-PATH; www.pathfinderstravel.com) includes articles on everything from Rio de Janeiro to Ghana to upcoming ski, diving, golf, and tennis trips.

Internet Access

Without Your Own Computer

Internet access in most of Egypt is cheap and easy, with even the smallest and most out-of-the-way villages sporting at least rudimentary Internet capacity. You may have to elbow game-playing kids out of the way, but you'll be able to check the news and collect your messages.

It is also worth noting that a 2006 amendment to the local Ministry of Tourism hotel rating system requires that all four- and five-star facilities provide Internet access.

With Your Own Computer

For travelers with Wi-Fi-equipped laptops, life is good in Egypt. In Cairo, almost every cafe and quite a few fast-food outlets feature free wireless Internet, and those that don't are usually within range of one that does. Additionally, in Luxor and Sharm el Sheikh, two major mobile service providers, Vodafone and Mobinil, are competing to provide Wi-Fi coverage throughout town. At the time of writing, service was iffy -- free beta rollouts that offered low bandwidth and patchy coverage -- but look for it to improve. One word of caution: Privacy provisions appear to be quite lax on these networks. If you're concerned about your browsing being monitored or your e-mails being read, read the fine print before you log on.

The big hotel chains have also jumped on the Wi-Fi bandwagon in Egypt, but for the time being they are not offering it for free. The irony of charging LE165 ($30/£15) a day for Internet access when it's available for free just across the street in a cafe or at their three-star competition is lost on them.

For a list of hotspots in Egypt, check out the database at www.jiwire.com. Truly determined Wi-Fi hunters, however, won't be satisfied with anything less than a pocket-size "Wi-Fi spy." Available at Western gadget stores for $20 to $200, depending on features, these handy little devices can sniff out and analyze surrounding wireless networks.

If your laptop is not Wi-Fi equipped, there is cheap and good dial-up access throughout the country that you can access from your hotel room. Most hotels and Internet cafes will also let you plug into their network through the Ethernet port on your laptop.

At the time of writing, Terminal One of the Cairo International Airport was equipped with free Wi-Fi service and Terminal Two had a Wi-Fi system with pay cards (available in the terminal).

Electricity supply is 220 volts in Egypt, and plugs are European style, with two round prongs. Adapters are readily available.

Ethernet patch cables are easy to find (and are generally supplied by hotels with in-room high-speed Internet), but replacement power cords, even for very common laptop models, are not.

Censorship

The Internet is not widely censored in Egypt, though access to some sites that are critical of the government have been blocked. A greater concern for some will be the monitoring of certain sites (such as www.gayegypt.com) and the use of chat rooms to set up gay men for unpleasant encounters with the police.

Tips for Families

Egyptian society is very family oriented. Children of all ages are gladly accepted in virtually every context, and it is quite common for restaurant and hotel staff to whisk toddlers away for playtime, leaving parents to enjoy their meal. That said, Egypt has less specifically child-oriented activities than other countries, and equipment in parks and zoos do not live up to Western safety standards.

To locate accommodations, restaurants, and attractions that are particularly kid-friendly, refer to the "Kids" icon throughout this guide.

Recommended family travel websites include Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an online magazine providing travel tips; TravelWithYourKids.com (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site written by parents for parents, offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children.

Also see Frommer's 500 Places to Take Your Kids Before They Grow Up (John Wiley & Sons, Inc.).

Tips for Women Travelers

Women traveling alone in Egypt face some challenges, and it's important to get the cultural cues correct in order to minimize the hassle and potential problems.

First, recognize that simply by being an unaccompanied woman, you are perceived as potentially available. Second, realize that though Egypt is a highly controlled and repressive society, the West is viewed as free and easy, particularly with regard to matters of sexual relations. Western women are frequently portrayed in the media as promiscuous, and they figure large in the Egyptian-male imagination as the answer to their stifled dreams.

The result is that you will be on the receiving end of a range of comments and invitations in the street, and you may find yourself being crowded and groped in markets and other tight spots. Reports of taxi drivers exposing themselves are not uncommon. Following some simple guidelines can help reduce the problem, if not eliminate it entirely.

Most important, dress conservatively. Bare arms and legs will indicate that you are the loose Westerner of their imagination, and you will find the level of harassment increasing commensurately. Tight jeans and tops are better than shorts and a tank top, but not by much. Best to stick to loose pants or sensible, ankle- or mid-calf-length skirts and frumpy long-sleeved tops.

Avoid eye contact. As much as revealing clothing, this is seen as another signal that you are interested. Unfortunately, so is laughing. Allowing a man to put his hand on you, a liberty that an uninterested Egyptian woman would never allow -- whether on your hand, forearm, or shoulder -- will also indicate to him that you are open to further advances.

Turn the conversation, any conversation, to your family or his family. Ask questions about his children, and invent a husband and several children if you want to avoid being propositioned.

Finally, don't accept food or drink from strangers when alone. Cases of women being drugged and assaulted are not common, but they certainly happen. The most common place for them to happen is on the train and in taxis.

Check out the award-winning website Journeywoman (www.journeywoman.com), a "real life" women's travel-information network where you can sign up for a free e-mail newsletter and get advice on everything from etiquette and dress to safety. The travel guide Safety and Security for Women Who Travel by Sheila Swan and Peter Laufer (Travelers' Tales Guides), offering common-sense tips on safe travel, was updated in 2004.

Tips for Student Travelers

The International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC) (www.istc.org) was formed in 1949 to make travel around the world more affordable for students. Check out its website for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour helpline. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide. If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1904; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Telephones

To call Egypt:

1. Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S. or Canada; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia.

2. Dial the country code, 2.

3. Dial the city code and then the number.

To make international calls: To make international calls from Egypt, first dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next, dial the area code and number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 00-1-202-588-7800.

For directory assistance: The once-disastrous state of directory assistance in Egypt has undergone a miraculous transformation in recent years. Now you can dial 140 and get English-speaking directory assistance for inside Egypt that is accurate and up to date. The same service exists online at www.140online.com, but the numbers are less likely to be up to date. For business phone numbers and addresses, try www.yellowpages.com.eg. For international directory assistance, dial 144.

For operator assistance: If you need operator assistance in making a call, dial 120 if you're trying to make an international call and 140 if you want to call a number in Egypt.

Toll-free numbers: Toll free numbers start with 0800 in Egypt. There is a partial and hard-to-search list of them on the Telecom Egypt site (www.telecomegypt.com.eg/English/Home_FindNumber_aNumSearchFreePhone.asp). Calling an 800 number in the States from Egypt is not toll-free; in fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

In 2007, Cairo phone numbers (city code 02) were changed from 7 to 8 digits. The rule of thumb is, on the west side of the Nile (Giza, Mohandiseen, Agouza, Dokki, and so on), add a 3. On the east side of the river, and in the middle of the river (downtown, Heliopolis, Maadi, Garden City, Zamalek, and Manial), add a 2.

Meanwhile, mobile numbers are all 10 digits and do not need an area code.

Cellphones

The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. In the U.S., T-Mobile and Cingular Wireless use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM; and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. GSM phones function with a removable plastic SIM card, encoded with your phone number and account information. If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone such as many Sony Ericsson, Motorola, or Samsung models, you can make and receive calls across civilized areas around much of the globe. Just call your wireless operator and ask for international roaming to be activated on your account. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high -- usually $1 to $1.50 in Western Europe and up to $5 in places such as Russia and Indonesia.

For many people, renting a phone is a good idea. In Egypt, you will need to buy or rent a handset, buy a phone number, and purchase a prepaid phone credit. Many five-star hotels' business centers rent phones, too. The Conrad and the Four Seasons, for example, will supply you with a handset for around LE125 a day ($23/£12). With a perfectly functional, low-end handset running LE300 to LE600 ($55-$109/£28-£56) on the local market, however, it makes sense just to buy if you're going to need it for more than a couple of days.

SIM cards and phone numbers can be purchased for about LE125 ($23/£12) from almost any store advertising the products of one of the three local mobile service providers: Mobinil, Vodafone, and Etisalat. You will have to give them a copy of your passport and fill out a form.

Prepaid credit, available where you buy your SIM card and phone number, comes in various denominations from LE10 to LE100, and you pay the face value of the card plus about 15%. I usually get the guys in the store to deal with the complicated business of entering the code rather than struggle with the automated voice system in Arabic. Outgoing calls are about LE0.15 (3¢/1p), and incoming calls are free.

North Americans can rent a phone before leaving home from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) or RoadPost (tel. 888/290-1606 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas; simply call tel. 703/222-7161 between 9am and 4pm EST, or go to http://intouchglobal.com/travel.htm.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Egyptians have a somewhat schizophrenic attitude toward homosexuality. On the one hand, homosexuality is considered deviant and gay men are discriminated against; on the other hand, sexual relations between men are often ignored as harmless.

The upside of the situation is that gay men can enjoy a variety of casual sexual encounters with relative ease. The downside is that, once identified as a homosexual, a visitor may experience discrimination and face problems with the police.

Lesbians, meanwhile, have no public profile as a group, and there is no "scene" as such. Because of this, couples can hold hands in public -- this is what friends do in Egypt -- but any further display of affection is not recommended.

You should also be aware that the security services actively work against the gay community. Cases of entrapment followed by detention and torture are regularly documented by human rights groups such as Human Rights Watch. Websites such as www.gayegypt.com are routinely monitored by the security services, and chat groups are used to set up fake meetings.

Gay Egypt (www.gayegypt.com) details cruising locations in many of Egypt's main cities. Much of the information appears to be dated, but it should still provide some useful leads as well as still-relevant warnings of the dangers. The site www.arab-gay.com has an active travel section, and the more journalistically inclined Gay Middle East has an interesting Egypt section (www.gaymiddleeast.com/country/Egypt).

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) (tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators.

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Above and Beyond Tours (tel. 800/397-2681; www.abovebeyondtours.com) are gay Australia tour specialists. San Francisco-based Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) offers worldwide trips and cruises, and Olivia (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com) offers lesbian cruises and resort vacations.

Gay.com Travel (tel. 800/929-2268 or 415/644-8044; www.gay.com/travel or www.outandabout.com), is an excellent online successor to the popular Out & About print magazine. It provides regularly updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in every important destination worldwide. British travelers should click on the "Travel" link at www.uk.gay.com for advice and gay-friendly trip ideas.

The Canadian website GayTraveler (www.gaytraveler.ca) offers ideas and advice for gay travel all over the world.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide, 35th Edition (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide); Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner, 17th Edition (www.odyusa.com); and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.

Tips for Single Travelers

On package vacations, single travelers are often hit with a "single supplement" to the base price. To avoid it, you can agree to room with other single travelers or find a compatible roommate before you go, from one of the many roommate-locator agencies.

Canadian-based Connecting Single Travel Companions (tel. 604/886-9099; www.cstn.org) runs personal ads on its website from single travelers looking for companions; it also offers useful links to other sites.

TravelChums (tel. 212/787-2621; www.travelchums.com) is another Internet-only travel-companion matching service with elements of an online personals-type site, hosted by the respected New York-based Shaw Guides travel service.

Many tour companies offer singles-only trips. Singles Travel Company (tel. 888/286-8687; www.singlestravelcompany.com) offers budget-oriented singles-only escorted tours to places like Italy, Belize, and Egypt. All Singles Travel (tel. 800/717 3231; www.allsinglestravel.com) arranges Egypt tours with good hotels and possible extensions to see Israel as well. Backroads (tel. 800/462-2848; www.backroads.com) offers "Singles + Solos" active-travel trips to destinations worldwide.

For more information, check out Eleanor Berman's classic Traveling Solo: Advice and Ideas for More Than 250 Great Vacations, 5th Edition (Globe Pequot), updated in 2005.

Health & Safety

Staying Healthy

Public health standards are low in Egypt, with little government investment in programs to improve it. Eating in restaurants that do not regularly serve foreign clientele or drinking water that has not come from a well-sealed bottle is asking for a bout of traveler's diarrhea or worse (including cholera and hepatitis). Most problems are easily avoided by following a few simple rules:

• Only drink bottled water. If the water doesn't taste right, even if it was unsealed in front of you, send it back and get another.

• Eat in restaurants with a high volume of foreigners whenever possible, particularly expats. Word gets around quickly when someone gets sick.

• Avoid the muddy banks of the Nile and other waterways. Schistosomiasis, or bilharzia, a parasitic disease caused by flatworms that live close to shore, remains a problem in Egypt.

General Availability of Healthcare

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT) (tel. 716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

Common Ailments

Tropical Illnesses -- There is a very limited risk of P. falciparum and P. vivax malaria in the oasis of Fayum during the summer months (June-Oct). It has been a decade since any indigenous case was reported, but you should still use a good insect repellant and a mosquito net at night if you are visiting the oasis during these months. Antimalarial medications are not recommended by the World Health Organization for tourists planning to visit Fayum.

Egypt's first confirmed case of the H5N1 strain of avian flu was back in March 2006. By July 2007, there had been 37 more cases and 15 fatalities. These outbreaks will occur periodically as long as Egypt's standards of public hygiene remain low and people and livestock intermix freely. Travelers should check the news and the websites of the World Health Organization (www.who.int/countries/egy/en) and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (wwwn.cdc.gov/travel/destinationEgypt.aspx) for updates before traveling. Note that in the event of a serious outbreak, acquiring Western medical supplies in Egypt would be extremely difficult.

Dietary Red Flags -- Tap water in Egypt is not potable and should be avoided. Only drink bottled water from a sealed bottle, and if you have doubts about the contents, get another one. This is not usually a problem, as upmarket and tourist restaurants will automatically provide bottled water. In private homes, you may be offered glasses of tap water. Particularly outside a big city, in any kind of rural settings, these are best politely refused.

Fresh fruit juice from the street-side juice shops are a judgment call but generally best avoided. Sniff the air inside the shop and make your choice.

Green salads are best avoided as well, even in high-end hotels. Not only are they often washed in contaminated water, but they can contain bacteria because of agricultural practices. Also avoid fruit that you have not peeled yourself, and chicken and eggs that have not been thoroughly cooked.

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- There is rabies in Egypt and care should be exercised not only with wildlife, but semi-domestic animals such as cats and dogs.

The deserts of Egypt contain a variety of poisonous insects and snakes. Take care when hiking; wear closed-toe shoes, and don't go reaching into nooks and crannies. Turn over rocks with a stick and watch where you're putting your feet. Choose your guide with care, and make sure that he has received at least basic first-aid training and knows what to do in the event of emergencies.

Mosquitoes and a variety of other biting insects may not be life-threatening, but they can certainly spoil the fun. Five-star resorts spray heavily for insects and keep rooms pristine. If you are staying in midrange or budget-range accommodations, I recommend having some good bug repellant handy, as well as a can of insecticide. It's best to bring the repellant with you, but there are a variety of lethal sprays available on the local market, including Raid.

Respiratory Illnesses -- Air quality is a serious problem in Egypt -- in Cairo, in particular. Some government sources say that the situation has improved in recent years, but levels of lead and particulate in the capital still often exceed even relatively lax domestic standards and are frequently several times the amounts considered safe under international standards. Tourists with asthma or other respiratory problems should limit the amount of time they spend in Cairo.

Sun/Elements/Extreme Weather Exposure -- Heat stroke and excessive sun are both potential problems in Egypt, particularly during the summer months. You should be prepared with sunblock, a good sun hat, and a way to replace electrolytes lost to sweating, such as oral rehydration salts, which are available over the counter at almost any Egyptian pharmacy for around LE1 (18?/9p) a dose.

AIDS -- Figures differ on the number of HIV/AIDS cases in Egypt. UNAIDS estimated there to be about 5,300 people living with HIV in Egypt in 2006. It seems likely that the number of cases is underreported, however, given the social stigma associated with AIDS, the low awareness of preventive measures among IV-drug users and other high-risk groups, and the difficulty involved in obtaining anonymous testing. Condoms are readily available in pharmacies.

What to Do if You Get Sick Away From Home

We list the best private clinics and hospitals in Cairo in the "Fast Facts" section, but keep in mind that even here, service is well below Western standards.

At any hospital in Egypt, you will be expected to pay upfront and in cash for any treatment. Keep this in mind in the event of an emergency -- arriving at the clinic with your wallet is very important.

Medicare and Medicaid do not provide coverage for medical costs outside the U.S. Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance.

Very few health insurance plans pay for medical evacuation back to the U.S. (which can cost $10,000 and up). A number of companies offer medical evacuation services anywhere in the world. If you're ever hospitalized more than 150 miles from home, MedjetAssist (tel. 800/527-7478; www.medjetassistance.com) will pick you up and fly you to the hospital of your choice virtually anywhere in the world in a medically equipped and staffed aircraft 24 hours day, 7 days a week. Annual memberships are $225 individual, $350 family; you can also purchase short-term memberships.

U.K. nationals will need a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) to receive free or reduced-cost health benefits during a visit to a European Economic Area (EEA) country (European Union countries, plus Iceland, Liechtenstein, and Norway) or Switzerland. The European Health Insurance Card replaces the E111 form, which is no longer valid. For advice, ask at your local post office or see www.dh.gov.uk/travellers.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name. Try to avoid buying prescription drugs in Egypt (even if they are dramatically cheaper than back home), as the quality control of drug production is not guaranteed.

Safety

Staying Safe -- One of the enormous advantages that Egypt offers visitors is that it is generally very safe when it comes to petty crime. Independent travelers and groups alike can wander at will, exploring deserted temples and crowded tourist sites without worrying about anything other than being overcharged for souvenirs and taxi rides. On the other hand, there is the potential for problems with home-grown terrorist attacks. It has been a number of years since there's been an incident in Upper Egypt, but the same is not true for the Sinai and Cairo. There were a series of shootings and bombings targeting the tourism industry in Cairo and on the Sinai Peninsula in 2005 and 2006. The government now overstates the problem in Cairo and Upper Egypt for political reasons, but it is quite possibly understating them in the medium to long term on the Sinai Peninsula. The politically and economically repressive conditions that gave rise to the 2005 and 2006 attacks have not been ameliorated, and the heavy-handed security response will probably prove counterproductive.

In terms of street crime and random violence, Egypt is a remarkably safe country. Although there is potential for violence, it takes a lot of provocation and occurs in areas and situations that tourists are unlikely to encounter.

Women in particular, however, will find themselves subject to a high level of verbal harassment in public areas. In more crowded areas, this will escalate to groping, and in less crowded areas to self-exposure.

For both men and women, personal safety is based on the usual rules. Keep away from street fights -- absent a professional civil police force, these can turn nasty quickly and tempers can run pretty hot in Egypt. It is highly unlikely for a foreigner to be consciously targeted, but collateral damage is always a possibility. Avoid badly lit, deserted places after dark. Most heavily touristed areas are fine at all times of day and night.

The threat to personal safety from political instability is low. Cairo has seen sporadic, usually low-key, demonstrations by various pro-democracy and reform groups in recent years, and these are best avoided. The government routinely deploys plainclothes operatives to harass and intimidate, and there is a very real risk to locals and foreigners alike of being assaulted by the police in the vicinity of these demonstrations. Women perceived as being involved in the demonstration are particularly at risk, as security forces have been known to sexually assault female participants as a way of discouraging further participation.

In any dealing with the police in Egypt, keep in mind that this is not the kind of coherent, professional organization that you expect in the West. Officer and management positions are assigned by social class and connection, and lower positions are not paid a living wage. Corruption is rife. If you find yourself on the wrong side of the law, do not hesitate to buy yourself out of trouble either directly or through the mediation of a lawyer. At its most basic, this will involve paying a few pounds to a traffic cop for parking your car in a no-parking zone (which is most of Cairo). For more serious problems, your focus will be getting out of the country (with the assistance of your embassy's consular section, if needed).

That said, law enforcement agencies will generally work hard to accommodate foreigners when they have a problem. Don't expect any actual police work in the event of a theft or accident, but they should be able to provide a friendly face, a glass of tea, and pro-forma services such as a police report for insurance purposes.

Drugs such as a hashish and cannabis are officially illegal, and penalties, at least in theory, are harsh. Signs at the airport warn of severe penalties for drug possession and trafficking in Egypt. In practice, the situation is a little murkier. Though it is generally only Egyptian nationals and non-tourist foreigners who get into serious trouble for drug offenses, any kind of involvement in illegalities can leave you open to blackmail and a host of other best-avoided entanglements.

The traffic is perhaps the greatest routine threat to personal safety in Egypt. Extreme care should be exercised in crossing the road and in driving. Highways are particularly dangerous, and unless you have high confidence in your driving ability, you should hire a driver from a reputable firm. Avoid driving outside the city at night.

Many governments maintain advisory pages online that provide useful, up-to-date information on everything from the potential for political instability to the latest outbreaks of avian flu. See "Travel Warnings" in the "Online Traveler's Toolbox" later in this chapter. Registration with your country's embassy in Cairo can also help consular officials warn you of problems and contact you in the event of a situation back home.

Dealing With Discrimination

Egypt remains, unfortunately, a society in which racism and sexism is both prevalent and acceptable.

Egyptians are particularly biased toward other Africans, whom they regard as inferior both socially and economically. African-American visitors, even holding their U.S. passport in their hands and speaking English, will probably find problems getting past security at some restaurants and hotels, and African-American women have reported higher-than-average levels of sexual harassment.

Asians, or people who look Asian, will find a different set of problems. Over the last 10 years, an increasing number of economic migrants from China have drawn the attention of Egyptian authorities. Generally the attitude of people in the street will tend more toward parochial curiosity than outright discrimination, but police will tend to be suspicious of independent travelers, and tourists may be subject to random document checks and searches.

There is also a degree of anti-Western feeling in Egypt, which has been substantially increased by the 2004 invasion of Iraq and subsequent "War on Terror." On the whole, however, individual Egyptians recognize the difference between government policies and the intentions of citizens, and it is unlikely that resentments will be visited on individual travelers.

Similarly, though there is a high degree of acceptance of anti-Semitism in Egypt, it is rare for it to be visited on individual Jewish people.

Clothing, not surprisingly, is a major factor in how you will find yourself being treated in Egypt. When possible, smart-casual clothes are best: dress pants and long-sleeved shirts for men, long skirts or loose pants and long sleeves for women. This, of course, isn't always practical while traveling, but men should avoid shorts and tank tops, and women will experience elevated levels of harassment in direct proportion to the amount of skin they bare.

This also applies, though to a lesser degree, in the big resort towns such as Sharm el Sheikh or Hurghada. Resorts with private beaches have rigidly enforced rules regarding local access and staff who are accustomed to Western clothing habits, but the same only applies to a limited degree on the streets outside the resort walls. Here you will be under the assumption that Westerners are rich but morally lax. This will only be intensified by low-cut shirts, shorts, or tight pants.

Fast Facts

American Express -- Cairo: 33 Nabil El Waqad St., Ard El Golf, Heliopolis (tel. 02/24130293/4/5 or 02/26909129; fax 02/26909131), and 15 Kasr El Nil St. (tel. 02/25747991/2; fax 02/25747997). Alexandria: 14 May St., Madenat El Sayadla, Semouha (tel. 03/4241050, 4290800, or 4282021; fax 03/4241020). Luxor: Winter Palace Hotel (tel. 095/2378333; fax 095/2372862). Aswan: Kornish El Nil Street (tel. 097/2306983; fax 097/2302909).

Area Codes -- Cairo: 02. Alexandria: 03. Aswan: 097. Luxor: 095. Fayum: 084. Hurghada 062. Marsa Matruh: 046. Siwa, Baherya, Farafra, Dakhla, and Kharga: 092.

Business Hours -- You have to accept that, in Egypt, businesses are open when they're open. Posted hours should be considered guidelines, not hard and fast rules, and you should expect most places to open a little late, and sometimes close a little early as well. Banks are open from 9am to 2pm, and quite frequently in the evening from 5 to 7pm. Stores generally open between 9 or 10am and stay open until between 7 and 10pm. Small grocery stores are open the longest hours, and you can expect to find a box of milk or a pack of cigarettes easily at midnight. Restaurants tend to stay open from midmorning until late at night.

Customs -- What You Can Bring into Egypt -- Egypt imposes large import duties on electronics, including cameras, stereos, and laptop computers. There is no problem bringing in items for personal use, but if you're traveling with diving equipment, a laptop, or extensive video or photographic equipment, you may find yourself required to register them upon entry. This will actually reduce your hassle on exit, as it makes it easy to prove that you haven't sold anything during your visit.

Only LE5,000 ($909/#463) can be brought into (or taken out of) the country, which shouldn't be an issue given the ease with which you can exchange money inside the country and the bad rate of exchange outside of Egypt. Foreign currencies to a value of $10,000 can be brought in.

Duty-free allowance on arrival is:

1. 200 cigarettes, 25 cigars, or 200 grams of tobacco

2. One liter of alcoholic beverages

3. A reasonable quantity of perfume and 1 liter of eau de cologne

4. Noncommercial articles up to a value of LE100 ($18/#9.25)

5. Personal items such as hair dryers and razors

Interestingly, these allowances are made "irrespective of age." Prohibited items include birds (live, stuffed, or frozen), Viagra, antiques, narcotics, cotton, and "items offensive to Islam."

What You Can Take Home from Egypt: You cannot export more than LE5,000 ($909/#463) or an equivalent of more than $10,000 in any foreign currency. You are also not allowed to take out drugs, food, silver, or gold bought on the local market (these last two have an exception for "very small quantities for personal use"). Note that at the time of writing there was a blanket ban on bringing any kind of bird back from Egypt to the United States.

U.S. Citizens: For specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel," and then click on "Know Before You Go! Online Brochure.") Or, contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667) and request the pamphlet.

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult its website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Drugstores -- There is no shortage of drugstores (saydeleya in Arabic) in Egypt, and they're found in every neighborhood selling everything from shampoo to antibiotics. Most of their products are available over the counter. Pharmacists are also relatively well trained in Egypt and are commonly used for a wide range of medical advice. Additionally, many drugstores will deliver.

Seif Pharmacy is a well-regarded local business with branches all over Cairo. If they don't have what you need, they can tell you which store has it and have it delivered if you want. Branches include: Kasr el Aini Street, downtown (tel. 02/27942678); Manial el Rouda, Manial (tel. 02/23624505); Degla Street, Mohandiseen (tel. 02/37489923); El Koba Street, Heliopolis (tel. 02/24507185); and Midan el Mahata, Maadi (tel. 02/3593846).

Electricity -- Electrical current is 220 volts in Egypt. Plugs are European-style, with two prongs. There are very few grounded circuits in Egypt, so it is particularly important that you turn off the power to appliances such as washing machines before touching them. Adapters are readily available for two-pronged North American plugs.

Embassies & Consulates -- U.S. Embassy, 8 Kamal El Din Salah St., Garden City, Cairo (tel. 02/27973300; consularcairo@state.gov); British Embassy, 7 Ahmed Ragab St., Garden City, Cairo (tel. 02/27940852; info@britishembassy.org.eg); Canadian Embassy, 26 Kamel el Shenawy, Garden City, Cairo (tel. 02/27918700; cairo@dfait-maeci.gc.ca); Australian Embassy, 11th Floor of the World Trade Center, Corniche el Nile, Boulac, Cairo (tel. 02/25740444; cairo.austremb@dfat.gov.au).

Emergencies -- For the police, dial tel.122; fire, 180; or ambulance, 123.

Etiquette & Customs -- Appropriate Attire: Egyptians place a lot of stock in dressing well in informal situations, and a good pair of slacks and a few long-sleeved shirts should come with you on your holiday. For women, loose-fitting long-sleeved shirts and trousers or long skirts are the best choice. In mosques, you will be expected to take off your shoes, and women will be expected to cover their heads. Unless you expect to visit a lot of mosques, the issue of lace-ups versus slip-ons isn't very important, but you should have socks without holes. Women should carry a light scarf.

Gestures: Meeting and greeting are important ceremonies in Egypt. Shake hands, introduce yourself, and take a moment to get to know people, even if you don't expect to see them ever again. Your left hand is left out of social occasions, for the most part, and once the introductions are out of the way and everyone is sitting down, be careful to keep your feet pointed at (or, better, firmly planted on) the floor. The soles of your shoes are unclean, and it is offensive to point them or even show them. Platonic same-sex friends often hold hands in the street, but it is quite daring for men and women to do so. Cheek-kissing and hugging are de rigueur displays of respect and warmth between men and women, but any kind of public displays of affection are highly inappropriate between couples.

There are few gestures that will cause offense by misinterpretation, but pointing at someone with your finger is disrespectful. Generally Arabs have a richer gesture vocabulary than Westerners and are far more familiar with our signs than we are with theirs.

Avoiding Offense: Egyptians are easy-going and socially skillful, making genuine offense difficult to cause in the first place and easily worked through if it does happen. Religion can be a touchy subject but can be discussed as long as you keep in mind that Sunnis are as used to being members of the socially dominant religion as Christians, Jews, or Hindus are in their countries, and, as such, make the same basic assumptions of universal superiority and correctness as many members of other religions do. Muslims generally see more in common between Judaism, Christianity, and Islam than they do to divide them. Politics can also be discussed, but keep in mind that the Egyptian government doesn't look favorably on its citizens when they criticize the state, and you can inadvertently put people in an uncomfortable position when discussing internal matters. On the other hand, if you're talking international politics, expect a heated argument if you set out to defend positions contrary to the accepted wisdom.

Punctuality is a loose concept in Egypt. It is fine to be 30 minutes late for a social engagement, but on the other hand, Egyptians try to make a point of being on time for foreigners.

Obscenity, whether casual or pointed in either English or Arabic, is inappropriate until you know people well. The same goes for passing comment on women (odd, considering the casual and habitual level of harassment) and absent acquaintances.

Eating & Drinking: A small gift is always appreciated when visiting someone's home. A small bouquet of flowers or a box of sweets are generally appropriate gifts. It goes without saying that in a Muslim country, showing up at someone's house for dinner with a bottle of wine will produce much laughter or an awkward silence.

Business Etiquette: Unlike social appointments, business meetings are held as close to the set time as possible. Handshaking and exchanging business cards are the norm. Expect water, tea, coffee, and sweets to be served. Also expect a lot of smoking.

Photography: Photographing anything official, from the traffic policeman to government buildings and even bridges, will usually prompt an official warning and in many cases some kind of attempt to seize your film and camera. Disorganized and ineffective security arrangements, on the other hand, generally mean you can get away with it if you're willing to ignore the shouting and walk away quickly. Actual military installations are where you should draw the line, and in no circumstances should you take an obvious photo of a military officer.

Further Reading:

• The Global Etiquette Guide to Africa and the Middle East (John Wiley & Sons, Inc.)

• Kiss, Bow or Shake Hands: How to Do Business in 60 Countries (Adams Media)

• Culture Shock! A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette (Marshall Cavendish Corporation)

Holidays -- Islamic feast days and religious holidays follow the lunar calendar, and so the exact dates on which they fall may vary by a day or two; they will fall back 11 days each year against the Gregorian calendar used in the West. Holidays for 2009 are Islamic New Year (approximately Jan 1); Mulid an Nabi, birthday of the Prophet Mohamed (approximately Mar 10); Sinai Liberation Day (Apr 25); Shem an Nessim/Easter (Apr 27); Labor Day (May 1); Revolution Day (July 23); Ramadan (approximately Aug 26th-Sept 23); Eid el Fitr (approximately Oct 23-25); Armed Forces Day (Oct 6); Eid al Adha (approximately Nov 30-Dec 1); Victory Day (Dec 23); Islamic New Year (approximately Dec 19).

Hospitals -- The following hospitals provide an ambulance service: Al Salam Hospital, 3 Syria St., Mohandiseen (tel. 02/33030502 reception, or 02/33034780 ambulance); Al Shorouk Hospital, 5 Bahr el Ghazal St., Mohandiseen (tel. 02/33044891 or 02/33044901 reception, 02/33459941 or 02/33044901 ext 103 or 105 ambulance); Nile Badrawi Hospital, Nile Corniche, Maadi (tel. 02/25240022 reception, or 02/25240212 ambulance); New Kasr el Aini Teaching Hospital, Kasr el Aini Street, Garden City (tel. 02/23654060 or 02/23654061 reception, 02/23654045 or 02/23654101 ambulance). For medical helicopter service (with a doctor and nurse), call tel. 02/24184531 or 02/24184537 24 hours.

Internet Access -- Most cafes have free Wi-Fi access, and small Internet cafes abound. In Cairo, Zamalek and Mohandiseen are the most wired-up neighborhoods. Most smaller centers feature hole-in-the-wall Internet shops where you can check your e-mail for LE2 to LE10 (35?-$1.80/20p-90p) per hour.

Language -- English is widely understood around Cairo and in tourist hotels and restaurants throughout the country, but off the beaten track and in smaller towns it is relatively rare to find functional English speakers. A Pocket Dictionary of the Spoken Arabic of Cairo (AUC Press) is an excellent and convenient linguistic companion to exploring Egypt.

Laundromats -- Self-service laundromats are extremely rare in Egypt. Instead, you will find small laundry shops, usually tucked away on a side street. The service is cheap but can be slow (reckon on a 24-hour turnaround unless you can get a specific commitment to be quicker). Shrinkage is not usually a problem, but broken buttons from overly enthusiastic ironing is common.

Legal Aid -- Tourists who find themselves in legal entanglements should immediately contact the consular department of their embassy in Cairo for advice. Although there is often little that embassy staff can do directly to help, they will provide references for lawyers and can help to ensure that legal procedures are followed.

Liquor Laws -- Egyptian liquor laws are obscure and unevenly applied. Most bars and stores frequented by foreigners, however, have well-posted policies of not serving or selling to anyone under 18. Local beer, wine, and hard liquor can be purchased at Drinkies chain outlets and a dwindling number of independently operated outlets. Drinkies also delivers (tel. 19330).

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen, and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two.

To report lost or stolen credit cards in Egypt, call: Visa (tel. 410/581-9994), Mastercard (tel. 636/722-7111), or American Express (tel. 19327).

If you need emergency cash over the weekend, when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com).

Mail -- Egyptian post offices are not swift, but they are a reliable way of sending postcards and letters home. A card will cost LE1.50 (25?/15p) to destinations in the U.S., Canada, Australia, and England. Envelopes of 50 grams or less will cost LE3.5 to LE5.5 (60?-$1/30p-50p) depending on the destination.

Medical Clinics -- Shaalan Surgicenter, 10 Abd el Hamid Lotfi St., Mohandiseen. Outpatient clinic (around the corner), 11 al Anaab St., Mohandiseen, open 9am to 10pm daily except Friday. Clinic tel. 02/37605180, 02/37482577, 0122263606, or 0101050571. Surgery 02/37603920 or 02/33387648. Degla Medical Center, 4 St. 2003, Degla, Maadi (tel. 02/5213156 or 02/2523157), open 9am to 10pm daily except Friday.

Newspapers and Magazines -- The newsstands on 26th of July Street and bookstores in Cairo stock a variety of international magazines and newspapers. Expect daily newspapers to be 1 day late, and save 50% on weekly magazines by buying them one week late from independent newsstands.

Local Media There are a variety of English-language newspapers and magazines in Egypt, but none of them are very good. You are better off reading about Egypt in the international media.

Newspapers: Al Ahram Weekly (http://weekly.ahram.org.eg) is the major English-language publication in Egypt, at least measured by print run, but it is closely associated with the government, and its thin coverage of domestic issues rarely strays off the government message. The Egyptian Gazette (www.algomhuria.net.eg/gazette/1) is a thin daily newspaper also closely associated with the government. Widely distributed in tourist hotels throughout the country, it is sometimes worth a laugh for its disastrously badly translated crime pages. The Daily News (www.egyptdailynews.com) is the closest thing to an independent English-language newspaper in Egypt and the best bet for local news coverage. The News comes bundled with the International Herald Tribune.

Magazines: Egypt Today (www.egypttoday.com) is the biggest English-language magazine in Egypt. Close editorial identification with the government undermines the credibility of its political coverage, but lifestyle features and listings are good enough if you can find a complimentary copy. The same company produces Travel Today, Business Today, and Horus (the not-very-good EgyptAir in-flight magazine). Business Monthly is the publication of the American Chamber of Commerce in Cairo (www.amcham.org.eg) and is the best business-focused publication available. Community Times has lifestyle coverage of interest to expats.

Other publications with titles such as Enigma, Ego, and Teen Stuff cover fashion and youth issues for a young local audience.

Passports -- Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 3 weeks but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.

For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/272-525) or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from the website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Restrooms -- The best bet for restrooms in Egypt is to head for the nearest tourist-class hotel. If there's nothing in sight, the next best option is a Western-style fast-food operation or a cafe. In my experience, McDonald's and Costa Coffee have the best, followed by Pizza Hut, Hardees, and KFC.

Smoking -- Egyptians smoke everywhere. Quite a few tourist facilities are now establishing nonsmoking zones, but this is unheard of in the rest of the country, so feel free to light up in the bank, at the doctor's office, or in the elevator.

Taxes -- Tourist services are generally taxed at about 22%, which is often referred to as the "plus plus" because it is made up of "plus" 10% tax and "plus" 12% service. The exact makeup of the "plus plus" varies between municipalities, and in some places is now "plus plus plus."

Time Zone -- Egypt is GMT+2, which means GMT+3 when daylight saving time (DST) is in effect. DST comes into effect in the last week of April and ceases to be in effect in the last week of September.

Tipping -- The general rule for tipping in Egypt is simple: When in doubt, tip. Tip drivers (except for taxi drivers, whom you pay by the ride), waiters, bellhops, and guides. Tip anyone who performs a service for you (shows you to your seat on a train or opens an extra door at the museum), and tip those who haven't done anything directly but ask for it anyway (often the case with street sweepers). How much depends on circumstances and service -- a bellhop in a $400-per-night hotel who gives good services should be slipped LE50 ($9.10/#4.60) or more, while waiters should receive a percentage of the bill that reflects the quality of the service. Being provided extra access at monuments or museums is worth LE5 (90?/45p) at most, on the other hand. Bathroom attendants are well served with LE1 (20?/9p), as are street sweepers and anyone else looking for a handout.

Useful Phone Numbers -- U.S. Department of State Travel Advisory (tel. 202/647-5225 manned 24 hours), U.S. Passport Agency (tel. 202/647-0518), U.S. Centers for Disease Control International Traveler's Hotline (tel. 404/332-4559).

Water -- Tap water in Egypt is not generally suitable for drinking. Bottled water costs about LE1 to LE2 (18?-36?/9p-19p).

Tips on Accommodations

Accommodations in Egypt run the gamut from flea-pit to palatial, and an enormous number of choices exist throughout the country. Despite the numbers, however, value for money can be a little hard to find.

At the palatial end of the market, there has been a huge, and often slapdash, investment in holiday resort-style facilities -- big glitzy hotels designed to live up to a not-always-realistic idea of what luxury-loving Westerners want when they come on holiday. At the low end, the emphasis has been on delivering the cheapest beds to backpackers, with little thought to cleanliness, let alone quality. There is relatively little midrange quality to be had, and while second-rate resorts abound, few hotels deliver either a first-rate resort experience or a truly Egyptian sense of place and culture.

That said, every city has its gems, and with careful perusal of this guide, you can now visit most parts of the country and be well accommodated on a variety of budgets.

Egyptian hotels are rated by the Ministry of Tourism on the basis of a star system. The rankings are complicated and obscure, and they're based on size, facilities, and service; they aren't very useful in deciding which hotel to stay at.

At the two-star end of the spectrum (don't consider anything less), you are guaranteed a hotel with 30 rooms or more. At the four- and five-star end, you are guaranteed a large hotel with two dining rooms, at least one bar, a swimming pool, elevators, and Internet access. You are not, however, guaranteed decent service or good food in any of them.

At the upper end of the market, foreign-run chains dominate and offer substantially better service than their scarce domestic competition. Prices in these hotels are quoted and charged in dollars (only Egyptians pay in local currency at a substantial discount, usually around 50%), and all services in the hotel (including meals and drinks) are taxed at about 24.5%. Rack rates in these hotels run around $100 (#51/LE550) to $500 (#255/LE2,750) per night for a double. Note: Most tourist-class hotels (and all international chains) in Egypt only accept payment in "hard currency." As you go downmarket, you'll notice increasing flexibility on this point, but if you only have local currency, check before you check in. Prices in LE are provided for comparison only.

At the middle and lower end of the market, however, prices -- which range from $20 to $80 (#10-#41/LE110-LE440) for a midrange facility -- usually include taxes and often breakfast as well. This is a good negotiating point. If you're quoted a price that doesn't include taxes, try for one that does, and tell them to throw in breakfast, too. Here are the major chains in Egypt:

• Accor/Sofitel specializes in blandly renovated heritage properties such as the Old Winter Palace in Luxor, the Cataract in Aswan, and the Cecil in Alexandria. These hotels are generally overpriced for the level of service.

• Four Seasons has four hotels (two in Cairo, one in Alexandria, and one in Sharm el Sheikh), and is possibly the best chain in Egypt. Its hotels are well designed and well run with an emphasis on seamless, understated service.

• Hyatt's Cairo property goes all out to impress with its cavernous, glitzy lobby but follows up with characterless, overpriced rooms. The chain's Sinai resorts, however, are top-notch. The Hyatt in Sharm el Sheikh, embracing a little water park that tumbles down to the Red Sea, is one of my favorite hotels in the area.

• Marriott's Egypt hotels are generic, cookie-cutter properties for the most part, but they make up for lack of character with professional service and above-average food. The exception is the Cairo Marriott, which has some character but below-average food.

• The Meridien hotels in Egypt rise considerably above their Accor siblings, and feature some of the most stylish decor in the country. If snappy color schemes matter to you, forget the Four Seasons and head to the Meridien.

• Once you get outside Cairo, Movenpick's facilities are usually the best in town. This certainly holds true for its resorts in Quseir and Aswan.

• Oberoi competes with the Four Seasons in terms of price, and wins hands down on location with a hotel next to the pyramids in Giza and one on a long, lovely sweep of beach south of Hurghada. Unless you like Indian food, the menu tends to be mediocre, but everything else is perfect.

• Pyramisa is a chain to avoid. Some of the facilities look great on paper, and some (like the Isis Island resort in Aswan) are fun, but facilities are second rate, and the food can be truly bad.

Money

It's always advisable to bring money in a variety of forms on a vacation: a mix of cash, credit cards, and traveler's checks. American and Canadian dollars, pounds sterling, and euros are all easily exchanged in Egypt, and Cairo International Airport has a number of 24-hour banks that give the same rates as in town. It's easy to exchange enough on arrival to cover tips and the cost of transport into town.

ATMs, once a rarity in Egypt, are now common in large cities and tourist destinations. While they offer good rates of exchange, some networks also charge hefty transaction fees. Check with your bank before leaving home.

Unlike exchange bureaus in many countries, most of the exchange offices (maktab sarafa) in Egypt offer competitive rates. They also offer longer hours and quicker service.

Hotels, however, offer bad rates of exchange and should be avoided except in emergencies.

There has been no black market for hard currencies in Egypt for several years and therefore no advantage to changing on the street.

Currency

You will find Egypt cheap compared to any Western country. Like most third-world countries, however, Western goods are available in major centers, but usually at prices that are well beyond the reach of most of the working population. In fact, you will find various services, including midrange and upper-range accommodation, priced in "hard currency" (U.S. dollars or euros, generally) rather than Egyptian pounds (LE), therefore, the Egyptian pound pricing for some accommodations is for reference only.

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine), sometimes referred to as a "cash machine" or a "cashpoint." The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe and are easy to access in all major tourist spots in Egypt. Go to your bankcard's website to find ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Note: Banks that are members of the Global ATM Alliance charge no transaction fees for cash withdrawals at other Alliance member ATMs; these include Bank of America, Scotiabank (Canada, Caribbean, and Mexico), Barclays (U.K. and parts of Africa), Deutsche Bank (Germany, Poland, Spain, and Italy), and BNP Paribas (France).

Credit Cards

Credit cards are another safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, but high fees make credit-card cash advances a pricey way to get cash. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).

Most mid- and high-end tourist hotels will accept major credit cards, with Visa and MasterCard having the widest acceptance in Egypt. American Express is less commonly accepted but still useful in higher-end facilities. Diner's Club is rarely accepted in Egypt. The majority of restaurants and shops remain cash-only.

Traveler's Checks

Most banks and many change offices will cash traveler's checks, albeit at a less advantageous rate than cash. Midrange and upper-range tourist hotels also generally provide facilities for cashing traveler's checks and make it possible to settle your bill with them.

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. They are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233 or tel. 800/221-7282 for card holders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322) -- AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378; and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

Be sure to keep a record of the traveler's check serial numbers separate from your checks in case they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

American Express, Thomas Cook, Visa, and MasterCard offer foreign currency traveler's checks, useful if you're traveling to one country or to the euro zone; they're accepted at locations where dollar checks may not be.

Another option is the new prepaid traveler's check cards, reloadable cards that work much like debit cards but aren't linked to your checking account. The American Express Travelers Cheque Card, for example, requires a minimum deposit, sets a maximum balance, and has a one-time issuance fee of $15. You can withdraw money from an ATM (for a fee of $2.50 per transaction, not including bank fees), and the funds can be purchased in dollars, euros, or pounds. If you lose the card, your available funds will be refunded within 24 hours.

Tips for Senior Travelers

The idea of student discounts is now well rooted in Egypt, but the idea of similar discounts for seniors is unfortunately not. Egyptians are, however, on the whole more respectful to their elders, but expect respect rather than discounts.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP: The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) arranges worldwide study programs for those age 55 and over. ElderTreks (tel. 800/741-7956 or 416/558-5000 outside North America; www.eldertreks.com) offers small-group tours to off-the-beaten-path or adventure-travel locations, restricted to travelers 50 and older.

Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include: the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com) and the bestselling paperback Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can't Get Unless You're Over 50 2007-2008 McGraw-Hill), by Joann Rattner Heilman.

Tips on Dining

I have divided restaurants throughout the book into four categories. Very Expensive meals are LE150 ($27/£14) or more, Expensive meals are LE100 ($18/£9.25) or more, Moderate meals are between LE50 to LE80 ($9.10-$15/£4.65-£7.40), and Inexpensive meals range from LE25 to LE50 ($4.55-$9.10/£2.30-£4.65).

Meal Times

Egyptians are enthusiastic about their meals and are ready to tuck into food at almost anytime of the day. Formal meal times, however, tend to be later than we are used to in the West, with the main meal of the day happening in the middle of the afternoon or sometimes being put off until after work (around 3 or 4pm), and dinner times as late as 9 or 10pm.

During the month of Ramadan, of course, this changes entirely, with a light sohour meal eaten just before sunrise (which makes it either a late dinner or an early breakfast) and the enormous iftar (literally "breakfast") happening just after sundown.

Tipping

Most restaurants will automatically add a 12% service charge to the bill, but most people will leave another 5% to 8% in cash on the understanding that the staff probably never sees the service charge.

Local Dishes

Breakfast is usually a selection of flatbread and eggs, often with a side dish of fuul (simmered fava beans).

Lunch is usually the main meal of the day, in which meat is served. Families often sit down together immediately after work (which ends a lot earlier in the day than in the West but may be supplemented by a return to the office or shop in the evening) around 3 or 4pm for plates of kosherie (a mix of macaroni, lentils, rice, fried onions, chickpeas, and spicy tomato sauce), molakheya (sauce of Jew's mallow) and chicken or rabbit, and fateer (a flat pastry that can be served either savory or sweet).

Local Beer & Wine

Just a few years ago, Egypt produced a single brand of beer, which, though inconsistent in taste and alcohol content, was drinkable. The wine was unpalatable, and the hard liquor was downright dangerous. These days, thanks to the privatization of the state alcohol monopoly and the purchase of the country's largest single producer by Dutch beer producer Heineken, there are several drinkable beers and a choice of presentable locally made wines. The most popular of these include Stella; Saqqara, a light lager, indistinguishable from Stella by most drinkers; and Meister and Meister Max, an attempt to make a darker beer (Meister Max sacrifices taste for alcohol content).

Beers cost from LE6 ($1.09/55p) at a store up to LE30 ($5.45/£2.80) in a five-star hotel.

Grand Marquis, Cape Bay, and Sheherezad are the best of the local wines and cost about LE65 to LE80 ($12-$15/£6-£7.40) retail and LE100 to LE200 ($18-$36/£9.25-£19) in a restaurant or hotel.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling. There are more options and resources out there than ever before, but Egypt poses a number of challenges.

Cairo is emblematic of the difficulties that you will face: high curbs, a complete absence of ramps, and broken pavements. The situation is best in the high-traffic tourist areas. Many hotels in Luxor and Sharm el Sheikh, for example, now offer a few wheelchair-accessible rooms, and an increasing number of dive centers are equipped to deal with less-mobile customers.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to disabled travelers include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS [225-5667]; www.mossresourcenet.org); the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB) (tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org); and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). AirAmbulanceCard.com is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers a comprehensive database on travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel. Avis Rent a Car (tel. 888/879-4273) has an Avis Access program that offers services for customers with special travel needs. These include specially outfitted vehicles with swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; mobility scooter rentals; and accessible bus service. Be sure to reserve well in advance.

Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), available by subscription ($16.95/year U.S.; $21.95/year outside U.S).

The "Accessible Travel" link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor.com) offers a variety of travel resources to disabled persons.

British travelers should contact Holiday Care (tel. 0845-124-9971 U.K. only; www.holidaycare.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for disabled and elderly people.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Your passport must have a minimum of 2 months' validity beyond your departure date in order for you to enter Egypt. Everyone older than 16 is required to have his own passport.

For information on how to get a passport, go to "Passports" in the "Fast Facts" section of this guide -- the websites listed provide downloadable passport applications as well as the current processing fees. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "Foreign Entry Requirement" Web page of the U.S. State Department at http://travel.state.gov.

Visas

Most Western visitors to Egypt are required to have a visa. The main exceptions to this rule are travelers who have a National Identity Card issued by Belgium, France, Germany, Italy, or Portugal. Visas can be acquired at the nearest Egyptian Embassy or at the point of entry (note that if you are traveling on a National Identity Card, as noted above, and want to get your visa at the point of entry, you need to bring a passport photo with you). A 30-day tourist visa costs $15/£7.50 (Egyptian pounds not accepted).

Tourists traveling directly to the Sinai Peninsula by air have two options: the standard 30-day visa that is valid for all of Egypt, or a free 14-day visa valid only for the Sinai tourist zone (which includes St. Catherine). The 30-day visa is easily extended for a small fee and can also be acquired (for a surcharge) after entry through travel agents in Sinai if you enter on the 14-day visa and then decide to visit the rest of the country.

Officially it is recommended that you obtain a visa before you travel, but most regular visitors to Egypt who arrive by air find it quicker and easier to pick up a visa on arrival at the airport.

Travelers who arrive overland should obtain their visas before arrival. Coming through Taba, there may be problems obtaining the 30-day visa without the help (and extra expense) of a travel agent.

Visa requirements can change without notice, and you should check the latest requirements as far in advance as possible in order to allow time to obtain a visa in your home country should that be necessary.

Americans can check http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_1108.html.

Canadians can check www.voyage.gc.ca/dest/report-en.asp?country=79000#4.

British tourists can check www.fco.gov.uk/knowbeforeyougo.

Insurance

Travel Insurance

Egypt is a large, fascinating country and is full of people who are willing to help make your vacation go smoothly (and help out as much as they can when it doesn't). Don't let this cloud the fact, however, that Egypt's public infrastructure is badly underdeveloped, where it exists at all. When arrangements go off the rails or an emergency situation develops, you'll find yourself paying out of your own pocket to make things right again. For many people, a comprehensive travel insurance package makes sense in Egypt.

The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com, which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multi-trip policies.

Most big travel agents offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel. 020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033- 9988; www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip-Cancellation Insurance

Independent travelers in Egypt will find themselves working around all kinds of obstacles to get where they're going. Many people, therefore, opt for an insurance package that includes trip-interruption and trip-cancellation insurance. Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip-cancellation insurance traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and State Department advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" cancellation coverage -- which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 888/885-7233; www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages.

For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com), Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com), Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com), or Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Medical Insurance

For travel overseas, most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront and reimburse you only after you return home.

Between unhygienic food and the traffic, leaving aside a whole range of potentially risky vacation activities such as diving and go-karts, Egypt is not a place where you want to gamble with your medical coverage. State-supplied medical care is to be avoided in all but the most immediately life-threatening situations. Anyone traveling in Egypt should be prepared to cover the cost of the best private treatment available in country (which, it should be noted, is extremely cheap compared to the United States), as well as medical evacuation to Europe should that become necessary.

For most people, particularly those traveling to remote or high-risk areas where emergency evacuation might be necessary, this means purchasing travel medical insurance. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com; for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc., at tel. 800/777-8710).

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices, or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated overseas.

Lost-Luggage Insurance

Lost luggage is not uncommon flying into Cairo, but the bags always arrive eventually. The main problem is poor service from local airline representatives, which may mean some frustrating time on the phone and perhaps having to waste valuable holiday time going back to the airport to retrieve your bags. The concierge at your hotel should be able to deal with this issue.

A more serious problem, though only for tourists routed through Paris's Charles de Gaulle Airport or Milan's Malpensa International Airport, is the recurring thefts from checked baggage. If you have a connection through Charles de Gaulle or Malpensa, do not leave anything of value in your checked bags; cameras, jewelry, and computer equipment should be packed only in carry-on luggage.

On international flights (including U.S. portions of international trips), baggage coverage is limited to approximately $9.07 per pound, up to approximately $635 per checked bag. If you plan to check items more valuable than what's covered by the standard liability, see if your homeowner's policy covers your valuables, get baggage insurance as part of your comprehensive travel-insurance package, or buy Travel Guard's BagTrak product.

If your luggage is lost, immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the airport, detailing the luggage contents. Most airlines require that you report delayed, damaged, or lost baggage within 4 hours of arrival. Though airlines are required to deliver luggage, once found, directly to your house or destination free of charge, branch offices in Cairo have proved reluctant to honor this, and persuading them to keep this commitment may require some persistence and pressure.

Visitor Information

The Egyptian Ministry of Tourism has a colorful website (www.egypt.travel) with a fair bit of information (if you can navigate your way through the animation). The ministry also maintains offices in New York, 630 Fifth Ave., Ste. 1706, New York, NY 10111 (tel. 212/332-2570 or 212/956-6439); Chicago, 645 N. Michigan Ave., Ste. 829, Chicago, IL 60611 (tel. 312/280-4666 or 312/280-4788); Los Angeles, 8383 Wilshire Blvd., Ste. 215, Beverly Hills, CA 90211 (tel. 323/653-8815 or 323/653-8961); Montreal, 1253 McGill College Ave., Ste. 250, Montreal H3B2Y5 (tel. 514/861-4420 or 514/861-8071); and London, Egyptian House, 170 Piccadilly, London W1V9DD (tel. 171/493-5282 or 171/408-0295).

The Ministry of Tourism offices in Egypt vary wildly in usefulness from the completely pointless (Luxor, for example) to the extremely helpful (in Aswan and Bahareya). Addresses and contact information have been listed in the relevant chapters throughout this book.

There are quite a few good online sources for information about Egypt:

• www.arabist.net is a political blog written by journalists with experience in Egypt and North Africa, and is a lot more trenchant than anything else produced locally.

• www.egy.com is one of my personal favorites, an idiosyncratic site devoted to the research of Samir Rafaat, author of two books on Cairo's historic buildings. Full of fascinating historical snippets that Rafaat digs up from the archives, his articles will have you seeing Cairo in a whole new way.

• www.egyptvoyager.com is one of those sites that never seems to be finished, but it does have a series of panoramic photos of Cairo that can be used to preview museums, buildings, and even shopping areas to decide whether you want them on your itinerary.

• www.travelblog.org/Africa/Egypt and www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-country/Egypt/tpod.html have up-to-date individual accounts of travel in Egypt. Quality varies, of course, but there's usually something fun and informative here.

• www.touregypt.net is run by an organization that calls itself the Association of Egyptian Travel Businesses on the Internet. Hectic and badly written, the site nevertheless has articles on just about everything and a large amount of useful information.

  In Egypt, the best place to go for maps is the American University in Cairo Bookstore.

Tips for Vegetarian Travelers

Vegetarian options are becoming more common in Egyptian restaurants, but the best bet remains ordering a variety of appetizers. Between stuffed vine leaves and hummus, yogurts and cheeses, and fresh bread, a good restaurant can provide a well-balanced and filling meal. Make sure you ask before ordering the stuffed vine leaves -- these are sometimes cooked with a small amount of meat inside.

One potential boon to vegetarian travelers is that the Christian community in Egypt maintains a rigorous fasting calendar. Unlike the Muslims, who abstain from food or drink during daylight hours, the Coptic community eschews meat and dairy products during their fasts. Enquire after "fasting foods" at restaurants and bakeries.

Happy Cow's Vegetarian Guide to Restaurants & Health Food Stores (www.happycow.net) has a restaurant guide with more than 6,000 restaurants in 100 countries, though at the time of writing, it has only one, outdated, listing for Cairo. Hopefully, this will expand with reader contributions. VegDining.com (www.vegdining.com) also lists vegetarian restaurants (with profiles) around the world. Vegetarian Vacations (www.vegetarian-vacations.com) offers vegetarian tours and itineraries.