Things To Do in Elbow Cay

No cars are allowed in the heart of Hope Town, so bikers and pedestrians have the narrow paved streets, with names like Lovers' Lane, to themselves. As you wander through town, you'll see harborside restaurants and pastel-painted cottages with purple and orange bougainvillea tumbling over stone and picket fences. Amid the usual island fare at the handful of souvenir shops is resort wear made from Androsia batik fabric.

To find out why Malone is such a common surname here, stop by the Wyannie Malone Museum (officially open most days 10am-noon, but unofficially open "whenever"). This small collection of island lore is in tribute to the South Carolinian widow and mother of four who founded Hope Town around 1783.

Before Hope Town's red-and-white-striped lighthouse was erected in 1838, many locals made a good living luring ships toward shore to be wrecked on the treacherous reefs and rocks, and then turning the salvaged cargo into cash. To protect this livelihood, some people tried in vain to destroy the beacon while it was being built. Today, you can climb to the top of the 36m (118-ft.) tower for panoramic views of the harbor and town. Most weekdays between 10am and 4pm, the lighthouse keeper will be happy to give you a peek. The lighthouse is within walking distance of Club Soleil and Hope Town Hideaways. If you're staying elsewhere, make arrangements through your hotel for a visit.

Of course, no one comes to Hope Town just to shop, but once you're here, you might want to pick up a souvenir. The Ebb Tide Gift Shop (tel. 242/366-0088) is the town's best-stocked boutique. It's in an aqua-trimmed white-clapboard house a block from the harbor. Inside, you'll find many treasures, including Androsia batiks, costume jewelry, T-shirts, original watercolors, and fabrics sold by the yard. Hours are Monday through Saturday from 9am to 5pm.

On Saturday nights, a young party crowd gathers at Harbour's Edge (tel. 242/366-0087), a Hope Town bar and restaurant with the island's only pool table. On Monday night, Bahamian barbecues draw many people to Sea Spray Resort (tel. 242/366-0065), about 4.8km (3 miles) from Hope Town. The food is good, considering the low prices, and you can hear live music. Other evenings, people hang out at the bars of hotels and restaurants -- or they turn in early to rest up for yet another day of exploring.