Things To Do in Elvas

In Praça Dom Sancho II, named in honor of the king who reconstructed the town, stands the Sé (cathedral). Under a cone-shape dome, it's a forbidding fortresslike building decorated with gargoyles, turrets, and a florid Manueline portal. The cathedral opens onto a black-and-white diamond square. It's open daily from 10am to noon and 2 to 6pm. A short walk up the hill to the right of the cathedral leads to Largo de Santa Clara, a small plaza that holds an odd Manueline pillory with four wrought-iron dragon heads.

On the south side of Largo de Santa Clara is the Igreja de Nossa Senhora de Consolação (Church of Our Lady of Consolation), a 16th-century octagonal Renaissance building with a cupola lined in 17th-century azulejos (tiles). It's open daily 9am to 12:30pm and 2 to 5pm.

The castelo (castle), Praça da República, built by the Moors and strengthened by Christian rulers in the 14th and 16th centuries, offers a panoramic view of the town, its fortifications, and the surrounding countryside. It's open daily from 9:30am to 1pm and 2:30 to 5pm (till 5:30pm Oct 10-Apr 1.)

The abundant folklore of this small town might whet your appetite for souvenirs. Take a stroll along the town's best shopping streets, Rua de Alchemin and Rua de Olivença, where you'll find rustic handicrafts appearing on all sides.

Don't expect the diversions and distractions of Lisbon -- sleepy Elvas simply doesn't have them. Instead, consider a stroll through the town's historic core, looking for likable tascas (bars). Or, head less than 1km (about 3/4 mile) west of town to the Albergaria Jardim, Estrada Nacional 4 (tel. 26/862-10-50; www.albergariajardim.com). Local residents who come to drink and socialize fill this handsome pub.