Restaurants in Esja, Hvalfjordur and Akranes

For an excellent "country chic" dinner in Hvalfjörður, make a reservation at Hotel Glymur. The menu is stripped down to four entrees (catch of the day, lamb, chicken, and vegetarian) ranging from 3,470kr to 4,490kr ($56-$72/£28-£36). From noon to five it's a less expensive cafe, serving Turkish lamb soup, fresh salad, hot waffles, and "Grandmother's fish balls."

In Akranes, the Galito Restaurant, Stillholt 16-18 (tel. 430-6767; main courses 1,000kr-5,000kr ($16-$80/£8-£40); DC, MC, V; Sun-Thurs 11:30am-9pm, Fri-Sat 11:30am-10pm), has a typical small-town menu -- burgers, pizza, fish, lamb, and perhaps a reindeer special -- with a touch more pizzazz. For a casual meal at the town's best hangout, try Café Mörk, Skólabraut 14 (tel. 431-5030).