Things To Do in Estoril
Estoril Attractions
Parque Estoril, in the center of town, is a well-manicured landscape. At night, when it's floodlit, you can stroll amid the subtropical vegetation. The palm trees studding the grounds have prompted many to call it "a corner of Africa." At the top of the park sits the casino, which offers gambling, international floor shows, dancing, and movies.
Across the railroad tracks is the beach, where some of the most fashionable people in Europe sun themselves on peppermint-striped canvas chairs along the Praia Estoril Tamariz. The beach is sandy, unlike the pebbly strand at Nice. Although it is a lovely stretch of sand, we don't recommend going into the water, which is almost too polluted for swimming. You can enjoy the sands and the beach scene, but for actual swimming, head to one of the many hotel pools in the area.
Tamariz draws more gay patrons than any other beach in Portugal, although the beach in general has a little bit of everything. The gay section is easy to discern; as one beach buff said, "It's easy. Just gravitate to the section with the most pumped-up bodies."
To the east is São João do Estoril, which also has a regrettably polluted beach but many handsome private villas. Most visitors go there to dine and dance.
Estoril Shopping
Other than the upscale hotel boutiques that sell scarves and poolside accessories, Estoril does not abound with shopping options. Most dedicated consumers head for the markets of Lisbon or for the large-scale shopping center in Cascais, a 10-minute drive from Estoril.
In July and August, the resort sponsors an open-air handicrafts fair, the Feira do Artesanato, near the casino. It's worth a visit even if you're staying in Cascais. The fair runs nightly from around 5pm until midnight. In addition to good regional specialties, the stalls sell handicrafts and art, including ceramics, from all parts of Portugal. You can also drive 6.5km (4 miles) southeast of Estoril to the town of Carcavelos, which has a busy market on Thursday from 7am to 5pm. You'll see local arts and crafts along with more mundane items such as food and clothing. You can also reach Carcavelos by train from Estoril; it's best to go in the morning.
Estoril Nightlife
Gambling
An alcohol-stoked crawl through the upscale bars of such hotels as the Palácio might provide insights into the glamour of this pocket of Portugal. If you're looking for something more formal, check out the Casino Estoril, in the Parque Estoril, Praça José Teodoro dos Santos (tel. 21/466-77-00; www.casino-estoril.pt). There's a cover charge of 5€ for entrance into the section with the gaming tables (roulette, French banque, chemin de fer, blackjack, and craps); you can gamble to your heart's content every day between 3pm and 3am. You must present a passport, driver's license, or other form of photo ID, and you must be 18 or over. A jacket is required. Entrance to the separate slot-machine room is free and requires no ID. Built in the late 1950s, the casino rises from a formally landscaped garden on a hilltop near the town center. Glass walls enclose an inner courtyard with fountains and tiled paths.
Clubs & Bars
The casino is the venue for the region's splashiest and most colorful cabaret act, Salão Preto e Prata, in the Casino Estoril, Parque Estoril, Praça José Teodoro dos Santos (tel. 21/466-77-00). We usually skip the dinner offered here and pay a cover charge of 23€, which includes the first drink. On Sunday, the cover charge is 15€, which also includes the first drink. Shows begin at 11pm, and most spectators who aren't dining show up at around 10:30pm for views of leggy, feathered, and bejeweled dancers strutting around in billowing trains and bespangled bras. Food is served in the 700-seat theater or in a 150-seat satellite restaurant, Wunderbar. Dinner, including access to the show, costs 58€ to 65€ per person.
