Things To Do in Faro
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Faro Attractions
The most bizarre attraction in Faro is the Capela dos Ossos (Chapel of Bones). Enter through a courtyard from the rear of the Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Monte do Carmo do Faro, Largo do Carmo (tel. 28/982-44-90). Erected in the 19th century, the chapel is completely lined with human skulls (an estimated 1,245) and bones. It's open daily 10am to 2pm and 3 to 5:30pm. Entrance is free to the church and 1€ to the chapel.
The church, built in 1713, contains a gilded baroque altar. Its facade is also baroque, with a bell tower rising from each side. Topping the belfries are gilded, mosquelike cupolas connected by a balustraded railing. The upper-level windows are latticed and framed with gold; statues stand in niches on either side of the main portal.
Other religious monuments include the old Sé (cathedral), on Largo da Sé (tel. 28/989-83-00). Built in the Gothic and Renaissance styles, it stands on a site originally occupied by a mosque. Although the cathedral has a Gothic tower, it's better known for its tiles, which date from the 17th and 18th centuries. The highlight is the Capela do Rosário, on the right. It contains the oldest and most beautiful tiles, along with sculptures of two Nubians bearing lamps and a red chinoiserie organ. Admission is free. The beautiful cloisters are the most idyllic spot in Faro. The cathedral is open daily from 10am to 5:30pm. Admission is 2€.
Igreja de São Francisco, Largo de São Francisco (tel. 28/987-08-70), is the other church of note. Its facade doesn't even begin to hint at the baroque richness inside. Panels of glazed earthenware tiles in milk-white and Dutch blue depict the life of the patron saint, St. Francis. One chapel is richly gilded. Open hours are Monday through Friday from 8 to 9:30am and 5:30 to 7pm (but in the sleepy Algarve, you might sometimes find it closed).
If it's a rainy day, three minor museums might hold some interest. The municipal museum, or Museu Municipal de Faro, Largo Dom, Afonso III 14 (tel. 28/989-74-19), is in a former 16th-century convent, the Convento de Nossa Senhora da Assunção. Even if you aren't particularly interested in the exhibits, the two-story cloister is worth a visit. Many artifacts dating from the Roman settlement of the area are on display. Some of the Roman statues are from excavations at Milreu. The museum is open Monday to Saturday 10am to 6pm. Admission is 2€ for adults, 1€ for those 13 to 18 years old, and free to those 12 and under.
The dockside Museu Marítimo, Rua Comunidade Lusíada (tel. 28/989-49-90), displays models of local fishing craft and of the boats that carried Vasco da Gama and his men to India in 1497. There are replicas of a boat the Portuguese used to sail up the Congo River in 1492 and of a vessel that bested the entire Turkish navy in 1717. It's open Monday to Friday 9am to noon and 2:30 to 4:30pm. Admission is 2€.
Faro Shopping
Most of the shopping outlets in Faro are on Rua Santo António or its neighbor, Rua Francisco Gomes, in the heart of town. Check out Carminho, Rua Santo António 29 (tel. 28/982-65-22), a well-recommended outlet for handicrafts and, to a lesser extent, traditional clothing. If you're interested in wandering like a local resident amid stands and booths piled high with the produce of southern Portugal, consider a trek through the Mercado de Faro, Largo do Mercado, in the town center. It's open daily from 6:30am to 1:30pm.
Faro Nightlife
What Bourbon Street is to New Orleans, Rua do Prior is to Faro. In the heart of town, adjacent to the Faro Hotel, it's chockablock with dozens of night cafes, pubs (English and otherwise), and dance clubs that rock from around 10:30pm until dawn. Head to this street anytime after noon for insights into the hard-drinking, hard-driving nature of this hot southern town. Our favorite watering hole along this street is CheSsenta Bar, Rua do Prior 34 (tel. 918/74-58-37), where the crowd is in their 20s and 30s, and downs one beer after another at 1.50€ a mug. It's open daily 10pm to 4am. Karaoke on Wednesday and Friday often rules the night at O Conselheiro, in the center of Rua Conselheiro Bívar (no phone). The best recorded music in town is played here by a DJ, and sometimes the bar converts to a dance floor. It too is open daily 10pm to 4am, and charges the same for beer.
