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There is a pleasing mix of the traditional and the modern at this backstreet guesthouse named after a famous former resident—the creator of the Baptistery’s “Gates of Paradise” had workshops on the top floor of the palazzo. Rooms have plenty of space, with high ceilings, herringbone terra-cotta floors, whitewashed walls, and painted wood ceilings in a vaguely Renaissance style. There is a sauna and Jacuzzi for communal use, if you need to soak away the aches and pains after a day’s sightseeing; new memory-foam mattresses added in 2014 should help, too. Email direct if you want to bag the best room rate.