Sure, this place has lost its original in-the-know, local buzz. But the commitment to top produce served simply, and a trademark take on Tuscan ingredients, is unwavering—and reservations are still a must. Carefully sourced cold cuts make an ideal sharing antipasto: prosciutto crudo from Umbria, pecorino cheese from Pienza in southern Tuscany. Mains are eclectic, seasonal, and come in all appetite sizes, from a whole burrata (fresh cheese) served with spinach to lamb knuckle with scallions and pear puree or stuffed squid with artichokes. There is a long, expertly compiled wine list, with about 10 offered by the glass, plus craft beers.

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