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There’s a definite hipster atmosphere here, with the stripped brick walls and young staff, but the food ethos is unshakable. Ingredients are staunchly Tuscan and traditional, but combined in a way you may not have seen before, on a menu that rejects pasta. The menu is modular, and diners are free to combine seafood, meat, and vegetarian dishes in any order they choose. Perhaps tempura zucchini flowers stuffed with tomato sorbet followed by guinea-hen “Caesar salad” carbonara. Reservations are advisable.