There is no doubt that this traditional market workers’ trattoria is now firmly on the tourist trail. But Mario’s clings to the traditions and ethos it adopted when it first fired up the kitchen burners 60 years ago. Food is simple and hearty and served at communal benches—“check in” on arrival and you will be offered seats together wherever they come free. Think zuppa di fagioli (bean soup) followed by traditional Tuscan piquant beef stew, peposo. No reservations accepted.