Things To Do in Florianopolis

The main square in Florianópolis's city center, Praça XV, is a verdant, green space with intriguing mythological figures set into the cobblestones beneath the trees. Look especially for the Bernúncia, a unique bull-alligator hybrid endemic to Santa Catarina mythology. The centerpiece of Praça XV is an enormous fig tree, said to have magical powers. Circling it thrice clockwise is said to bring on matrimony, seven times counterclockwise divorce, while hanging upside down from its branches is said to be a shortcut to widowhood. Try it and see. Close by, the Rua Felipe Schmit and the Rua Cons. Mafra and its cross streets are closed to traffic and packed with stores; specialty items include shoes and leather goods such as belts and wallets. Thanks to the cooler climate, the stores stock excellent boots and sweaters that will hold up to Northern Hemisphere falls and winters. Also nearby, the Public Market, Av. Paulo Fontes s/n (Mon-Fri 7am-7pm, Sat 7am-1pm), is packed with small stalls offering local arts and crafts and a vast variety of fresh seafood. For a good quick snack, stop by Box32 (tel. 048/3224-5588; www.box32.com.br).

On the northwest coast of the island, the small settlement of Santo Antônio de Lisboa is a lovely collection of traditional Azores-style homes, plus some of the best and cheapest oysters on the island. Stop by the Cantinho das Ostras (tel. 048/3235-2296; Mon-Fri 8am-6pm) at the south end of the beach to watch as oysters are brought in, cleaned, and shucked. Sample a few fresh and raw (R$5 per dozen) or for just a bit more have them steamed and served with lemon (R$12 per dozen). Delicious.

In the southern part of the island, the western shore facing the mainland lacks beaches entirely, but in compensation offers some fabulous driving and sightseeing. South of the airport, heading down the SC-405 toward Riberão da Ilha leads to a small, winding road that hugs the coastline virtually all the way to the southern tip of the island. Don't miss a visit to this part of the island! It's a region of small villages with colorful Portuguese-style houses, settled by fishermen from the Azores. Their descendants still live in this region and make a living fishing or raising oysters. Note that although Riberão da Ilha looks like it's just a short drive away, the road is winding and there are viewpoints and picturesque villages to distract you along the way. Plan to spend at least half a day, with lunch or dinner at a seafood restaurant in Riberão da Ilha.

Every summer, bars and clubs come and go in the northern part of the island around Praia dos Ingleses. Most of the year-round nightlife options can be found around the Lagoa da Conceição, where locals and tourists mingle. To start the evening off with a fabulous view, head up to the Morro da Lagoa da Conceição, just west of the village. Follow the Rodovia Admar Gonzaga up the hill; the road will switch back until you get to the lookout. Just across from the lookout is where you find Mandalla, Rod. Admar Gonzaga 4720 (tel. 048/3234-8714). This bar sits perched high above the road and offers spectacular views of the lagoon and the village below. On most nights, Mandalla has live bands starting at 10pm (closed Mon).

Back down in the village a couple of nightlife options are within an easy stroll of one another. Drakkar, Av. Afonso Delambert Neto 607, Lagoa (tel. 048/3232-9516; www.bardrakkar.com.br), is a happening live-music venue with a varied program. Open as early as 6pm, it's perfect for an early-evening cocktail. The live music usually doesn't get started until 10pm. To dance the night away and listen to some great local bands, head out to Praia Mole's Latitude 27, Estrada Geral da Barra da Lagoa 565 (btw. Lagoa and Praia Mole; tel. 048/3232-5841; www.latitude27.com.br). Local bands appear on the stage, and a large dance floor provides plenty of space to dance Thursday through Saturday. Downtown is where you'll find popular Bianco Lounge (tel. 048/3209-3777; www.biancolounge.com.br), a trendy restaurant and ultraminimalist lounge, with fancy cocktails and low-key DJ. Also downtown you'll find the Scuna, Avenida Beira Mar (underneath the bridge; tel. 048/3225-3138; www.scunabar.com.br), which features a menu of live music and snacks and booze 3 nights a week (Tues, Fri, Sat) starting at 10pm. The best features of the Scuna are the two large patios overlooking the city's waterfront.