One of the simplest trattorias also happens to be one of Genoa’s most famous eateries. Sit side by side with lawyers, construction workers, students, and tourists, ignore the unattractive decor, and concentrate on the great mix of dishes this Genovese institution has to offer on its menu that changes daily. Enjoy flavorful, no-nonsense dishes such as the near-perfect pesto, stuffed anchovies, and even simple fish sautéed in white wine. Note: Maria has finally retired and the kitchen is in new hands. Although still a good choice, those who ate there under the former cook may be slightly disappointed.