Things To Do in Granada, Nicaragua

In addition to the attractions listed below, be sure to check out the rest of the city's churches, especially the dark and atmospheric Iglesia Guadalupe on the eastern side of the city, 4 blocks from the Parque Colón on Calle La Calzada. On the other side of town, you'll find Iglesia Xalteva, 5 blocks west of the central plaza on Calle Xalteva. The high, arched walls were built by the Spanish to separate them from the local architecture. Continue west on Xalteva, and you'll reach the town cemetery, an elaborate necrolandia with some grandiose tombs, including a fair attempt at a reproduction of the Magdalena de Paris. On the eastern side of the city, at the end of Calle La Calzada, are the gray shores of Lago Cocibolca. Here, you'll find Granada's version of a waterfront walk, known as Complejo Turístico Cocibolca. Though the lake provides some magnificent panoramic views, the shore is sadly neglected and litter-strewn. You'll pass it on the way to the departure point for tour boats going to Las Isletas.

The Mercado Municipal (open daily 6am-6pm) is a busy, sprawling hive of activity 1 block south of the central plaza. Here, you'll find everything from soap to sombreros, but it is dark and dingy, and slightly claustrophobic. Real shopaholics should take a morning and visit the nearby handicrafts mecca of Masaya. Galeria Istmo (Calle Atravesada, in front of Bancentro; tel. 505/2552-4678) offers the best in Nicaraguan art and design. Casa Natal, 1 1/2 blocks east of Calle El Caimito (no phone), sells handicrafts from all over Nicaragua, including woodcarvings from Solentiname and black ceramics from Jinotega. Casa de Antiguedades, 1 block north of Calle Arsenal (tel. 505/2874-2034; haroldsandino@hotmail.com), is a treasure-trove of antiques and is great for a morning browse. Fancy a smoke? Doña Elba Cigar Factory, 1 block west of Iglesia Xalteva (tel. 505/8860-6715), is a small operation producing 3,000 puros a day. Located in the family's home, you can learn to roll your own while sitting at an elaborate dining table engraved with a picture of the Last Supper. The factory also produces lovely cedar gift boxes with inset pictures of the Granada cathedral. The factory is open daily from 7am to 7pm. For English- and Spanish-language books and magazines, check out the Maverick Reading & Smoothie Lounge, 1 block west of Casa de los Leones on Calle El Arsenal (tel. 505/2552-4120).

The more-upscale bars and nightclubs in town are located west of the central plaza, while the more down-at-heel local joints can be found on the lakeshore close to the Complejo Turístico. Here, there is a strip of bars and nightclubs, the best of which are Pantera (no phone) and Cesars (tel. 505/2552-7241). Be warned, however, wandering this part of town at night is for the young, adventurous, and even foolish. If you do fancy a night on the tiles by the lake, dress down and make sure you get a taxi back, as the walk into the city is through a notoriously crime-ridden spot.

O'Shea?s (tel. 505/8454 1140) is a small Irish bar located on the pedestrian street La Calzada and is alive with late night revelers enjoying a hearty menu of fish and chips, baked potatoes and chicken curry. The owner is a Dubliner called Tom who runs the long, narrow bar with efficient ease. The pub quiz on Wednesday is very popular. Kelly?s Bar (La Sirena and El Caimito; tel. 505/8825-1078) is another popular bar, sometimes heaving with beer-soaked gringos and locals at three in the afternoon. It's the type of place where the TV sits on beer crates and you have to shout to be heard, but it is certainly a happening spot with live music on weekends.