Things To Do in Graz

Graz Attractions

Much of Graz's Old Town has been well preserved, and many visitors take tours through this section of town. Major sights include Hauptplatz (Main Square), in the heart of the city, surrounded by ancient houses with characteristic brown-tile roofs and narrow gables. The most notable house is the House of Luegg at the corner of Sporgasse, known for its arcades and facade dating from the 17th century.

A few steps down Herrengasse, the wide shopping and business street, is the Landhaus, seat of the provincial government, a 1565 Renaissance masterpiece. An especially prominent window above the main gate intensifies the gate's effect, and the arched Renaissance fountainhead was poured in bronze. The south side of the courtyard ends in an arcade that runs the length of the court.

Paulustor (Paul's Gate), set between the remnants of Graz's rampart, dates from the time Italian architects fortified the city. The side of the gate facing the city is plain, but the other side is decorated with the large coats-of-arms of Archduke Ferdinand and his first wife, Anne of Bavaria.

To escape from the monumental historic core of Graz for a few hours, visit the little-known neighborhood of Gries, lying across the River Mur from the old town. This is where a vast army of immigrants have settled, forming Graz's multi-ethnic sector. The center of Gries is the aptly named Griesplatz, where vendors sell mainly handicrafts from such countries as South Korea, Vietnam, the Philippines, Thailand, and China. There's also a large settlement of Turks and Lebanese who live here. You can sit in a cafe that evokes Beirut, listening to Middle Eastern music pour out.

An Open-Air Museum

Österreichisches Freilichtmuseum (tel. 03124/53700), about 16km (10 miles) north of Graz in Stübing, is set in a wooded valley branching off the Mur Valley. Here you'll find buildings, some of which are 400 years old, from all the Austrian provinces. The 85 authentic structures include a Rauchstubenhaus (smokeroom house) from East Styria, a Rauchhaus (smokehouse) from Land Salzburg, and circular, triangular, and rectangular houses. All the houses are maintained by the Styrian provincial and Austrian national governments.

Architectural enthusiasts will find that this museum has an intriguing display of the regional variations of building traditions. Because of the park's sprawling size (around 40 hectares/100 acres), the buildings -- mostly farmhouses, barns, and farm-related storage or food-processing sheds -- are set within the rural habitats that originally produced them. Despite its location in the verdant heart of Styria, the curators have tried to showcase buildings that derived throughout the country -- from Vorarlberg in the west to Burgenland, a marshy low-lying province similar to the plains of neighboring Hungary.

The museum is open from early April to late October Tuesday to Sunday 9am to 5pm. Admission is 8€ ($13) for adults and 4.50€ ($7.20) for children. You can take a train from Graz toward Bruck an der Mur and get off at the station marked STÜBING, a local (not express) stop. After that, it's a 40-minute walk, or you can take a taxi. About 10 buses head to Stübing each day from Graz's Lendplatz (on the western bank of the Mur River, a 5-min. walk west of Old Town); the trip takes 35 minutes.

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Graz Shopping

You might begin your shopping expedition at Hauptplatz, the main square in the center of town. The major shopping streets, including the wide, elegant Herrengasse, branch off from here. The second major shopping street is the also elegant and car-free Sporgasse, which is lined with upscale shops and sidewalk cafes. In the heart of the old city, Sporgasse runs along the River Mur's Left Bank. The major item to buy here is Styrian clothing in its famous gray-and-green hues. Stores offer a good selection of dirndls and hats in particular, as well as local handicrafts and leather clothing. Stores are generally open Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm and on Saturday 9am to noon.

Graz Nightlife

One of the most visible and frequently showcased buildings in Graz is the Opernhaus (Opera House), Opernring (tel. 0316/8000-0; www.buehnen-graz.com. tram: 1 or 7). It's the year-round home of Graz's opera company, of which local residents are justifiably proud. The faux-baroque theater was designed "in the style of Fischer von Erlach" at the end of the 19th century. Recent performances have included Lucia de Lammermoor, Cavelleria Rusticana, Tosca, Rigoletto, and even Broadway musicals. Depending on the event and your seat, tickets are 10€ to 75€ ($16-$120).

The Bar & Club Scene

Sometimes restaurants combine dancing and nightclub shows, so you might be able to spend an entire evening at one address. The cafes often have music as well.

The area around Farbergasse-Mehlplatz is the most popular place for people from all walks of life, and the city's greatest cluster of bars and restaurants is here. Locals refer to it as their Bermuda Dreleck (Bermuda Triangle).

The city often offers some excellent jazz; but performances are not always rigidly scheduled, and certainly not every night of the week. It's best to call to find out if a jazz program is being presented at the time of your visit. Your best bet is Das Neue Wist, Mosterhofgasse 34 (tel. 0316/8366660).

A Casino

One of the premier nightlife venues in Graz is contained within Casino Graz, Landhausgasse 10 (tel. 0316/832578). Set at the corner of the Schmiedgasse, in the historic core of town, the casino is housed in a modern (ca. 1984) building, its chief draw being the availability of its slot machines (daily 11am-3am) and its roulette wheels and blackjack tables (daily 3pm-3am). To enter, you'll have to be over 18 and present appropriate ID (bring your passport). Jackets and ties are usually required for men, although ties are optional June to September. Entrance is free, although you'll be offered the opportunity to buy 25€ ($40) worth of chips for the price of 23€ ($37). On the premises are a restaurant and a piano bar; within one of the building's many meeting rooms, cabaret shows are occasionally presented.