Things To Do in Groningen

Among Groningen's highlights is its handsome central square, the Grote Markt, graced by the 1810 neoclassical Stadhuis (Town Hall). Adjacent to this, at Waagplein 1, is the sparkling 1635 Renaissance Goudkantoor (Gold Office), which first housed a tax office, then a hallmarking bureau for precious metals, and is now a restaurant. Should your Latin be rusty, the inscription on the building, DATE CAESARI QUARE SUNT CAESARIS, was spoken by Jesus and translates as: "Give unto Caesar that which is Caesar's."

Almshouses -- With more than 30 hofjes (almshouses) within the city limits, Groningen shares with Amsterdam and Leiden the distinction of hosting the greatest number of these charitable medieval institutions in the country. Constructed around courtyards, these clusters of small cottages still provide homes for the poor and the aged. The Heilige Geestgasthuis (Holy Ghost Guesthouse), Pelsterstraat 43, dating from 1267, is the oldest in town. Founded in 1405, the Sint-Geertruidsgasthuis (St. Gertrude's Guesthouse), Peperstraat 22, started out as a lodging for pilgrims who came to Groningen to pay homage to a relic -- a supposed arm of John the Baptist in the Martinikerk -- and later became homes for seniors. There's a handsome courtyard garden behind the gate. Until midway through the 17th century, the Sint-Anthonygasthuis (St. Anthony's Guesthouse), Rademarkt 29/1-30, functioned in part as an asylum for the mentally ill. Its redbrick-and-sandstone gate dates from 1644.

Parks & Gardens -- The beautiful Renaissance Prinsenhof Garden was established in 1625 behind the Prinsenhof building at Martinikerkhof 23, which was a monastery before becoming the seat of the bishop of Groningen in 1568. Later taken over for a royal residence, it now houses a television and radio studio. The hedges surrounding the herb beds, the rose garden, and a sundial are the result of more than 250 years of topiary. The garden is open April to mid-October daily from 10am to sundown; admission is free.

When the city fortifications were demolished in the 19th century, part of the terrain in the north of town was given over to a pretty park, the Noorderplantsoen, laid out in the English landscape style.

Two Scenic Lakes Nearby -- The Paterswoldsemeer, a lake on Groningen's southern edge, is a sailing and watersports center with a vacation village on its shores. Just 8km (5 miles) southeast of here, the Zuidlaardermeer attracts watersports enthusiasts. In October, the nearby village of Zuidlaren is the setting for one of Holland's largest horse fairs.

Canal Tours -- May to October, the tour boats of Rondvaartbedrijf Kool (tel. 050/312-8379; www.rondvaartbedrijfkool.nl) operate 1-hour cruises through Groningen's canals. These depart from a dock outside Groningen rail station, right next to the Groninger Museum. The tour is 8.50€ ($14) for adults, 5.50€ ($8.80) for children ages 4 to 12, and free for children 3 and under.

Or, during the same months, propel yourself around on a canoe or a water bike from 't Peddeltje (tel. 050/318-0330; www.tpeddeltje.nl), from a dock under the Herebrug bridge, just east of the Groninger Museum. The price per boat for two tours ranges from 8€ to 20€ ($13-$32).

Pedaling Pleasure

Groningen province's tranquil Waddenzee coastline -- from Lauwersoog to Eemshaven, it's a distance of around 50km (31 miles) -- makes a fine setting for a bicycling tour. From the dike, you get views offshore to Schiermonnikoog and the low-lying, uninhabited islets of Rottumerplaat and Rottumeroog.