Planning a trip to Guatemala

Tips for Single Travelers

Many people prefer traveling alone. Unfortunately, the solo traveler is often forced to pay a premium price for the privilege of sleeping alone. On package vacations, single travelers are often hit with a "single supplement" to the base price. To avoid it, you can agree to room with other single travelers on the trip, or you can find a compatible roommate before you go from one of the many roommate locator agencies.

GAP Adventures (tel. 800/708-7761 in North America, or 44/870-999-0144 in the United Kingdom; www.gapadventures.com) is an adventure tour company with a good range of regular and varied tours in Guatemala. As a policy, they do not charge a single supplement and will try to pair a single traveler with a compatible roommate.

Calendar of Events

Most of the events listed here might better be considered a tradition, more than an event -- there's not, for instance, a Virgen de la Asunción PR Committee that readily dispenses information. Beyond that, your best bet for detailed information is to call the Guatemalan Tourism Commission (INGUAT) at tel. 800/464-8281 in the U.S. or 1500 in Guatemala; or visit www.visitcguatemala.com. Alternatively, you can contact hotels where the event or festivities take place.

January

El Cristo Negro, Esquipulas. Pilgrims from across the world converge on the Basilica in this small city in El Oriente to pay their respects to the statue, the Black Christ. January 15.

April

Holy Week. Religious processions are held in cities and towns throughout the country. Colorful carpets line the streets of Antigua in preparation for the processions, while in Quetzaltenango there's a live reenactment of the Passion and Crucifixion of Christ. Week before Easter.

July

La Fiesta Nacional Indígena de Guatemala, Cobán. This is one of Mesoamerica's greatest celebrations of Maya culture. The city of Cobán features a steady stream of street fairs, concerts, parades, and parties. This is celebrated for 2 solid weeks in late July, sometimes extending into early August.

August

Fiesta de la Virgen de la Asunción, celebrated countrywide. The Virgin of the Assumption is the patron saint of Guatemala City and, by extension, the entire nation. There are celebrations, parades, and small fairs across the country, but the largest celebrations are held in Guatemala City. August 15.

September

Guatemala's Independence Day, celebrated all over the country. This is a national holiday. Major cities and most towns and villages have parades and public concerts. September 15.

November

Día de los Muertos (All Saints' Day), celebrated countrywide. The most famous celebration is the "drunken horse race" in the mountain town of Todos Santos. Guatemalans also fly giant, colorful kites to communicate with the dead in the village of Santiago Sacatepéquez. In the rest of the country, the celebrations may not be as elaborate or ritualized as in Mexico, but most Guatemalans take some time this day to remember the dead with flowers and trips to the cemeteries. November 1.

National Garífuna Day, Livingston. Although the official celebration day is November 26, the local Garífuna population in Livingston pulls out all the stops for a solid week of partying around the actual date. Garífuna from neighboring Honduras, Belize, and Nicaragua often come to help in the celebration. Garífuna food and dancing are available all over town. There are parades and street parties. November 26.

December

Quema del Diablo (Burning the Devil), celebrated countrywide. Huge bonfires fill the streets throughout the country as trash, tires, old furniture, and effigies of Satan are burned in a symbolic ritual cleansing. December 7.

Fiesta de Santo Tomás, Chichicastenango. The patron saint of this highland city is celebrated with fireworks, parades, and a massive street fair. One of the highlights is the dance of the Palo Volador, or "flying pole," in which a team of acrobats dive from a high pole and are slowly lowered while spiraling outward, attached only by a rope to their ankles. The festivities build for several days leading up to the main festival day of December 21.

Tips on Dining

With the exception of some regional specialties, the most common and prevalent aspects of Guatemalan cuisine are rather unimpressive. Handmade fresh corn tortillas are the most basic staple of Guatemalan cooking, and these are quite good. Tortillas, along with refried black beans, are usually served as an accompaniment to some simply grilled meat or chicken. Very few vegetables are typically served at Guatemalan meals.

You will find excellent restaurants serving a wide range of international cuisines in Guatemala City, Antigua, and Panajachel. However, outside the capital and these major tourist destinations, your options get very limited very fast. In fact, many destinations are so small or remote that you have no choice but to eat in the hotel's dining room. Even at the more popular destinations, the only choices aside from the hotel dining rooms are often cheap local places or overpriced tourist traps serving indifferent meals.

If you're looking for cheap eats, you'll find them in little restaurants known as comedores, which are the equivalent of diners in the United States. At a comedor, you'll find a limited and very inexpensive menu featuring some simple steak and chicken dishes, accompanied by rice, refried beans, and fresh tortillas.

Guatemalans tend to eat three meals a day, in similar fashion and hours to North Americans. Breakfast is usually served between 6:30am and 9am; lunch between noon and 2pm; and dinner between 6 and 10pm. Most meals and dining experiences are quite informal. In fact, there are only a few restaurants in the entire country that could be considered semi-formal, and none require a jacket or tie, although you could certainly wear them.

I have separated restaurant listings throughout this guide into three price categories based on the average cost per person of a meal, including tax and service charge. The categories are Expensive, more than Q150 ($20/£10); Moderate, Q75 to Q150 ($10-$20/£5-£10); and Inexpensive, less than Q75 ($10/£5). Keep in mind that the 12% IVA tax added onto all bills is not a service charge. A tip of at least 10% is expected. If the service was particularly good and attentive, you should probably leave a little extra.

Money

It's always advisable to bring money in a variety of forms on a vacation: a mix of cash, credit cards, debit cards, and, occasionally, traveler's checks.

Currency

The unit of currency in Guatemala is the quetzal. In June 2008, there were approximately 7.5 quetzales to the American dollar, but because the quetzal does fluctuate, you can expect this rate to change. To check the very latest exchange rates visit www.xe.com/ucc.

The quetzal is theoretically divided into 100 centavos. However, because of their insignificant value, you will rarely see or have to handle centavos. If you do, there are coins in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 25, and 50 centavos. There are also 1 quetzal coins, which are quite common and handy.

There are paper notes in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 quetzales. This can be a bit of a problem for travelers, since the bill with the largest denomination is worth only around US$13 (£6.50). In late 2009, the government is expected to introduce a new 200 queztales note.

If your ATM card doesn't work and you need cash in a hurry, Western Union (tel. 502/2360-1737 in Guatemala; www.westernunion.com) has numerous offices around Guatemala City and in several major towns and cities around the country. It offers secure and rapid, money-wire and telegram service.

Exchanging Money -- You can change money at all banks in Guatemala. Most charge a very slight service fee. Given the fact that banks handle money exchanges, there are very few exchange houses in Guatemala, although you may run across one here or there. In general, there is little variation in the exchange rate offered at banks and exchange houses.

Hotels will often exchange money as well; there usually isn't much of a line, but they might shave a few centavos off the exchange rate. Warning: Be careful when leaving a bank. Criminals are often looking for foreigners who have just withdrawn or exchanged cash.

Most airport taxis, shuttles, and major hotels will accept dollars upon your arrival, so it's not absolutely essential to exchange money before traveling to Guatemala. There are two banks inside the airport terminal that will exchange dollars and major European currencies, and will cash traveler's checks. They are usually open for all arriving flights. However, if you arrive outside of this bank's hours, or want to avoid any delay at the airport bank or ATMs, you might consider exchanging at least some money -- just enough to cover airport incidentals and transportation to your hotel -- before you leave home (though don't expect the exchange rate to be ideal). You can exchange money at your local American Express or Thomas Cook office or at your bank. American Express also dispenses traveler's checks and foreign currency via www.americanexpress.com or tel. 800/807-6233, but they'll charge a $15 (£7.50) order fee and additional shipping costs. American Express cardholders should dial tel. 800/221-7282; this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee.

Small Change -- When you change money, try to get some smaller bills and 1-quetzal coins. Petty cash will come in handy for tipping and public transportation. Even though the largest bill is not very valuable by Western standards, many taxi drivers and small shop owners have trouble making change for a 100 quetzales bill. Consider keeping the change separate from your larger bills so that it's readily accessible and you'll be less of a target for theft.

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine). The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on, then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5/£2.50 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2/£1). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. To compare banks' ATM fees within the U.S., use www.bankrate.com. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

You can use your credit card to receive cash advances at ATMs. Keep in mind that credit card companies protect themselves from theft by limiting maximum withdrawals outside their home country, so call your credit card company before you leave home. Also remember that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time.

ATMs are fairly common throughout Guatemala, particularly in Guatemala City and Antigua, and at most major tourist destinations around the country. You'll find them at almost all banks and most shopping centers. Still, make sure you have some cash at the start of your trip; never let yourself run totally out of spending money, and definitely stock up on funds before heading to any of the more remote destinations in the country. Outside the more popular destinations, it's still best to think of your ATM card as a backup measure, because machines are not nearly as readily available or dependable as you might be accustomed to, and you might encounter compatibility problems.

While many of Guatemala's ATMs will work fine with five- and six-digit PINs, some will only accept four-digit PINs. Before traveling, it's wise to change your PIN to avoid any unexpected hassles in getting access to quick cash.

Traveler's Checks

Traveler's checks are something of an anachronism from the days before the ATM made cash accessible at any time. Given the fees you'll pay for ATM use at banks other than your own, however, you might be better off with traveler's checks if you're withdrawing money often.

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. American Express offers denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and (for cardholders only) $1,000. You'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%. By phone, you can buy traveler's checks by calling tel. 800/807-6233. American Express cardholders should dial tel. 800/221-7282; this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee.

Visa offers traveler's checks at Citibank locations nationwide, as well as at several other banks. The service charge ranges between 1.5% and 2%; checks come in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and $1,000. Call tel. 800/732-1322 for information. AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378. MasterCard also offers traveler's checks. Call tel. 800/223-9920 for a location near you.

If you do choose to carry traveler's checks, keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are another safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can also withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your PIN. If you don't know yours, call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank to send it to you. It usually takes 5 to 7 business days, though some banks will provide the number over the phone if you provide some personal information. Keep in mind that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or U.S. dollars). But credit cards still may be the smart way to go when you factor in things like exorbitant ATM fees and the higher exchange rates and service fees you'll pay with traveler's checks. All major credit cards are accepted in Guatemala, although MasterCard and Visa will give you the greatest coverage, while American Express and Diners Club are slightly less widely used and accepted.

Because credit card purchases are dependent upon phone verifications, some hotels and restaurants in more remote destinations do not accept them. Moreover, some add on a 5% to 10% surcharge for credit card payments. Always check in advance if you're heading to a more remote corner of Guatemala.

To report a lost or stolen American Express card from inside Guatemala, you can call tel. 336/393-1111 collect in the U.S.; for MasterCard, tel. 1800/999-1480, or call tel. 636/722-7111 collect in the U.S.; for Visa, tel. 1800/999-0115, or call tel. 410/581-9994 collect in the U.S.; and for Diners Club, call tel. 502/2338-6801, or call collect to tel. 303/799-1504. When you contact your bank or issuing company, it might be able to wire you a cash advance off your credit card immediately; in many places, it can deliver an emergency credit card in 1 or 2 days. Odds are that if your wallet is gone, the police won't be able to recover it for you, but your credit card company or insurer might require a police report number, so file a police report anyway (after you cancel your credit cards).

Fast Facts

American Express -- Clark Tours (tel. 502/2412-4848; www.clarktours.com.gt) is the representative of American Express Travel Services in Guatemala. Their main offices are in Guatemala City at Clark Plaza, 7a Av. 14-76, Zona 9. They also have desks at the downtown Westin and Marriott hotels. To report lost or stolen Amex traveler's checks within Guatemala, dial tel. 1800/288-0073, or call tel. 801/964-6665 collect in the U.S.

Area Codes -- There are no regional area codes in Guatemala. Most phone numbers are eight digits. However, there are some anomalies. Some toll-free or public service numbers may be three-, four-, or six-digit numbers.

Business Hours -- Banks are usually open Monday through Friday from 9am to 4pm, although many have begun to offer extended hours. Offices are open Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm (many close for 1 hr. at lunch). Stores are generally open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 6pm (many close for 1 hr. at lunch). Stores in modern malls generally stay open until 8 or 9pm and don't close for lunch. Most bars are open until 1 or 2am.

Drinking Laws -- The legal drinking age in Guatemala is 18, although it's almost never enforced. Liquor, everything from beer to hard spirits, is sold in specific liquor stores, as well as at most supermarkets and even convenience stores.

Drugstores -- Called farmacias in Spanish, drugstores are quite common throughout the country. Those at hospitals and major clinics are often open 24 hours a day.

Electricity -- Guatemala uses standard U.S.-style two- and three-prong electric outlets with 110-volt AC current. Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Embassies & Consulates -- All major consulates and embassies, where present, are in Guatemala City. Canada, 13a Calle 8-44, Zona 10 (tel. 502/2365-1250; www.guatemala.gc.ca); United Kingdom, Avenida de la Reforma and 16a Calle, Torre Internacional, Zona 10 (tel. 502/2367-5425; www.fco.gov.uk); and the United States, Av. de la Reforma 7-01, Zona 10 (tel. 502/2326-4279).

Emergencies -- In case of any emergency, dial tel. 1500 from anywhere in Guatemala. This will connect you to Asistur, which will have a bilingual operator, who in turn can put you in contact with the police, fire department, or ambulance service, as necessary. Alternately, you can dial tel. 110 for the National Police; and tel. 125 for the Red Cross (Cruz Roja, in Spanish). Moreover, tel. 911 works as an emergency number from most phones in Guatemala.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- Gasoline, or gasolina in Spanish, is sold as normal and premium; both are unleaded. Premium is just higher octane. Diesel is available at almost every gas station as well. Most rental cars run on premium, but always ask your rental agent what type of gas your car takes. Gas stations are widely available along the highways, and in all major cities, towns, and tourist destinations. When going off to remote places, try to leave with a full tank of gas because gas stations can be harder to find. At press time, premium cost Q35 ($4.65/£2.35) per gallon.

Holidays -- Official holidays in Guatemala include January 1 (New Year's Day), Thursday and Friday of Holy Week, June 30 (Armed Forces Day), July 1 (Day of Celebration), August 15 (Virgen de la Asunción), September 15 (Independence Day), October 20 (Commemoration of the 1944 Revolution), November 1 (All Saints' Day), December 24 and 25 (Christmas), and December 31 (New Year's Eve).

Hospitals -- The country's best hospitals are in Guatemala City. Hospital Centro Médico, 6a Av. 3-47, Zona 10 (tel. 502/2279-4949), is an excellent private hospital, with English-speaking doctors on staff. Alternately, the Hospital General San Juan de Dios, 1a Avenida and 10a Calle, Zona 1 (tel. 502/2220-8396), is the biggest and best-equipped public hospital in the city.

Internet Access -- Internet cafes are very common in all the major cities and tourist destinations around Guatemala. Rates run between Q3 and Q15 (40¢-$2/20p-£1) per hour.

Language -- Spanish is the official language of Guatemala. English is spoken at most tourist hotels, restaurants, and attractions. Outside of the tourist orbit, English is not widely spoken, and some rudimentary Spanish will go a long way. Some 23 Mayan dialects are also widely spoken around the country. In many rural areas, many residents speak their local dialect as their primary language, and a certain segment of the population may speak little or no Spanish.

Legal Aid -- If you need legal help, your best bet is to first contact your local embassy or consulate. See "Embassies & Consulates" above for contact details. Alternately, you can ask at your hotel, or at a local tour agency that works frequently with foreign visitors.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two.

To report a lost or stolen American Express card from inside Guatemala, you can call tel. 336/393-1111 collect in the U.S.; for MasterCard, tel. 1800/999-1480, or call tel. 636/722-7111 collect in the U.S.; for Visa, tel. 1800/999-0115, or call tel. 410/581-9994 collect in the U.S.; and for Diners Club, call tel. 502/2338-6801, or call collect to tel. 303/799-1504.

If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 502/2360-1737 in Guatemala; www.westernunion.com).

Mail -- A post office is called correo in Spanish. Most towns have a main correo, usually right near the central square. In addition, most hotels will post letters and postcards for you. It costs around Q5 (65¢/35p) to send a letter to the U.S. or Europe. Postcards to the same destinations cost Q3 (40¢/20p). However, it's best to send anything of any value via an established international courier service. DHL, 12a Calle 5-12, Zona 10 (tel. 502/2379-1111; www.dhl.com), UPS, 12a Calle 5-53, Zona 10 (tel. 502/2421-6000; www.ups.com), and Fed Ex, Diagonal 6 12-20, Zona 10 (tel. 502/2411-2100; www.fedex.com), all have offices in Guatemala City, with nationwide coverage for pickup and delivery. DHL also has offices in Antigua and Panajachel.

Maps -- INGUAT (Guatemalan Tourism Commission; tel. 502/2421-2800; www.visitguatemala.com) will provide you with a pretty acceptable map that has the entire country on one side, and Guatemala City and Antigua on the other. The map is free, and you can pick one up at their booth at the airport, or by visiting their downtown Guatemala City office at 7a Av. 1-17, Zona 4.

Measurements -- Guatemala uses the metric system, although gasoline is sold by the gallon.

Newspapers & Magazines -- La Prensa Libre is the country's most highly regarded daily newspaper, with an outstanding investigative reporting staff. The lower-brow Nuestro Diario has the highest circulation. There are several other daily papers, including Siglo XXI. There are currently no English-language newspapers. The free, monthly, English-language Revue Magazine (www.revuemag.com) is the most valuable information source for most tourists, with museum, art gallery, and theater listings. It is widely available at hotels and other tourist haunts around the country.

Police -- In case of an emergency, dial tel. 1500 from anywhere in Guatemala. This will connect you to a bilingual operator at Asistur who can put you in contact with the police, fire department, or ambulance service. Dial tel. 110 or 120 for the National Police, and tel. 125 for the Red Cross (Cruz Roja, in Spanish). As in the U.S., tel. 911 works as an emergency number from most phones in Guatemala.

Smoking -- While not as bad as most of Europe, a large number of Guatemalans smoke, and public smoking regulations and smoke-free zones have yet to take hold. Restaurants are required by law to have nonsmoking areas, but enforcement is often lax, air circulation poor, and the separation almost nonexistent. Bars, discos, and clubs, on the whole, are often very smoke-filled in Guatemala.

Taxes -- There is a Q225 ($30/£15) tax that must be paid upon departure. This is often included in your airline ticket price. Be sure to check in advance. If not, you will have to pay the fee in cash at the airport. There is an additional airport security fee of Q20 ($2.65/£1.35).

A 12% IVA (value added) tax is tacked on to the purchase of all goods and services. An additional 10% tax, on top of the 12% IVA, is added to all hotel rooms and lodgings.

Telegraph, Telex & Fax -- Most hotels have fax machines available for guest use (be sure to ask about the charge to use it).

Telephones -- To call Guatemala: If you're calling Guatemala from the United States:

1. Dial the international access code: 011.

2. Dial the country code 502.

3. Dial the number. The whole number you'd dial for a number in Guatemala would be 011-502-XXXX-XXXX.

To make international calls: To make international calls from Guatemala, first dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next, dial the area code and number. For example, if you want to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., dial 00-1-202-588-7800.

For directory assistance: Dial tel. 2333-1524 if you're looking for a number inside Guatemala, and dial tel. 147-120 for numbers to all other countries.

For operator assistance: If you need operator assistance in making a call, dial tel. 147-120 if you're trying to make an international call, and tel. 147-110 if you want to call a number in Guatemala.

Toll-free numbers: There's no hard and fast rule about toll-free numbers in Guatemala. Numbers beginning with 0800 and 800 are almost always toll-free. However, some toll-free numbers are anomalies. Three-, four-, and six-digit phone numbers are also often toll-free. Calling a 1-800 number in the U.S. from Guatemala is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Time -- Guatemala is 6 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time, which is equivalent to Central Standard Time in the United States. Daylight saving time is observed by setting clocks ahead 1 hour from the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October.

Tipping -- While there is a 12% IVA tax on all goods and services, none of this counts as a tip. In restaurants, a minimum tip of 10% is common and expected. Tip more if the service was exemplary. Taxi drivers do not expect, and are rarely given, a tip.

Toilets -- Public restrooms are hard to come by in Guatemala. You must usually count on the generosity of some hotel or restaurant, or duck into a museum or other attraction. Although it's rare that a tourist would be denied the use of the facilities, you should always ask first.

Useful Phone Numbers -- U.S. Dept. of State Travel Advisory tel. 202/647-5225 (manned 24 hr.); U.S. Passport Agency tel. 202/647-0518; U.S. Centers for Disease Control International Traveler's Hotline tel. 404/332-4559.

In Guatemala, for directory assistance, call tel. 2333-1524; for an international operator and directory assistance, call tel. 147-120. To dial a direct international call, dial tel. 00 + the country code + the area code + the phone number. To get the current time, dial tel. 2333-1526.

Water -- Drink only bottled water within Guatemala City and be especially careful to do so when traveling outside the capital, as waterborne diseases are very common in this country.

Getting There

By Plane

Most international flights land at La Aurora International Airport (tel. 502/2332-6086; airport code GUA). A few international and regional airlines fly directly into Flores Airport (FRS) near Tikal. If you're only interested in visiting the Maya ruins at Tikal and touring the Petén, this is a good option. However, most visitors will want to fly in and out of Guatemala City.

It takes between 3 and 8 hours to fly to Guatemala from most U.S. cities.

The Major Airlines -- From North America -- American Airlines, Delta, Grupo Taca, Iberia, Mexicana, Spirit, and United all have regular flights from a variety of North American hub cities. Presently, there are no direct flights from Canada to Guatemala, so Canadians will have to take a connecting flight via the United States.

From the U.K. & Europe -- There are no direct flights to Guatemala from the U.K., although Iberia does have a direct flight from Madrid. Otherwise, you will have to fly via a major U.S. hub city and connect with one of the airlines mentioned above.

From Australia & New Zealand -- To get to Guatemala from Australia or New Zealand, you'll first have to fly to Los Angeles or some other U.S. hub city, where you can connect with one of the airlines mentioned above.

Getting into Town from the Airport -- You'll find various shuttle companies offering hotel transfers as you exit either the national or international terminal. These companies charge between Q30 and Q60 ($4-$8/£2-£4) to any hotel in Guatemala City, and between Q75 and Q113 ($10-$15/£5-£7.50) to Antigua. Many of the larger hotels also have regular complimentary airport shuttle buses.

If you don't want to wait for the shuttle to fill or sit through various stops before arriving at your hotel, there are always taxis lined up at the airport terminal exits. A taxi downtown will cost around Q45 to Q75 ($6-$10/£3-£5). A taxi to Antigua should cost between Q188 and Q300 ($25-$40/£13-£20). Expect to pay the higher rate, maybe even a little more, after dark.

Avis, Budget, Hertz, National, Tabarini, and Thrifty all have car-rental desks at the airport.

By Bus

Guatemala is connected to Mexico, Belize, El Salvador, and Honduras by regular bus service. If at all possible, it's worth the splurge for a deluxe or express bus. In terms of travel time and convenience, it's always better to get a direct bus rather than one that stops along the way -- and you've got a better chance of getting a working restroom in a direct/express or deluxe bus. Some even have television sets showing video movies.

From Mexico, the principal border crossing is at La Mesilla, north of Huehuetenango. From Honduras, the main border crossing is at El Florido, on the route from Copán. From El Salvador, the main border crossing is at San Cristobal, along the Pan-American Highway. And from Belize, the main border crossing is at Melchor de Mencos, in the Petén district.

There are several bus lines with regular daily departures connecting the major capital cities of Central America. Tica Bus Company (tel. 502/2366-4038; www.ticabus.com) has buses running from Mexico all the way down to Panama, while Pullmantur (tel. 502/2367-4746; www.pullmantur.com) connects Guatemala with daily service to San Salvador, El Salvador, and Tegucigalpa, Honduras.

By Car

It's possible to travel to Guatemala by car, but it can be difficult. The drive from the United States involves crossing the entire country of Mexico from north to south. Driving can be problematic for a variety of reasons, including bad roads, limited services, crime, corrupt border crossings, and visa formalities. If you do decide to undertake this adventure, take the Gulf Coast route from the border crossing at Brownsville, Texas, because it involves traveling the fewest miles through Mexico.

Those planning to travel this route should try to find a copy of Driving the Pan-Am Highway to Mexico and Central America, by Audrey and Raymond Pritchard (Costa Rica Books, 1997), which is out of print, but sometimes available online. There is also a wealth of information online at www.sanbornsinsurance.com and www.drivemeloco.com.

Car Documents -- You will need a current driver's license, as well as your vehicle's registration and the original title (no photocopies), to enter Guatemala.

Central American Auto Insurance -- Contact Sanborn's Insurance Company (tel. 800/222-0158 or 956/686-0711; www.sanbornsinsurance.com), which has agents at various border towns in the U.S. These folks have been servicing this niche for more than 50 years. They can supply you with trip insurance for Mexico and Guatemala (you won't be able to buy insurance after you've left the U.S.), driving tips, and an itinerary.

Car Safety -- Be sure your car is in excellent working order. It's advisable not to drive at night because of the danger of being robbed by bandits.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Mention the fact that you're a senior when you make your travel reservations. Although most of the major U.S. airlines have canceled their senior discount and coupon book programs, many hotels still offer lower rates for seniors. In most cities, people over the age of 60 qualify for reduced admission to theaters, museums, and other attractions.

Members of AARP (formerly known as the American Association of Retired Persons), 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) arranges worldwide study programs for those ages 55 and older. ElderTreks (tel. 800/741-7956 or 416/558-5000 outside North America; www.eldertreks.com) offers small-group tours to off-the-beaten-path or adventure-travel locations, restricted to travelers 50 and older. ElderTreks usually has at least one trip per year touching down in Guatemala.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Although Guatemala does have a law mandating Integral Attention to Persons with Disabilities, and a few non-governmental organizations are addressing the needs of the country's disabled population, there are relatively few handicapped-accessible buildings or vehicles in the country. In most cities, sidewalks are narrow, crowded, and uneven. Few hotels offer wheelchair-accessible accommodations, and there are no public buses thus equipped. In short, it can be difficult for a person with disabilities to get around Guatemala. Still, most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling. There are more options and resources out there than ever before.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS; www.mossresourcenet.org); the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org); and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). AirAmbulanceCard.com is partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of emergency.

Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) has a comprehensive database of travel agents around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel. Avis Rent a Car (tel. 888/879-4273) has an "Avis Access" program that offers services for customers with special travel needs. These include specially outfitted vehicles with swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; mobility scooter rentals; and accessible bus service. Be sure to reserve well in advance.

Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), available by subscription ($16.95 year in the U.S.; $21.95 outside U.S.).

The "Accessible Travel" link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor.com) offers a variety of travel resources to persons with disabilities.

British travelers should contact Holiday Care (tel. 0845-124-9971 in the U.K. only; www.holidaycare.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for the elderly and people with disabilities.

Tips on Accommodations

With the exception of a few large business-class hotels clustered in Guatemala City's Zona Viva, Guatemala has no truly large-scale resorts or hotels. What the country does have is a wealth of intimate and interesting small-to-midsize hotels and resorts. Most of these are quite comfortable and very reasonably priced by most international standards. A few very classy luxury boutique hotels are scattered around the country, and are found with relative abundance in Antigua and around Lake Atitlán. Real budget travelers will find a glut of very acceptable and very inexpensive options all across the country. Warning: Budget-oriented lodgings often feature shared bathrooms and either cold-water showers or showers heated by electrical heat-coil units mounted at the shower head. These are affectionately known as "suicide showers." If your hotel has one, do not try to adjust it while the water is running. Unless specifically noted, all the rooms I've listed in this guide have private bathrooms.

A hotel is sometimes called a posada in Guatemala. As a general rule, a posada is a smaller, more humble, and less luxurious option than a hotel. However, there are some very serious exceptions to this rule, particularly in Antigua, where some of the finest accommodations are called posadas.

In general, prices drop dramatically outside of Guatemala City and the more popular destinations like Antigua, Lake Atitlán, and Tikal. In fact, outside of these destinations, you'll find very few hotel options charging more than Q600 ($80/£40) per night for a double, even for the swankiest room in town.

If you're traveling on a budget and staying in some of the less expensive hotels, one item you're likely to want to bring with you is a towel. Your hotel might not provide one at all, and even if it does, it might be awfully thin.

Note: Air-conditioning is not necessarily a given in many midscale hotels and even some upscale joints. In general, this is not a problem. Cooler nights and a well-placed ceiling fan are often more than enough to keep things pleasant, unless I mention otherwise in the hotel reviews.

Throughout this guide, I've separated hotel listings into several broad categories: Very Expensive, $120 (£60) and up; Expensive, $80 to $120 (£40-£60); Moderate, $45 to $80 (£23-£40); and Inexpensive, under $45 (£23) double. Unless otherwise noted, rates given in this book do not include the 12% IVA and 10% hotel tax. These taxes will add considerably to the cost of your room, so do factor them in.

Frommer's uses a zero- to three-star rating system. This star system is a relative system, and not necessarily on a par with standard industry star-rating systems. A truly special bed-and-breakfast, run with style and aplomb, may get two or three stars, even though the rooms do not have televisions or air-conditioning. Meanwhile, a large resort with a host of modern amenities may receive one or no stars. Every hotel listed is in some way recommended. This guide is selective, and I've done my best to list the best options in each price range and each region, while weeding out the hotels you should not even bother with.

Autohotels -- One type of hotel you may run across, especially in Guatemala City, is an autohotel. Autohotels are not self-service affairs -- except for the most desperate. They are, however, semi-discreet operations used mainly for romantic liaisons. Most autohotels feature rooms with two-car garages with doors or curtains so that nosy spouses or private eyes cannot see the license plates. Autohotels rent out by the hour, and are usually not of very much interest to the average tourist.

Escorted & Package Tours

Before you start your search for the lowest airfare, you may want to consider booking your flight as part of a travel package. Package tours are not the same thing as escorted tours. Package tours are simply a way to buy the airfare, accommodations, and other elements of your trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, and sometimes even activities) at the same time and often at discounted prices -- kind of like one-stop shopping. Packages are sold in bulk to tour operators -- who resell them to the public at a cost that often undercuts standard rates.

Before you book your package through a tour company, remember that with a few phone calls and e-mails, you can often organize the same thing on your own without having to pay the sometimes hefty service fee. This guide contains all the information and resources you need to design and book a wonderful trip, tailored to your particular interests and budget. Moreover, package vacations are still a nascent industry in Guatemala and do not offer the kinds of amazing bargains as those to Cancún or the Caribbean. In fact, many come with hidden charges and costs, so shop carefully.

Your best bet is often to do it yourself or to go with a Guatemalan-based specialist; many of these companies emphasize adventure travel or ecotourism and can put together a complete custom itinerary for you.

Package tours can vary by leaps and bounds. Some offer a better class of hotels than others. Some offer the same hotels for lower prices. Some offer flights on scheduled airlines, while others book charters. Some limit your choice of accommodations and travel days. You are often required to make a large payment upfront. On the plus side, packages can save you money, offering group prices but allowing for independent travel. Some even let you add on a few guided excursions or escorted day trips (also at prices lower than if you booked them yourself) without booking an entirely escorted tour.

Before you invest in a package tour, get some answers. Ask about the accommodations choices and prices for each. Then look up the hotels' reviews in a Frommer's guide and check their rates online for your specific dates of travel. You'll also want to find out what type of room you get. If you need a certain type of room, ask for it; don't take whatever is thrown your way. Request a nonsmoking room, a quiet room, a room with a view, or whatever you fancy.

Travel packages are also listed in the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper. Or check ads in the national travel magazines such as Budget Travel Magazine, Travel + Leisure, National Geographic Traveler, and Condé Nast Traveler.

Ask Before You Go -- Before you invest in a package deal or an escorted tour:

• Always ask about the cancellation policy. Can you get your money back? Is a deposit required?
• Request a complete schedule. (Escorted tours only)
• Ask about the size and demographics of the group. (Escorted tours only)
• Discuss what is included in the price (transportation, meals, tips, airport transfers, and the like). (Escorted tours only)
• Finally, look for hidden expenses. Ask whether airport departure fees and taxes, for example, are included in the total cost -- they rarely are.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare, hotels, and meals to tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

Despite the fact that escorted tours require big deposits and predetermine hotels, restaurants, and itineraries, many people derive security and peace of mind from the structure they offer. Escorted tours -- whether they're navigated by bus, motorcoach, train, or boat -- let travelers sit back and enjoy the trip without having to drive or worry about details. They take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle. They're particularly convenient for people with limited mobility and can be a great way to make new friends.

Escorted tours are also a good bet in Guatemala, since safety and the conditions of internal travel can be daunting for many independent travelers

On the downside, you'll have little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jampacked with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure -- plus they also often focus on the heavily visited sites, so you miss out on many a lesser-known gem.

Before you invest in a package tour, get some answers. Ask about the accommodations choices and prices for each. You'll also want to find out what type of room you get. If you need a certain type of room, ask for it. Also ask about the group size and demographics, as well as the company's cancellation policy.

Recommended Escorted-and Package-Tour Operators

North American-Based Tour Operators -- These agencies and operators specialize in well-organized and coordinated tours that cover your entire stay. Many travelers prefer to have everything arranged and confirmed before arriving in Guatemala, and this is a good idea for first-timers.

• Abercrombie & Kent (tel. 800/554-7016; www.abercrombiekent.com) is a luxury tour company that offers upscale trips around the globe. Their 12-day "Guatemala & Honduras: A Cultural & Photographic Sojurn" hits all of the major sites and destinations, and includes 2 days at the Copán ruins in Honduras. Cost is around $6,995 (£3,498) per person, airfare not included.

U.K.-Based Tour Operators --

• Imaginative Traveller (tel. 0800/316-2717 or 44/147-366-7337; www.imaginative-traveller.com) is a good-value operator specializing in budget student, group, and family travel. Their offerings focus on the larger Maya world, and spend time in parts of southern Mexico and Belize. They do two different 14-day trips and a 28-day trip, which combines the two. Around $1,170 (£585) to $2,098 (£1,049) per person. Airfare not included.

Guatemalan Tour Operators -- Because many U.S.-based companies subcontract portions of their tours to established Guatemalan companies, some travelers like to set up their tours directly with these companies, thereby cutting out the middleman. While that means these packages are often less expensive than those offered by U.S. companies, it doesn't mean they're cheap. You still pay for the convenience of having all your arrangements handled for you.

Scores of tour agencies in Guatemala City, Antigua, and the other major tourist destinations offer a plethora of sightseeing and adventure options. These agencies, and the tour desks at most hotels, can arrange everything from tours of the Maya ruins to village market shopping sprees. While it's generally quite easy to arrange most of these popular tours and adventures at the spur of the moment during your vacation, some are offered only when there are enough interested people or on set dates. If you have a specialized tour or activity in mind, it pays to contact the hotel you will be staying at or a few of the companies listed here before you leave home to find out what they might be doing when you arrive.

• Clark Tours (tel. 502/2412-4848; www.clarktours.com.gt) has been operating for more than 70 years in Guatemala, making it the oldest tour company in the country. They have several offices and are the official representatives of American Express in Guatemala. They offer many tours, including an afternoon in Antigua for around Q225 ($30/£15) per person; 2- to 4-day archaeology trips starting at around Q3,000 ($400/£200) per person; and the 14-day Antigua, Lake Atitlán, Chichicastenango, and Tikal trip for around Q13,500 ($1,800/£900) per person.

Staying Connected

Phones & Faxes

Guatemala has a modern and extensive telephone network reaching most of the country. However, cellphones are becoming far more common and readily available than land lines.

Pay phones are very rare these days. However, calling cards for both cellphones and land lines are widely available at general stores and pharmacies all over the country.

Most hotels will let you send and receive faxes for a fee; however, their phone charges tend to be high so I recommend getting a calling card.

Your best bet for making international calls it to head to any Internet cafe with an international calling option. These cafes have connections to Skype, Vonage, Net2Phone, or some other VoIP service. International calls made this way can range anywhere from 5¢ (5p) to $1 (50p) per minute. If you have your own Skype or similar account, you just need to find an Internet cafe that provides a computer with a headset.

There are no area codes inside Guatemala. To make a call inside Guatemala, simply dial the eight-digit number.

To place a call from your home country to Guatemala, dial the international access code (011 in the U.S. and Canada, 0011 in Australia, 0170 in New Zealand, 00 in the U.K.), plus the country code (502), followed by the eight-digit number.

To place a direct international call from Guatemala, dial the international access code (00), plus the country code of the place you are dialing, plus the area code and the local number.

For directory assistance, call tel. 2333-1524; for an international operator and directory assistance, call tel. 147-120.

Cellphones

The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. In the U.S., T-Mobile, AT&T Wireless, and Cingular use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM; and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. All of Guatemala's cellphone networks are GSM.

If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone such as many Sony Ericsson, Motorola, or Samsung models, you can make and receive calls across civilized areas around much of the globe, from Andorra to Uganda. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high -- usually $1.50 (£75) to $4 (£2) in Guatemala.

In Guatemala, there are several competing cellphone companies and networks. The main companies are Claro (tel. 502/2420-1414; www.claro.com.gt), which is a division of Telgua, the national telephone company; Movistar (tel. 502/2379-1960; www.movistar.com.gt), a division of the international firm Telefonica; and Tigo (tel. 502/2428-0000; www.tigo.com.gt). All of these companies sell prepaid GSM chips that can be used in any unlocked tri-band GSM cellphone. Most companies charge around a Q50 ($6.65/£3.35) activation fee, and this usually includes a few quetzales worth of talk time. All have numerous outlets across the country, in most major cities and tourist destinations, including La Aurora International Airport. Moreover, all of these outlets and shops all over the country sell activated new phones for as little as Q100 ($13/£6.50), and this also usually includes a few quetzales worth of talk time. The ready access to activated new phones at such low prices makes renting a phone unnecessary. Once your minutes run out, prepaid calling cards are widely available, and come in denominations from Q10 to Q200 ($1.35-$26/70p-£14).

Voice-Over Internet Protocol (VOIP)

If you have Web access while traveling, consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice-over Internet protocol, or VoIP) such as Skype (www.skype.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allow you to make free international calls from your laptop or in a cybercafe. Neither service requires the people you're calling to also have that service (though there are fees if they do not). Check the websites for details.

Even if you don't have your own Skype or Vonage account, Internet cafes in most major tourist destinations in Guatemala usually offer the option of making international calls over their VoIP connections. Rates range anywhere from 5¢ (5p) to $1 (50p) per minute.

Internet & E-Mail

Travelers have any number of ways to check e-mail and access the Internet on the road. Of course, using your own laptop -- or even a PDA (personal digital assistant) or electronic organizer with a modem -- gives you the most flexibility. But even if you don't have a computer, you can access your e-mail and your office computer from cybercafes.

With Your Own Computer -- In general, only the more upscale and technologically savvy hotels, cafes, and retailers in Guatemala are offering Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) hot spots. However, this is rapidly changing and expanding. In Antigua and Guatemala City (especially in the Zona Viva), you'll find a range of hotels, restaurants, and cafes that offer free Wi-Fi connections. Wherever possible, I've listed this in the hotel or restaurant descriptions throughout the book. To a lesser extent, you will find Wi-Fi connections becoming available around Lake Atitlán, Quetzaltenango, Flores, and Santa Elena, and even in some of the more remote destinations around the country.

Guatemala uses standard U.S.-style two- and three-prong electric outlets with 110-volt AC current, and standard U.S.-style phone jacks. Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Without Your Own Computer -- In Guatemala, you'll readily find cybercafes in most cities and towns, and every major tourist destination. Heck, there are even cybercafes in Livingston and Monterrico. Although there's no definitive directory for cybercafes -- these are independent businesses, after all -- two places to start looking are at www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com.

Aside from formal cybercafes, many hotels have at least one computer with Internet access. However, I recommend you avoid hotel business centers unless you're willing to pay exorbitant rates.

Tips for Black Travelers

The Internet offers a number of helpful travel sites for African-American travelers. Black Travel Online (www.blacktravelonline.com) posts news on upcoming events and includes links to articles and travel-booking sites. Soul of America (www.soulofamerica.com) is a comprehensive website with travel tips, event and family-reunion postings, and sections on historically black beach resorts and active vacations.

Agencies and organizations that provide resources for black travelers include Rodgers Travel (tel. 800/825-1775; www.rodgerstravel.com), a Philadelphia-based travel agency with an extensive menu of tours in destinations worldwide, including heritage and private-group tours; the African American Association of Innkeepers International (tel. 877/422-5777; www.africanamericaninns.com), which provides information on member B&Bs in the U.S., Canada, and the Caribbean; and Henderson Travel & Tours (tel. 800/327-2309 or 301/650-5700; www.hendersontravel.com), which has specialized in trips to Africa since 1957. For more information, check out the following collections and guides: Go Girl: The Black Woman's Guide to Travel & Adventure (Eighth Mountain Press), a compilation of travel essays by writers including Jill Nelson and Audre Lorde, with some practical information and trip-planning advice; The African American Travel Guide by Wayne Robinson (Hunter Publishing; www.hunterpublishing.com), with details on 19 North American cities; Steppin' Out by Carla Labat (Avalon), with details on 20 cities; Travel and Enjoy Magazine (tel. 866/266-6211; www.travelandenjoy.com; subscription $38 per year), which focuses on discounts and destination reviews; and the more narrative Pathfinders Magazine (tel. 877/977-PATH; www.pathfinderstravel.com; subscription $15 per year), which includes articles on everywhere from Rio de Janeiro to Ghana as well as information on upcoming ski, diving, golf, and tennis trips.

Health & Insurance

Staying healthy on a trip to Guatemala is predominantly a matter of being cautious about what you eat and drink, and using common sense. Know your physical limits, and don't overexert yourself. Respect the tropical sun and protect yourself from it. Limit your exposure to the sun, especially during the first few days of your trip and, thereafter, from 11am to 2pm. Use a sunscreen with a high protection factor, and apply it liberally. Remember that children need more protection than adults do. I recommend buying and drinking bottled water or soft drinks everywhere you travel in Guatemala. Those wishing to really stay on the side of caution should avoid any drinks with ice in them, as well as any raw fruits or vegetables that may have been washed in unsafe water. In general, fruits and vegetables that are peeled -- bananas, oranges, avocados -- are safe. The sections below deal with specific health concerns in Guatemala.

Before You Go

No specific vaccines are required for traveling to Guatemala. That said, many doctors recommend vaccines for hepatitis A and B, as well as up-to-date booster shots for tetanus.

Your existing health plan might provide the coverage you need, but double-check; you might want to buy travel medical insurance instead. Bring your insurance ID card with you when you travel.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. For conditions such as epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert identification tag (tel. 800/825-3785; www.medicalert.org), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert's 24-hour hot line.

Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry prescription medications in their original containers. Also, bring along copies of your prescriptions in case you lose your pills or run out, and carry the generic name of prescription medicines in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name. And don't forget an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883 or 416/652-0137 in Canada; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting and lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country, and offers tips on food safety. The website www.tripprep.com, sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable overseas clinics at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

General Availability of Healthcare

Guatemala's public healthcare system is overburdened, under-funded, and outdated. Massive strikes in the sector during 2006 only exacerbated the problem. Throughout the book, I've listed the nearest public hospital and, when available, private hospital or clinic. Still, when you're in Guatemala, your hotel or local embassy will be your best source of information and aid in finding emergency care or a doctor who speaks English. Most state-run hospitals and walk-in clinics around the country have emergency rooms that can treat most conditions. However, I highly recommend that you seek out a specialist recommended by your hotel or embassy if your condition is not life-threatening and can wait for treatment until you reach one of them.

Common Ailments

Tropical Illnesses -- Your chance of contracting any serious tropical disease in Guatemala is slim, especially if you stick to the well-worn tourist destinations. However, malaria and dengue fever both exist in Guatemala, so it's a good idea to know what they are.

Malaria is found in rural areas across the country, particularly in the lowlands on both coasts and in the Petén. There is little to no chance of contracting malaria in Guatemala City or Antigua. Malaria prophylaxes are available, but several have side effects, and others are of questionable effectiveness. Consult your doctor regarding what is currently considered the best preventive treatment for malaria. Be sure to ask whether a recommended drug will cause you hypersensitivity to the sun. Because malaria-carrying mosquitoes usually come out at night, you should do as much as possible to avoid being bitten after dark. If you are in a malarial area, wear long pants and long sleeves, use insect repellent, and either sleep under a mosquito net or burn mosquito coils (similar to incense, but with a pesticide).

Of greater concern is dengue fever, which has been spreading throughout Latin America since the mid-1990s. Dengue fever is similar to malaria, and is spread by an aggressive daytime mosquito. This mosquito actually seems to prefer populated areas, and dengue has occurred throughout the country. Dengue is also known as "bone-break fever" because it is usually accompanied by severe body aches. The first infection with dengue fever will make you very sick but should cause no serious damage. However, a second infection with a different strain of the dengue virus can lead to internal hemorrhaging and could be life-threatening.

Many people are convinced that taking B-complex vitamins daily will help prevent mosquitoes from biting you. I don't think the American Medical Association has endorsed this idea yet, but I've run across it in enough places to think that there might be something to it.

If you develop a high fever accompanied by severe body aches, nausea, diarrhea, or vomiting during or shortly after a visit to Guatemala, consult a physician as soon as possible.

Amoebas, Parasites, Diarrhea & Other Intestinal Woes -- Guatemala suffers from periodic outbreaks of cholera, a severe intestinal disease whose symptoms include severe diarrhea and vomiting. However, these outbreaks usually occur in predominantly rural and very impoverished areas. Your chances of contracting cholera while you're in Guatemala are very slight.

Other food and waterborne illnesses can mimic the symptoms of cholera and are far more common. These range from simple traveler's diarrhea to salmonella. Even though you've been careful to buy bottled water, order your licuado en leche (fruit shakes made with milk rather than water), and drink your soft drink warm (without ice cubes -- which are made from water, after all), you still might encounter some intestinal difficulties. Most of this is just due to tender northern stomachs coming into contact with slightly more aggressive Latin American intestinal flora. In extreme cases of diarrhea or intestinal discomfort, it's worth taking a stool sample to a lab for analysis. The results will usually pinpoint the amoebic or parasitic culprit, which can then be readily treated with available over-the-counter medicines.

Except in the most established and hygienic of restaurants, it's also advisable to avoid ceviche, a raw seafood salad, especially if it has any shellfish in it. It could be home to any number of bacterial critters.

In the event you experience any intestinal woe, staying well hydrated is the most important step. Be sure to drink plenty of bottled water, as well as some electrolyte-enhanced sports drinks, if possible.

Tropical Sun -- Limit your exposure to the sun, especially during the first few days of your trip and, thereafter, from 11am to 2pm. Use a sunscreen with a high protection factor, and apply it liberally. Remember that children need more protection than adults.

Riptides -- Most of Guatemala's Pacific coast beaches have riptides: strong currents that can drag swimmers out to sea. A riptide occurs when water that has been dumped on the shore by strong waves forms a channel back out to open water. These channels have strong currents. If you get caught in a riptide, you can't escape the current by swimming toward shore; it's like trying to swim upstream in a river. To break free of the current, swim parallel to shore and use the energy of the waves to help you get back to the beach.

Bees, Snakes & Bugs -- Although Guatemala has Africanized bees (the notorious "killer bees" of fact and fable), scorpions, spiders, and several species of venomous snakes, your chances of being bitten are minimal, especially if you refrain from sticking your hands into hives or under rocks in the forest. If you know that you're allergic to bee stings, consult your doctor before traveling.

Snake sightings, much less snakebites, are very rare. Moreover, the majority of snakes in Guatemala are nonpoisonous. If you do encounter a snake, stay calm, don't make any sudden movements, and don't try to handle it. As recommended above, avoid sticking your hand under rocks, branches, and fallen trees.

Scorpions, black widow spiders, tarantulas, bullet ants, and other biting insects can all be found in Guatemala. In general, they are not nearly the danger or nuisance most visitors fear. Watch where you stick your hands, and shake out your clothes and shoes before putting them on to avoid any unpleasant and painful surprises.

What to Do If You Get Sick away from Home

Any foreign embassy or consulate can provide a list of area doctors who speak English. If you get sick, consider asking your hotel staff or concierge to recommend a local doctor -- even his or her own. You can also try the emergency room at a local hospital. Many hospitals also have walk-in clinics for emergency cases that are not life-threatening; you may not get immediate attention, but you won't pay the high price of an emergency room visit.

Safety

Guatemala is a violent country, with gross civil injustice, extreme economic hardship, and frequent public unrest and protests. Guatemala still bears the wounds and ongoing effects of its brutal 30-year civil war. The police and judicial systems are far outmatched by the levels of crime and violence. However, most of this crime and violence is internal. Most of the popular tourist areas have a strong police presence, and the situation has improved in recent years. A specialized branch of the police force, POLITUR, has been created especially to deal with tourists and crimes against tourists. That said, robberies and pickpocketing are the greatest problem facing most tourists in Guatemala. Crowded markets, public buses, and busy urban areas are the prime haunts of criminals and pickpockets. Never carry a lot of cash or wear very valuable jewelry. Men should avoid having wallets in your back pockets, and women should keep tight grips on your purses. (Keep it tucked under your arm.) Thieves also target gold chains, cameras and video cameras, prominent jewelry, and nice sunglasses. Be sure not to leave valuables in your hotel room.

Rental cars generally stick out, and are easily spotted by thieves. Don't ever leave anything of value in a car parked on the street, not even for a moment. Also be wary of solicitous strangers who stop to help you change a tire or bring you to a service station. Although most are truly good Samaritans, there have been reports of thieves preying on roadside breakdowns. Public intercity buses are also frequent targets of stealthy thieves. Never check your bags into the hold of a bus if you can avoid it. If this can't be avoided, when the bus makes a stop, keep your eye on what leaves the hold. If you put your bags in an overhead rack, be sure you can see the bags at all times. Try not to fall asleep.

The local Maya people are very uneasy about having their picture taken. Many, in the more touristy areas, have parlayed this into a means of earning a few quetzales by charging to have their picture taken. In the more rural areas, a rude or disrespectful foreign shutterbug can earn the strong and sometimes vocal disdain of the local population. Always ask permission before taking photographs of people.

Political gatherings to protest current economic and social conditions are not uncommon. The most common form that will affect any tourist is road and highway blockades. There's really little you can do to avoid this; however, a fair amount of patience and some compassion will ease the bother and lower your stress levels. Many of these protests and blockades are announced in advance in the newspapers. If you have an important flight or connection, and you have a long ride to the airport, ask your hotel to check on any alerts, and be sure to leave plenty of time for your drive to the airport.

Insurance

Medical Insurance -- For foreign travel, most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront and reimburse you only after you return home.

As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance, particularly if you're traveling to a remote or high-risk area where emergency evacuation might be necessary. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com; for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc., at tel. 800/777-8710).

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated overseas.

Travelers from the U.K. should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaced the E111 form as proof of entitlement to free/reduced cost medical treatment abroad (tel. 0845/606-2030; www.ehic.org.uk). Note, however, that the EHIC only covers "necessary medical treatment," and for repatriation costs, lost money, baggage, or cancellation, travel insurance from a reputable company should always be sought (www.travelinsuranceweb.com).

Travel Insurance -- The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com, which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multi-trip policies.

Most big travel agents offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel. 020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033-9988; www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip-Cancellation Insurance -- Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and State Department advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" cancellation coverage -- which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 888/885-7233; www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages. For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Visitor Information

The Guatemalan Tourism Commission (INGUAT), 7a Av. 1-17, Zona 4, Guatemala City (www.visitguatemala.com), is the principal informational and promotional arm of the Guatemalan government. You can call them toll-free from the United States and Canada at tel. 800/464-8281, or directly in Guatemala at tel. 502/2421-2800. Once you land in Guatemala, INGUAT has an information booth inside the airport. The booth supplies maps and brochures, and will often make a call for you if you need a last-minute hotel or car rental reservation. INGUAT also maintains offices or information booths at several of the major tourist destinations around the country.

In addition to INGUAT's official website, you'll be able to find a wealth of Web-based information on Guatemala with a few clicks of your mouse.

Destination Guatemala: Red Alert Checklist

• Take the address and phone number of your country's embassy or consulate with you.
• Make any restaurant or travel reservations that need to be booked in advance prior to leaving home.
• Did you find out your daily ATM withdrawal limit? Do you know your credit card PINs?
• Did you check with your bank to see if your credit or debit card will work in Guatemala? While many of Guatemala's ATMs will work fine with five- and six-digit PINs, some will only accept four-digit PINs. Before traveling, it's wise to change your PIN to avoid any unexpected hassles in getting cash.
• If you purchased traveler's checks, record the check numbers and store the documentation separately from the checks.
• Have a safe, accessible place to store money.
• Bring emergency drug prescriptions and extra glasses and/or contact lenses.
• Leave a copy of your itinerary with someone at home.

Tips for Student Travelers

Check out the International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC; www.istc.org) website for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; tel. 132-782 in Australia; tel. 0871/230-0040 in the U.K.; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide. If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1904; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Tips for Women Travelers

For lack of better phrasing, Guatemala is a typically "macho" Latin American nation. Misogyny and violence against women, while not rampant, are part of the social fabric. Women should be careful walking alone at night throughout the country. More and more hotels are ratcheting up security measures for women traveling alone on business or for pleasure. Some are even offering secure "women only" floors, with the added perk of spa services.

Check out the award-winning website Journeywoman (www.journeywoman.com), a "real life" women's travel information network where you can sign up for a free e-mail newsletter and get advice on everything from etiquette and dress to safety; or the travel guide Safety and Security for Women Who Travel by Sheila Swan and Peter Laufer (Travelers' Tales, Inc.), offering common-sense tips on safe travel.

Regions in Brief

Guatemala City -- Set on a high, broad plateau and surrounded by volcanic peaks, Guatemala City is the largest city in the country, and the only one with a contemporary, modern feel to it. That said, with a population of more than three million, the city is overwhelmingly a sprawling, congested, confusing, and polluted urban mess. Guatemala City has a small but vibrant arts-and-nightlife scene, as well as some of the finest hotels and restaurants in the country. The city sits at an elevation of 1,469m (4,897 ft.) above sea level, and enjoys moderate temperatures year-round. Home to the country's principal international airport and bus connections to every corner of the country, Guatemala City serves as a de facto transportation hub for most, if not all, visitors.

Antigua -- This small colonial city lies just 40km (25 miles) southwest of Guatemala City. For a couple hundred years, it was the nation's capital, until a series of devastating earthquakes and mudslides forced its evacuation. Like its neighbor and the current capital, Antigua is also set in a valley surrounded by towering volcanic mountain peaks. However, the Antigua valley is much, much smaller. The entire colonial city is little more than 10 blocks by 10 blocks, with a bit more modern urban sprawl around the edges. The city is one of the most well-preserved examples of a colonial city in the Americas. The colonial core of Antigua is a living museum, with rough cobblestone streets and restored colonial-era buildings, mixed in with a few newer constructions that maintain the colonial style and feel. Combined with this living museum are a host of actual museums, and ruined and restored examples of grand churches, convents, and monasteries. From Antigua, the Agua and Fuego volcanoes are clearly visible.

Lake Atitlán -- Lake Atitlán is technically part of the Western Highlands, but for the purposes of this book, and in the minds of most travelers, it is a world unto itself. Lake Atitlán is a beautiful mountain lake that is actually the filled-in crater of a massive volcano. It's hard to imagine this, since today, several more volcanoes rise from around the shores and tower over the lake. More than 16km (10 miles) across at its widest point, Lake Atitlán has a series of small villages and a few major towns lining its shores. While roads connect all of these towns (in many cases they are rough dirt and gravel), the main means of transportation between the various towns and villages is by boat and boat taxi. The main town and gateway to Lake Atitlán is Panajachel, which sits on the northern shore of the lake. Other major towns include Santa Catarina Palopó and San Antonio Palopó to the east of Panajachel, and Santiago de Atitlán and San Pedro La Laguna across the lake to the south.

The Western Highlands -- The area to the west and northwest of Guatemala City is widely referred to as the Western Highlands, or Altiplano (the "Highlands" in Spanish). This is the heart of Guatemala's rural Maya population. Following the collapse of the major Maya empires of the Petén and lowland coastal regions, many fled in small groups and family units to Altiplano. Today, the Western Highlands are populated with a dense patchwork of small, rural farming communities spread around the rough, steep, mountainous region. The towns and cities of Chichicastenango, Quetzaltenango, and Huehuetenango serve as central market and commercial centers for the smaller surrounding communities. The Western Highlands are home to Guatemala's greatest artisans, and are the best place in the country to purchase a wide array of arts, crafts, carvings, and textile products. Perhaps the most famous place to buy these goods is the twice-weekly market held in Chichicastenango. Those looking for a taste of the real rural Maya Altiplano should visit the village of Nebaj and the surrounding area, known as the Ixil Triangle.

The Petén -- The Petén, or El Petén, is Guatemala's largest and least populated province. It occupies the entire northeastern section of the country, and borders Mexico to the north and Belize to the east. It's an area of lush primary tropical rainforest, within which lies an immense natural wealth of flora and fauna, as well as many of Mesoamerica's most amazing archaeological treasures. In 1990, the government of Guatemala officially established the Maya Biosphere Reserve, a tract of 1 million hectares (2.5 million acres) that includes most of the Petén province. Moreover, the Maya Biosphere Reserve adjoins the neighboring Calakmul Biosphere Reserve in Mexico and the Río Bravo Conservation Area in Belize, comprising a joint protected area of more than 2 million hectares (5 million acres).

The only major population centers of note in El Petén are the sister cities of Santa Elena and Flores. In addition to the world-renowned ruins of Tikal, visitors to the Petén can visit the archaeological sites of Yaxhá, El Ceibal, El Mirador, and Uaxactún, to name just a few.

Central Guatemala -- The central section of Guatemala comprises the general area east of Guatemala City, before the Atlantic Lowlands. This is the country's most up-and-coming tourist destination, and includes the Alta Verapaz and Baja Verapaz regions, as well as El Oriente, or the "East." Just over the border in Honduras lie the fabulous Maya ruins of Copán, which are often included as a stop on a more complex itinerary through Guatemala. Las Verapaces (the plural for the combined Alta Verapaz and Baja Verapaz) is a rich highland region with numerous opportunities to go white-water rafting or cave exploring. It's also home to several of Guatemala's most stunning natural areas, including the pools and waterfalls of Semuc Champey and the turquoise splendor of Lake Lachuá.

To the south and east of Las Verapaces lies El Oriente. Most visitors come here to visit the town of Esquipulas. Housed in the impressive Basílica of Esquipulas is the famous statue, the Black Christ. Believed to have magical, curative, and wish-giving powers, the church and its Christ attract more than one million pilgrims a year.

Atlantic Lowlands -- The common name for this region is a gross misnomer -- Guatemala actually borders the Caribbean Sea. However, most Guatemalan maps, books, and tourist information sources refer to this region as the Atlantic coast or Atlantic lowlands, and the highway is officially known as La Carretera al Atlántico (the Atlantic Hwy.). That quibble aside, this is a beautiful and often neglected part of Guatemala. The region really begins around Lago Izabal, the largest freshwater lake in the country. From Lago Izabal, the Río Dulce (Sweet River) runs gently down to the sea. Along the way it passes through rich primary forests, several nature reserves, and beautiful steep-walled canyons.

Another primary attraction on the Caribbean coast is the small Garífuna village of Livingston. The Garífuna are a unique race born of the intermarriage between escaped slaves and Carib Indians. Livingston, which is known as La Buga in the local Garífuna language, is only accessible by boat. The rainforests around Livingston are great for bird-watching and wildlife-viewing.

Located just off the Atlantic Highway are the Maya ruins of Quiriguá, which contain some wonderful examples of carved monumental stelae and stone rocks.

Pacific Slope -- Below the mountain chains that run the length of Guatemala, from Mexico down to El Salvador, the land gently slopes off and flattens out before meeting the Pacific Ocean. This is a hot and steamy agricultural region with large sugar-cane, pineapple, and banana plantations. Spread throughout this agricultural land are several lesser-known Maya and pre-Maya ruins. Of these, Takalik Abaj and Finca El Baúl are worth a visit by anyone truly interested in ancient Mesoamerican archaeology. In general, the beaches of Guatemala's Pacific coast have dark sand, rough surf, and little development. Given the length of this coastline, there are few developed beach destinations and resorts. If you expect the same kind of beach experience offered throughout the Caribbean, or even the rest of Central America and Mexico, you will be disappointed. The most popular beach town on the Pacific coast is Monterrico, which has a handful of small hotels and resorts. The nearby port towns of Puerto Quetzal, Iztapa, and Puerto San José have garnered well-deserved reputations as top-notch sportfishing centers, with excellent opportunities to land marlin, sailfish, and other deep-sea game fish just offshore.

When to Go

The tourist high season runs December through March, coinciding with the winter months in most northern countries. It also coincides with Guatemala's dry season. Throughout this season, and especially around the Christmas and Easter holidays, hotels can be booked solid well in advance, so be sure to have a reservation, especially in the more popular tourist spots. Easter and Holy Week are major holidays in Guatemala and in Antigua specifically. Hotels in Antigua are booked solid as much as a year in advance.

In general, the best time of year to visit weather-wise is in December and January, when everything is still green from the rains, but the sky is clear. If you want to avoid the crowds, I recommend traveling during "shoulder" periods, near the end or beginning of the rainy season, when the weather is still pretty good. Note: Some of the country's rugged roads become downright impassable without four-wheel-drive during the rainy season.

Climate -- Guatemala is a tropical country and has distinct wet and dry seasons. However, some regions are rainy all year, and others are very dry and sunny for most of the year. Temperatures vary primarily with elevations, not with seasons: On the coasts it's hot all year, while up in the mountains and highlands, it can be quite cool at night and in the early morning, before the sun heats things up, any time of year. At the highest elevations (3,500-4,000m/11,500-13,120 ft.), frost is common.

Generally, the rainy season (or invierno, winter) is May through October. The dry season (or verano, summer) runs from November to April. Along the Pacific Coast, the dry season lasts several weeks longer than in other places. Even in the rainy season, days often start sunny, with rain falling in the afternoon and evening. On the Atlantic coast, the weather is less predictable, and you can get rain year-round, though this area gets less rain in July and August than the rest of the country. The rainforests of the Petén get the heaviest rainfall, and the rainy season here lasts at least until mid-November. The chart below is for Guatemala City, which has similar temperatures to Antigua, Lake Atitlán, and Chichicastenango. Conditions are different in the Petén, Central Highlands, and both the Atlantic and Pacific coasts.

Holidays -- Because Guatemala is a predominantly Roman Catholic country, most of its holidays are church-related. The biggies are Christmas, New Year's, and Easter, which are all celebrated for several days. Keep in mind that Holy Week (Easter week) is a major holiday time in Guatemala. Government offices and banks are closed on official holidays, transportation services are reduced, and stores and markets might also close.

Official holidays in Guatemala include January 1 (New Year's Day), Thursday and Friday of Holy Week, June 30 (Armed Forces Day), July 1 (Day of Celebration), August 15 (Virgen de la Asunción), September 15 (Independence Day), October 20 (Commemoration of the 1944 Revolution), November 1 (All Saints' Day), December 24 and 25 (Christmas), and December 31 (New Year's Eve).

Special-Interest Vacations

There are plenty of options for active, adventure, or theme vacations to Guatemala. Popular themes and activities include bird-watching, Maya archaeology, cave explorations, and mountain biking. In many cases, you may want to add on a specific theme tour or partake in some adventure activity as an a la carte option within the broader scope of your trip to Guatemala. However, some of you may want to build your entire itinerary around a specific theme or activity. The agencies listed below specialize in adventure tourism or specialized activities, as indicated. In addition to the agencies and operators listed below, most of the package and escort tour operators listed above offer a selection of themed specialty tours or adventure options.

General Adventure Tour & Special-Interest Tour Operators

• Adrenalina Tours (tel. 502/7832-1108 or 5535-6831; www.adrenalinatours.com). Not for pregnant women or those with heart conditions. This Guatemalan-based company specializes in strenuous hikes and volcano climbs -- one is rated "dangerous due to toxic gases." They also offer 4WD off-road tours, with a vehicle, driver, and multilingual guide, for Q1,125 ($150/£75) per day, among their many options.

Special-Interest Trips

Language Classes -- Guatemala is a major destination for folks looking to learn or brush up on some Spanish. You can find courses of varying lengths and degrees of intensiveness, and many that include cultural activities and day excursions. Some of the schools have reciprocal relationships with U.S. universities so, in some cases, you can even arrange for college credit. Most Spanish schools can arrange for homestays with a local Guatemalan family for a total-immersion experience. These homestays include a private room and either two or three meals daily taken with the family. Most of the schools integrate excursions and cultural programs into their curriculum. Classes are often small, or even one-on-one, and can last anywhere from 2 to 8 hours a day. Listed below are some of the larger and more established Spanish-language schools, with approximate costs. The majority are located either in Antigua or Quetzaltenango, and to a lesser extent around Lake Atitlán. But there are Spanish-language schools in such far-flung corners of the country as Monterrico and the Petén. Contact the schools for the most current price information.

Guatemalan Spanish is considered one of the most pure, in terms of clarity and pronunciation, in the Americas. Compared to the Spanish spoken in other Latin American countries, Guatemalan Spanish tends to be more clearly enunciated and slightly slower. This is one of the reasons language schools are so popular throughout Guatemala.

Quetzaltenango has the greatest concentration of language schools, followed in short order by Antigua. In broad strokes, the programs in Quetzaltenango are less expensive. In Antigua, you'll pay a slight premium for living and learning in arguably the hippest and most desirable city in the country. That said, in reality, the price difference is often negligible. I personally recommend you decide where you want to spend your time and what kind of side trips and extracurricular adventures you might want to enjoy, and choose by location.

• Academia de Español Guatemala, 7a Calle Oriente, #15, Antigua (tel. 502/7832-5057; www.acad.conexion.com), offers group and one-on-one classes. Their main facility features a lovely garden, with its own swimming pool, as well as free Internet and Wi-Fi connections. A 1-week program including 4 hours of private instruction per day, a homestay, and airport transfers costs Q1,725 ($230/£115).

Academic Trips & Learning Vacations

• Art Workshops in Guatemala (tel. 612/825-0747 in the U.S. and Canada; www.artguat.org). This group offers many creative opportunities, including nearly every genre of writing, plastic arts, and even yoga. While there are opportunities to try your hand at Maya weaving, that class watches the real experts at work and visits the markets where their works are sold. Ten-day tours run around Q11,663 to Q13,463 ($1,555-$1,795/£778-£898) per person, plus airfare, depending on workshop.

Volunteer & Working Trips

If you want to lend a hand while in Guatemala, you have several options. Habitat for Humanity International (tel. 502/7763-5308 in Guatemala; www.habitat.org) has several chapters in Guatemala and sometimes runs organized Global Village programs here. Their Global Village trips are large, group-escorted trips that include work on a Habitat for Humanity building project, as well as other cultural and educational experiences. The costs range from Q9,000 to Q13,500 ($1,200-$1,800/£600-£900), not including airfare, for a 9- to 14-day program.

Alternatively, up in the Western Highlands around Quetzaltenango, you can check in with Entre Mundos (tel. 502/7761-2179; www.entremundos.org), which functions as bridge between a host of non-governmental organizations and community projects. They specifically work to connect foreign volunteers with appropriate community, social, health, and educational projects.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Guatemala is a largely Catholic, socially conservative Central American nation, and in general terms the nation is considerably homophobic. Public displays of same-sex affection are rare, and violence against prominent gay and lesbian activists is not unheard of. For these reasons, the local gay and lesbian communities are pretty discreet. For good, comprehensive information on the current situation for gay men, check out the site Gay Guatemala (www.gayguatemala.com), which appears in both English and Spanish. Information on the lesbian scene, and specifically lesbian clubs and bars, is much harder to come by. While Guatemala City has something of a gay and lesbian scene, and several bars and clubs cater to this clientele, the situation gets radically worse outside of the capital. The more touristy and cosmopolitan destinations of Antigua, Panajachel, and Quetzaltenango can be considered somewhat gay and lesbian friendly; however, the overall reality is rather challenging for gays and lesbians in Guatemala.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators.

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Above and Beyond Tours (tel. 800/397-2681; www.abovebeyondtours.com) are gay Australia tour specialists. San Francisco-based Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) offers worldwide trips and cruises, and Olivia (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com) offers lesbian cruises and resort vacations.

Gay.com Travel (tel. 800/929-2268 or 415/644-8044; www.gay.com/travel or www.outandabout.com) is an excellent online successor to the popular Out & About print magazine. It provides regularly updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in every important destination worldwide. British travelers should click on the "Travel" link at www.uk.gay.com for advice and gay-friendly trip ideas.

The Canadian website GayTraveler (www.gaytraveler.ca) offers ideas and advice for gay travel all over the world.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide, 35th Edition (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide); Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner, 17th Edition (www.odyusa.com); and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Sustainable tourism is conscientious travel. It means being careful with the environments you explore, and respecting the communities you visit. Two overlapping components of sustainable travel are ecotourism and ethical tourism. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines ecotourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people. TIES suggests that ecotourists follow these principles:

• Minimize environmental impact.
• Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect.
• Provide positive experiences for both visitors and hosts.
• Provide direct financial benefits for conservation and for local people.
• Raise sensitivity to host countries' political, environmental, and social climates.
• Support international human rights and labor agreements.

You can find some eco-friendly travel tips and statistics, as well as touring companies and associations -- listed by destination under "Travel Choice" -- at the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org. Also check out Ecotravel.com, which lets you search for sustainable touring companies in several categories (water-based, land-based, spiritually oriented, and so on).

While much of the focus of ecotourism is about reducing impacts on the natural environment, ethical tourism concentrates on ways to preserve and enhance local economies and communities, regardless of location. You can embrace ethical tourism by staying at a locally owned hotel or shopping at a store that employs local workers and sells locally produced goods.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO; www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

Volunteer travel has become increasingly popular among those who want to venture beyond the standard group-tour experience to learn languages, interact with locals, and make a positive difference while on vacation. Volunteer travel usually doesn't require special skills -- just a willingness to work hard -- and programs vary in length from a few days to a number of weeks. Some programs provide free housing and food, but many require volunteers to pay for travel expenses, which can add up quickly.

For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.

Before you commit to a volunteer program, it's important to make sure any money you're giving is truly going back to the local community, and that the work you'll be doing will be a good fit for you. Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a helpful list of questions to ask to determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program.

It's Easy Being Green

Here are a few simple ways you can help conserve fuel and energy when you travel:

• Each time you take a flight or drive a car greenhouse gases release into the atmosphere. You can help neutralize this danger to the planet through "carbon offsetting" -- paying someone to invest your money in programs that reduce your greenhouse gas emissions by the same amount you've added. Before buying carbon offset credits, just make sure that you're using a reputable company, one with a proven program that invests in renewable energy. Reliable carbon offset companies include Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Carbon Neutral (www.carbonneutral.org).
• Whenever possible, choose nonstop flights; they generally require less fuel than indirect flights that stop and take off again. Try to fly during the day; some scientists estimate that nighttime flights are twice as harmful to the environment. And pack light: Each 15 pounds of luggage on a 5,000-mile flight adds up to 50 pounds of carbon dioxide emitted.
• Where you stay during your travels can have a major environmental impact. To determine the green credentials of a property, ask about trash disposal and recycling, water conservation, and energy use; also question if sustainable materials were used in the construction of the property. The website www.greenhotels.com recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements. Also consult www.environmentallyfriendlyhotels.com for more green accommodations ratings.
• At hotels, request that your sheets and towels not be changed daily. (Many hotels already have programs like this in place.) Turn off the lights and air conditioner (or heater) when you leave your room.
• Use public transport where possible; trains, buses, and even taxis are more energy-efficient forms of transport than driving. Even better is to walk or cycle; you'll produce zero emissions and stay fit and healthy on your travels.
• If renting a car is necessary, ask the rental agent for a hybrid, or rent the most fuel-efficient car available. You'll use less gas and save money at the tank.
• Eat at locally owned and operated restaurants that use produce grown in the area. This contributes to the local economy and cuts down on greenhouse gas emissions by supporting restaurants where the food is not flown or trucked in across long distances. Visit Sustain Lane (www.sustainlane.org) to find sustainable eating and drinking choices around the U.S.; also check out www.eatwellguide.org for tips on eating sustainably in the U.S. and Canada.

Getting Around

Shuttles

For most of the major destinations, tourist shuttles or a private car and driver are your best means for getting around. There are a couple of major tourist shuttle services in Guatemala, and almost every hotel tour desk and local tour agency can book you a ride to just about any major tourist destination in the country either on a regularly scheduled shuttle or with a private car and driver.

The main tourist shuttle company is Atitrans (tel. 502/7832-3371 24-hr. reservation number; www.atitrans.com) which offers both regularly scheduled departures to most of the major tourist destinations in the country, as well as private cars or vans with drivers. Or you can contact Clark Tours (tel. 502/2412-4848; www.clarktours.com.gt), Maya Vacations (tel. 502/2426-1400; www.mayavacations.com), or Via Venture (tel. 502/7832-2509; www.viaventure.com).

Shuttle rates from Guatemala City or Antigua to or from other major destinations run between Q90 and Q375 ($12-$50/£6-£25) depending upon the destination. A private car or van with driver should cost between Q600 and Q1,500 ($80-$200/£40-£100) per day, depending on the size and style of the vehicle and how many passengers are traveling.

By Bus

This is by far the most economical way to get around Guatemala. Buses are inexpensive and go nearly everywhere in the country. There are two types: Local buses are the cheapest and slowest; they stop frequently and are generally very dilapidated. They also tend to be overcrowded, and you are much more likely to be the victim of a robbery on one of these. These buses are commonly referred to as "chicken buses" because the rural residents who depend on these buses often have chickens and other livestock as luggage. For all but the most adventurous types, I recommend you avoid these buses.

Express or deluxe buses run between Guatemala City and most beach towns and major cities; these tend to be newer units and much more comfortable. They also tend to be direct buses, thus much quicker. Most have working bathrooms, and some have televisions equipped with DVD players showing late-run movies.

By Car

In general, I don't recommend renting a car in Guatemala. The roads are often dangerous. Guatemalan drivers, particularly bus and truck drivers, have apparently no concern for human life, their own or anybody else's. A brutal Darwinian survival of the fittest reigns on Guatemala's roads. Passing on blind curves seems to be the national sport. Pedestrians, horses, dogs, and other obstacles seem to appear out of nowhere.

I highly recommend you avoid driving at night at all costs. While rare, there have been armed robberies of tourists and Guatemalans along the highways and back roads of Guatemala, particularly at night. Moreover, the inherent dangers of oncoming traffic and unseen obstacles are heightened at night.

Never leave anything of value in a car. Always try to park in a secure parking lot. If that's not possible, try to find a spot where some local kid or industrious worker will guard your car for a tip.

These caveats aren't meant to entirely scare you off from driving in Guatemala. Thousands of tourists rent cars here every year, and the large majority of them encounter no problems. Renting a car is a good option for independent exploring, and it does provide a lot more freedom and save a lot of time over bus travel. Just keep your wits about you.

Note: It's sometimes cheaper to reserve a car in your home country rather than book when you arrive in Guatemala. If you know you'll be renting a car, it's always wise to reserve it well in advance for the high season because the rental fleet still can't match demand.

Among the agencies operating in Guatemala are Avis (tel. 800/331-1212 in the U.S. or 502/2239-3249 in Guatemala; www.avis.com), Budget (tel. 800/527-0700 in the U.S. or 502/2232-7744 in Guatemala; www.budgetguatemala.com.gt), Hertz (tel. 800/654-3131 in the U.S. or 502/2470-3737 in Guatemala; www.hertz.com), National (tel. 800/227-7368 in the U.S. or 502/2362-3000 in Guatemala; www.natcar.com), and Thrifty (tel. 800/367-2277 in the U.S. or 502/2379-8747 in Guatemala; www.thrifty.com). Tabarini (tel. 502/2331-9814; www.tabarini.com) is a good Guatemalan company with offices in Guatemala City, Antigua, and Tikal.

Rates run between Q263 and Q750 ($35-$100/£18-£50) per day, including unlimited mileage and full insurance.

Car Rental Tips -- Although it's preferable to use the coverage provided by your home auto-insurance policy or credit card, check carefully to see if the coverage really holds in Guatemala. Many policies exclude 4WD vehicles and off-road driving -- some of Guatemala can, in fact, be considered off-road. It's possible at some car-rental agencies to waive the insurance charges, but you'll have to pay all damages before leaving the country if you're in an accident. If you do take the insurance, you can expect a deductible of between $750 and $1,500. At some agencies, you can buy additional insurance to lower the deductible. To rent a car in Guatemala, you must be at least 21 years old and have a valid driver's license and a major credit card in your name. You can also rent cars in Antigua, Quetzaltenango, Panajachel, and in Santa Elena and Flores, near Tikal.

Gasoline -- Gasoline, or gasolina in Spanish, is sold as normal and premium; both are unleaded. Premium is just higher octane. Diesel is available at almost every gas station as well. Most rental cars run on premium, but always ask your rental agent what type of gas your car takes. Gas stations are widely available along the highways, and in all major cities, towns, and tourist destinations. When going off to remote places, try to leave with a full tank of gas because gas stations can be harder to find. At press time, premium cost Q35 ($4.65/£2.35) per gallon.

Road Conditions -- Most of the major highways in Guatemala are in pretty good shape. However, once you venture off the major highways, the situation deteriorates quickly and dramatically.

Again, the major highways and tourist destinations are generally well marked. Once you get off the beaten path, though, things change, and you may not encounter any signs or indications as you pass intersection after intersection.

Renter's Insurance -- Even if you already hold your own car-insurance policy at home, coverage doesn't always extend abroad. Be sure to find out whether you'll be covered in Guatemala, whether your policy extends to all persons who will be driving the rental car, how much liability is covered in case an outside party is injured in an accident, and whether the type of vehicle you are renting is included under your contract.

Most major credit cards provide some degree of coverage as well -- provided that they were used to pay for the rental. Again, terms vary widely, so be sure to call your credit card company directly before you rent. Usually, if you are uninsured or are driving abroad, your credit card provides primary coverage as long as you decline the rental agency's insurance. This means that the credit card will cover damage or theft of a rental car for the full cost of the vehicle. If you already have insurance, your credit card will provide secondary coverage, which basically covers your deductible. Credit cards will not cover liability or the cost of injury to an outside party and/or damage to an outside party's vehicle. If you don't hold an insurance policy, you might seriously want to consider purchasing additional liability insurance from your rental company. Be sure to check the terms, however. Some rental agencies cover liability only if the renter is not at fault; even then, the rental company's obligation varies from state to state.

The basic insurance coverage offered by most car-rental companies, known as the Loss/Damage Waiver (LDW) or Collision Damage Waiver (CDW), can cost as much as $20 (£10) per day. It usually covers the full value of the vehicle, with no deductible if an outside party causes an accident or other damage to the rental car. Liability coverage varies according to the company policy. If you're at fault in an accident, however, you will be covered for the full replacement value of the car, but not for liability. Most rental companies require a police report to process any claims you file, but your private insurer will not be notified of the accident.

Before driving off with a rental car, be sure that you inspect the exterior and point out to the rental company representative every tiny scratch, dent, tear, or any other damage. It's a common practice with many Guatemalan car-rental companies to claim that you owe payment for minor dings and dents that the company finds when you return the car. Also, if you get into an accident, be sure that the rental company doesn't try to bill you for a higher amount than the deductible on your rental contract.

Maps -- Car-rental agencies and the INGUAT information centers at the airport and in downtown Guatemala City have adequate road maps. The most detailed map available is produced by International Travel Maps (www.itmb.com), which was updated in 2005 and is available online from the website listed.

Driving Rules -- A current foreign driver's license is valid for the length of your 90-day tourist visa. Seat belts are required for the driver and front-seat passengers.

Official driving rules are often ignored. Drivers seldom use turn signals or obey posted speed limits. Transit police are a rarity, but they will bust you for speeding, so keep to the speed limit (usually 60-90kmph/37-56 mph) if you don't want to get pulled over. Never pay money directly to a police officer who stops you for any traffic violation. Speeding tickets can be charged to your credit card for up to a year after you leave the country if they are not paid before departure.

Breakdowns -- Be warned that emergency services, both vehicular and medical, are extremely limited once you leave Guatemala City, Antigua, or any of the major tourist destinations, and their availability is directly related to the remoteness of your location at the time of breakdown.

If you're involved in a breakdown or accident, you should contact Guatemala's roadside assistance force (PROVIAL; tel. 502/2422-7878), which patrols most of the major highways in the country. Alternately, you can call the police at tel. 110. Finally, you can also call tel. 1500, and they should be able to provide an English-speaking operator and redirect your call to the appropriate agency.

If the police do show up, you've got a fifty-fifty chance of finding them helpful or downright antagonistic. Many officers are unsympathetic to the problems of what they perceive to be rich tourists running around in fancy cars with lots of expensive toys and trinkets. Many are looking for an easy bribe. Success and happy endings run about equal with horror stories.

If you don't speak Spanish, expect added difficulty in any emergency or stressful situation. Don't expect that rural (or urban) police officers, hospital personnel, service-station personnel, or mechanics will speak English.

If your car breaks down and you're unable to get well off the road, check to see whether there are reflecting triangles in the trunk. If there are, place them as a warning for approaching traffic, arranged in a wedge that starts at the shoulder about 30m (98 ft.) back and nudges gradually toward your car. If your car has no triangles, try to create a similar warning marker using a pile of leaves or branches. Finally, there have been some reports of folks being robbed by seemingly friendly good Samaritans who stop to give assistance. To add insult to injury, there have even been reports of organized gangs who puncture tires of rental cars at rest stops or busy intersections, only to follow them, offer assistance, and make off with belongings and valuables.

By Plane

Guatemala still doesn't have a very extensive network of commuter airlines. The only major destination regularly serviced by commuter traffic is Tikal. TACA Regional Airline (tel. 502/2470-8222; www.taca.com) and TAG Airlines (tel. 502/2380-9401; www.tag.com.gt) both have daily service to Tikal.

Charter aircraft can sometimes be hired to travel to some of the more outlying destinations like Quetzaltenango and Puerto Barrios. If you have a big enough group, or big enough budget, and want to charter a plane, contact Aero Ruta Maya (tel. 502/2360-4917) or TAG Airlines (tel. 502/2380-9401; www.tag.com.gt).

Entry Requirements & Customs

Entry Requirements

Citizens of the United States, Canada, Great Britain, all European Union nations, Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand may visit Guatemala for a maximum of 90 days. No visa is necessary, but you must have a valid passport.

It's possible to extend your tourist visa for an additional 90 days, but the process is slightly tedious. To do so, you must go to the Immigration Office, 6a Av. 3-11, Zona 4, Guatemala City (tel. 502/2411-2407). The process involves presenting several authenticated documents and photocopies. Moreover, these documents will need a lawyer's stamp or a notarization from your embassy. Even though the official fee for an extension is just US$15 (£7.50), the whole process can take as long as a week, and cost between US$20 and US$50 (£10-£25).

If you need a visa or have other questions about Guatemala, you can contact any of the following Guatemalan embassies or consulates: in the United States, 2220 R St. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/745-4952); in Canada, 130 Albert St., Ste. 1010, Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 (tel. 613/233-7237); and in Great Britain, 13 Fawcett St., London, England SW10 9HN (tel. 020/7351-3042). There are no Guatemalan embassies in Australia or New Zealand, but you could try contacting the embassy in Japan, 38 Kowa Building 9F, no. 905, 4-12-24 Nishi Azabu, Tokyo 106-0031 (tel. 81/(03)3400-1830).

Coming & Going -- In 2006, Guatemala entered into an immigration and border control treaty with El Salvador, Honduras, and Nicaragua. This agreement, which allows free travel between the countries to all nationals of these signatory nations, creates a single 90-day entry visa for foreign visitors. What this means is that if you travel between these four countries, your total stay cannot exceed 90 days without seeking an extension from the immigration authorities in the country you are visiting as the 90-day period expires. If you want to "renew" your Guatemalan visa by exiting the country for 72 hours and then returning on a new tourist visa, it must be to a country not covered in this agreement.

Medical Requirements -- No shots or inoculations are required to enter Guatemala.

Passports

The websites listed below provide downloadable passport applications as well as the current fees for processing applications. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "International Travel" tab of the U.S. State Department at http://travel.state.gov. Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 4 to 6 weeks (3 weeks for expedited service) but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.

For Residents of Australia -- You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca). Note: Canadian children who travel must have their own passport. However, if you hold a valid Canadian passport issued before December 11, 2001, that bears the name of your child, the passport remains valid for you and your child until it expires.

For Residents of Ireland -- You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 21/494-4700), or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand -- You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

Customs

What You Can Bring into Guatemala -- Visitors to Guatemala may bring any and all reasonable goods and belongings for personal use during their stay. Cameras, computers, and electronic equipment, as well as fishing and diving gear for personal use, are permitted duty-free. Customs officials in Guatemala seldom check arriving tourists' luggage.

What You Can Take Home from Guatemala -- U.S. Citizens: For specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go at www.cbp.gov (click on "Travel," and then click on "Know Before You Go! Online Brochure"). Or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667) and request the pamphlet.

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Tips for Families

If you have enough trouble getting your kids out of the house in the morning, dragging them thousands of miles away may seem like an insurmountable challenge. But family travel can be immensely rewarding, giving you new ways of seeing the world through the eyes of children.

Hotels in Guatemala often give discounts for children under 12, and children under 3 or 4 are usually allowed to stay for free. Discounts for children and the cutoff ages vary according to the hotel, but in general, don't assume that your kids can stay in your room for free.

Hotels offering regular, dependable babysitting service are few and far between. If you'll need a babysitter, make sure that your hotel offers the service, and be sure to ask whether the babysitters are bilingual. In many cases, they are not. This is usually not a problem with infants and toddlers, but it can cause problems with older children.

Recommended online family travel sites include Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an award-winning site that offers travel features, deals, and tips; Traveling Internationally with Your Kids (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children; and Family Travel Files (www.thefamilytravelfiles.com), which offers an online magazine and a directory of off-the-beaten-path tours and tour operators for families.

All children, no matter how young, will need a valid passport to enter Guatemala. By law, minors under 18 need no special permission to enter or leave Guatemala. However, I recommend that adults traveling with children who are not your own carry documented permission from the parent or guardian of record.