What started out in 1953 as a small shop in Taipei selling cooking oil has now grown into a global restaurant empire, with branches throughout Asia, Australia, and the United States. Its claim to fame is xiao long bao (steamed dumplings), which you can order filled with pork, chicken, shrimp, or a combination of pork and black truffle. It comes with shredded ginger, which you mix with the soy sauce and vinegar on your table to make your own dipping sauce. An order of one basket, which contains six dumplings, plus hot and sour soup with shredded pork and bean curd is about all I'm good for, but other temptations on the menu include other types of dumplings, spring rolls, and wonton noodles. This restaurant on a busy corner of Causeway Bay does a roaring business (no reservations are accepted), but the army of staff wearing headphone walkie talkies handles everything quickly and with aplomb. There's a branch in the Silvercord Building, 30 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui (852/2730 6928; MTR: Tsim Sha Tsui).
- Beth Reiber