This somewhat scruffy restaurant has been serving dim sum since the 1920s and is one of the few tea houses that still uses trolleys to disperse bamboo baskets of goodies to the never-ending stream of hungry customers. It's up the stairs, past the pastry shop, where there's usually a queue of people waiting to grab a seat. No one will seat you, unless a waiter takes pity and helps you find a place, so you’ll probably have to stand vigil like everyone else and share a table with others. One of my most memorable experiences was when my table mates, who said they met up here every day, eagerly recommended their favorites. There's no English menu, but the women maneuvering the trolleys will be happy to let you look inside their various baskets. Although the house specialty is dai bao (fluffy dough with chicken, dried mushroom, and salted yolk inside), only 100 or so are made each day and usually fly off the trolley as soon as they emerge from the kitchen. But there are plenty of other choices, like the shiu mai (pork dumplings). This old-timer is one of my Hong Kong favorites for an authentic dim sum meal. Note that no credit cards are accepted.
- Beth Reiber