Things To Do in Hveragerdi and Selfoss

Hveragerði

Hveragerði is at the southern end of an active geothermal region that extends north through Hengill to Lake Þingvallavatn. (One Hveragerði family recently discovered that a hot spring had erupted into their living room.) Since the 1920s, the town has harnessed this energy to grow fruits and vegetables in geothermal greenhouses. At night the greenhouses lend the town an orangey glow.

The horse farm Eldhestar (tel. 480-4800; www.eldhestar.is), on Route 1, about 2km (1 1/4 miles) east of Hveragerði, is highly recommended for short local rides or longer trips on horseback into the Hengill hiking area. Beginners are welcome.

Hengill Hiking Area

Hengill is not Iceland's most dramatic or well-known hiking and camping region, but the mountain's august slopes and steaming geothermal valleys have a quiet authority and devoted following. The most common access points are Hveragerði to the south and Nesjavellir at lake Þingvallavatn to the north. Hengill itself is an 803m (2,634-ft.) active volcano, though its last eruption was about 2,000 years ago. Trail information is well mapped at all access points, and trails are well pegged in varied colors. Guided hiking and biking tours leave from the Fosshotel Nesbúð, next to Nesjavellir.

A Day Hike in Hengill -- A hike to Reykjadalur, or "Smoky Valley," is a great way to experience the Hengill area's best scenery -- capped off with a swim in a natural hot spring -- in as little as 2 1/2 hours. Don't forget your bathing suit.

From Hveragerði, head north on the main street, Breiðamörk, ascending to a level expanse surrounded by mountains. At a division in the road, bear left onto the gravel road marked "Reykjadalur." The road ends at a parking area at the base of the mountains, next to the Varmá River. Across the bridge is a signboard with a trail map of the area. The trail you're looking for is called Rjúpnabrekkur (Ptarmigan Slopes). It proceeds directly from the signboard and is marked with stakes painted like matchsticks.

After an initial ascent, a lesser descent leads into the Reykjadalur valley. The trail then crosses the stream and passes several gurgling mud pools. In just over an hour, you'll reach the head of the valley, with Öklelduhnúkur mountain straight ahead of you. A hot, steaming stream leads uphill to the left (west) along the Klambragil Valley. A cold stream leads uphill to the right (east), where a camping hut is visible. Where the waters merge is the place to swim. If it's too hot, head back downstream to find a suitable temperature.

An enjoyable hour-long trail circumnavigates Öklelduhnúkur. Several trails branch off from this loop trail, but if you stick with the inside route, you'll end up back at the swimming spot. The circuit is spoiled a bit by power lines but has several more geothermal hotspots. Ambitious hikers could continue all the way to Þingvallavatn in a day (after arranging transport on both ends).

Raufarhólshellir

Of all the lava tube caves in Iceland, this one perhaps best combines accessibility and mystique. Raufarhólshellir is essentially an empty riverbed of lava, formed about 3,700 years ago. At 1,350m (4,429 ft.), it's Iceland's second-longest cave, with over 1km (3/4 mile) of complete blackness. The cave ceiling reaches as high as 10m (33 ft.) and averages 12m (39 ft.) in thickness. The ground is strewn with boulders and ice, making some passages difficult to traverse. The most spectacular lava contortions are at the very end, but fascinating ice formations can be seen throughout the route year-round. Entering the cave should not be attempted without a strong flashlight, warm clothing, and good shoes. A helmet and knee pads would be ideal. Exploring the full length of the cave should take around 2 hours. The unmarked parking area is just off Route 39, about 2km (1 1/4 mile) west of the Route 39/Route 38 intersection, between Hveragerði and Þorlákshöfn.

Selfoss

With over 6,000 residents, Selfoss is an important trade center and the largest city in south Iceland, though it doesn't really compel a travelers' attention. Selfoss sprang into existence in 1891, when a bridge was built over the river Öfulsá, replacing ferry transport across the river farther south. The most noteworthy feature is the town's geothermal pool;, it has a waterslide designed to look like a wedge of Swiss cheese.

Eyrarbakki

From Selfoss, the coastal towns of Eyrarbakki and Stokkseyri can be reached in about 10 minutes by car. The route proceeds across the Floí marshland, an important breeding ground for birds. Both towns were once prominent fishing and trading centers, but neither had a natural harbor, so they were eclipsed by the bridge at Selfoss and a new harbor at Þorlákshöfn to the west.

Eyrarbakki was once the largest community in southwestern Iceland, and has an unusual concentration of turn-of-the-last-century houses. As you enter town, the dominant white building is the Litla-Hraun jail, Iceland's largest. The country's total prison population is under 200, so there should be more than enough room.

Kayakaferðir Stokkseyri, Heiðarbrún 24 (tel. 896-5716; www.kajak.is; closed Nov-Mar), runs 1- to 2-hour kayak tours in nearby coastal lagoons and marshland canals full of birdlife.

Stokkseyri

Stokkseyri has a bizarre mix of tourist attractions, though most visitors are here for the excellent lobster restaurant.