Even from the outside, you can see Kanaat is a restaurant that means business. Black panelling and royal greens stand out in city that tends to favor more garish packaging. Inside, everything from the marble surfaces to the white overcoats of the waitstaff show that this place takes itself (and its food) seriously. Serving up Turkish classics since 1933, this local favorite has taken the esnaf (tradesman) restaurant concept (Turkish home cooking served from steam counters) and given it a thorough polish. The cold starter counter is a colorful display of the season's bounty, cooked traditionally in olive oil and seasoned with fresh herbs. On the opposite side of the dining room, steam rises from the micro kitchen that bustles as it keeps the hot plates hot. Here, lamb is presented in a multitude of ways: slow-cooked chunks on eggplant puree, braised shanks in tomato sauces, and minced and fried as kӧfte (patties). Sit in the center of the room and the clattering from either side gives the impression of being inside the kitchen itself. For a quieter experience, sit by the floor-to-ceiling windows and watch the world go by. But don't linger too long—this is still a tradesman's restaurant after all. No alcohol is available and the lightning speed of the service means that most diners have eaten three courses, paid, and left in under 15 minutes.