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For now, officials who say that tourists may not stay inside the park seem to be winning their battle with villagers who offer basic beds for around ¥20, and simple meals for ¥10 to ¥25. Rooms have limited plumbing and no hot water, but some are in Tibetan style with brightly painted tables and window frames. Inquire at the Zharu Si and at villages on the west side of the main road. You'll probably be asked to arrive after 6pm and leave before 7am, to avoid problems with officials.

Most visitors stay in one of the many hotels lining the 11km (7-mile) stretch of road outside Jiuzhai Gou Goukou (Jiuzhai Gou Entrance), identified on the map as Zhangzha Town.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.