If you want to experience the medieval spirit of daily life within the Old City (and catch the early morning market vibe), your best bets are the quaint Pal Haveli or at the other end of the price range the mod, expensive boutique hotel Raas.

If you'd prefer to escape the chaos of the Old City, head for the outskirts, to the newer part of town (20 min. from the fort) where there are a number of well-run, respectable guesthouses and hotels, of which we like Ratan Villas, Devi Bhawan and Ajit Bhawan (in ascending order of price). Aside from these there is the reliable Taj Hari Mahal (5 Residency Rd.; tel. 0291/243-9700; www.tajhotels.com; from Rs 14,000 for a well-appointed superior pool-facing room), a smart, spacious hotel built in the style of a Marwari palace. Aimed predominantly at the wealthy business market, this will suit those who want to be cocooned in a bland modern hotel with professional service but at the expense of character; if you can afford it, you'll be far better off at the Taj-managed Umaid Bhawan Palace.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.