Kampot is a great place to spend a couple of days winding down. A neat grid of French colonial villas and houses line the Kampong Bay River, on the opposite bank of which are low mountains making for beautiful lingering sunsets. A strip of small cafes, restaurants, and guesthouses line the riverfront. The main attraction here is the eerie and decayed old French colonial hill station of Bokor. At the time of writing, access to Bokor is either not allowed or highly restricted as the inevitable renovation of Cambodia's only real place in the cool gets underway. Don't let that put you off a visit to Kampot and the surrounding area -- there is more to it than Bokor. The surrounding countryside is some of the prettiest in the country with the usual flat, deep green rice paddies, this time interspersed with steep limestone outcrops and crisscrossed with inlets and rivers.