Hotels in Kilwa Kisiwani

You won't find five-star resorts in this remote part of Tanzania, but the situation is greatly improved from a few years back, when accommodations options were limited to a few basic local guesthouses. Standalone restaurants remain somewhat thin on the ground, but all the lodges mentioned here serve adequate to good meals, with seafood being something of a specialty.

There are two good midrange hotels in Kilwa Masoko. The 12-room Kilwa Seaview Resort (tel. 022/265-0250; www.kilwa.net; $90 double B&B) is an attractive beachfront lodge with accommodation in spacious en suite bungalows with tall makuti roofs, a good restaurant, and camping space ($5 per person). Farther out of town, Kilwa Dreams (tel. 0784/58-5330; www.kilwadreams.com; $60 double B&B) is a small owner-managed lodge with an isolated location offering accommodation in seven blue seafront cottages on Pwani Beach. In Mikindani, Ten Degrees South (tel. 0746/85-5833; www.tendegreessouth.com; $60 double B&B) is a pleasant waterfront lodge whose English owner-manager also runs the eco2 diving center and plans to build a new self-catering lodge on a hilltop plot overlooking the bay.