Follow the neon to this seasonal beach-town classic, which is the place in York Beach for local color -- it has been a summer institution here since 1896. Visitors and their kids love gawking through the plate-glass windows at ancient taffy machines hypnotically churning out taffy in volume (millions of candies a year). The restaurant, right behind the candy-making operation, is low on frills -- it feels like long-gone New England, even if the food isn't all that impressive. Diners sit on stout oak furniture around a stone fireplace or elbow-to-elbow at an antique soda fountain; breakfasts are your basic New England diner standards, while for lunch and dinner you eat soups, burgers, and too-pricey sandwiches. But what saves the place is the candy counter, where you can line up to buy boxes of wax-wrapped taffy "kisses" (check the striping or coloring on the candy to know its flavor; I like the molasses and peppermint ones), almond-pocked birch bark, and other penny-candy treats.