Things To Do in Koge

Many Copenhageners, especially those with a boat or yacht, flock to Køge Bay in the summer, the way New Yorkers go to the Hamptons. We find the town very sleepy in winter; but in summer, it bursts into bloom and its population swells. The bay is one vast pleasure-boat harbor set against a backdrop of beaches that we find bone-chilling even in July.

The harbor is only a short walk from the medieval center, and it has the same appeal for the people of Køge as Nyhavn does for Copenhageners. We enjoy the atmosphere here and like watching the action in the busy harbor, which is filled with Baltic freighters, fishing boats, and pleasure craft of all types. If you walk to the North Pier, you'll find a number of eating places and cafes in old-fashioned houses, where you can relax over a meal or order a cold Danish beer.

Opening onto the bay is a monument commemorating the battle in Køge Bay. You'll see it standing some 9m (30 ft.) high near the harbor. This granite obelisk bears the names of maritime heroes Niels Juel and Ivar Huitfeldt. Huitfeldt commanded the Danebrog, which burst into flames when bombarded by Swedish forces in 1710.

Before taking a look at the bay, wander the medieval streets of Køge's Gamle Stan, or Old Town. You'll pass fish markets selling freshly caught flatfish, herring, and eel. Stroll through the town parks and surrounding woodland and peek into the courtyards of the old buildings left from the Middle Ages. In summer, live street entertainment will amuse you (giving a few kroner to the young musicians is always appreciated, of course).

The best street for wandering is Kirkestræde, lined with graceful old houses. A small building on the street, no. 20, is reputed to be the oldest half-timbered house in Denmark, dating back to 1527. A couple of porch stones from the Middle Ages, said to be the only pair in Denmark in their original position, are in front of a house at Smedegarden 13, near an ancient tree.

Of the town's churches, Sankt Nicolai Church, Kirkestræde 29 (tel. 56-65-13-59), 2 blocks north of Torvet, is a Gothic structure dating from 1450, named after St. Nicholas, patron saint of mariners. History records that King Christian IV watched the Battle of Køge, in which Niels Juel sank many Swedish vessels, from the church tower. The church has a number of art treasures, including an altarpiece by Lorents Jørgensen and 100 tombs of Køge merchants. Note the carved angels on the pews -- they are without noses, thanks to drunken Swedish troops who in the 1600s came this way, cutting off the noses with their swords. What sorry fun that must have been for them. Look for a little brick projection at the east end of the church tower. Called Lygten, it was for centuries a place where a burning lantern was hung to guide sailors safely back into the harbor. From mid-June to late August, hours are Monday to Friday 10am to 4pm, Sunday noon to 4pm; off-season, Monday to Friday 10am to noon. Admission is DKK10 ($1.70/£1).

On the north side of the Torvet (market square) is the Køge Rådhus, believed to be the oldest town hall in Denmark still in use. The building in the rear was erected very early in the 17th century to serve as accommodations for King Christian IV on his trips between the royal palaces in Copenhagen and Nykøbing F (the "F" refers to the island of Falster). You can wander into the courtyard at the town hall to see a modern sculpture created by Jens Flemming Sørensen.

A path for walkers and cyclists leads along the Køge River with access from the center in several places. Go here to enjoy some peace and quiet -- and take along a picnic lunch if the weather's fair. There are several delis in town where you can pick up some open-faced sandwiches and drinks to take along. At a park, Lovparken, only a 5-minute walk from the Torvet, a wooden bridge takes you across the river, where you have a panoramic view of the riverside and its gardens.

The coastline near Køge offers several fine spots for bathing. Directly north of Køge you'll come upon a land of dunes and lyme grass, with a sandy beach on Ølsemagle Revle. Near the city center, Køge Sydstrand, or south beach, offers camping sites, and a bit farther south, the beach at Strøby Ladeplads is ideal for windsurfers.

We try to time visits to Køge on market days, which take place on Wednesday and Saturday (it's best to go in the morning) at the main market square, Torvet, the best-preserved market square from the Middle Ages in Denmark. The town is crowded with people from the countryside, many of whom have products to sell, including fruits, vegetables, Danish cheese, and smoked fish, as well as handicrafts and even secondhand goods. If you have a choice of days, we have found that the Saturday market is livelier. You can wander from stall to stall as street musicians -- most often jazz artists -- entertain you from courtyards nearby.

The best and largest selection of Danish gifts is found at Jørgen Müller, Torvet 3-5 (tel. 56-65-25-80), on the market square. Here you can pick up Georg Jensen silver, exquisite Royal Copenhagen porcelain, Holmegaard glass -- you name it. The best selection for women's fashion is Rokkjoer, Torvet 2 (tel. 56-65-02-58), which has an impressive array of continental coats, blouses, and dresses -- many in what they call "oversize."

For South Zealand antiques, the best outlet is Antik Bahuset, Brogade 16E (tel. 56-66-17-19), selling old furnishings, pewter, brass, and a lot of pre-1900 items. It's open only Saturday 10am to 1pm, unless you call for an appointment. Another good antiques store is Tamalat Antik, Brogade 22 (tel. 56-65-63-10), with a wide selection of furniture, and good buys in paintings, jewelry, glass, and porcelain. Finally, Krybben, Torvet 19 (tel. 56-63-02-01), offers a wide selection of clothing, crafts, shoes, and antiques -- an odd mixture, but intriguing nonetheless. A special feature of Krybben is an upstairs gallery exhibiting the works of a talented local painter, Anne Kureer.

For the novelty alone, you might want to visit Købmandshandel, Vestergade 6 (tel. 56-66-30-67), a grocer's shop of yesterday. Two hundred different sorts of tea, spices from around the world, and everything from olive oils to licorice root to rock candy are on sale -- you'll even find syrups, fruity jams, and handmade candles in rainbow colors.

Køge used to be known for its goldsmiths. Thriving since 1979, Guldsmedien Ejvind Sørensen, Nørregade 31 (tel. 56-66-19-91), is in a charming old building dating from 1612. A selection of gold and silver jewelry is sold here.

For the very best of Scandinavian, especially Danish, design, not only furnishings but also home accessories, head for Hjelm's Bolighus, Nørregade 32 (tel. 56-65-06-30), the leading design outlet in Køge for more than 4 decades.

Begin your nightly pub-crawl, as the locals do, at Toldboden, Havnen 27 (tel. 56-65-50-75), built between 1833 and 1847. Carlsberg is served on draft, and you can also order Guinness, downing your suds in a summer courtyard. Live music is presented every Friday evening and on Saturday afternoons, but mostly it's a place to gather and meet the locals.

Our favorite spot to meet friends for a friendly chat at night is La Fontaine, Torvet 28 (tel. 56-65-51-00), which somehow always manages to have the coldest beer in town. It's right on the market square by the old fountain and stays open Sunday to Thursday 10am to midnight, and Friday and Saturday 10am to 2am -- late hours for sleepy Køge.

For young people, the hottest place to be at night is the Ritz Rock Café, Torvet 22 (tel. 56-65-33-77), which is Køge's version of the fabled Hard Rock cafes. People come here for the dance music and to eat and drink, partaking of the American and Tex-Mex cuisine. On a busy night, it holds up to 1,000 patrons. On the ground floor, you'll find the most impressive sound and light equipment, whereas the second floor is smaller and more formal, attracting a more mature clientele.

One of the most charming places for a quiet drink at night is Hugos Vinkælder, Brogade 19 (tel. 56-65-58-50), which opens its courtyard in fair weather. This cozy little wine bar retreat is found in the cellar of an antique building dating from 1392. Filled with atmosphere, it always has a well-chosen selection of wine, which it will sell by the half-bottle if desired. Open Monday to Thursday 10am to 11pm, Friday and Saturday 10am to 1am.

Ask at the tourist office what's on the bill at Køge Bugt Kulturhus, Portalen 1 (tel. 43-97-83-00); the Køge Bay Cultural Center is the venue for a wide range of concerts and theatrical performances. An exhibit of Danish and international art is displayed in its exhibition hall. Tickets for all types of cultural events are sold at the tourist office. Of course, you might want to skip the theatrical performances if you don't speak Danish, but concerts and other entertainment might interest English speakers.