Hotels in Koh Kong

The Champa Koh Kong Guesthouse (St. 1 north of the ferry dock; tel. 035/393-912; $7-$17) is a good riverside option. They also have a restaurant and organize tours and scuba diving. The Asian Hotel (riverfront; tel. 035/936-667; $15-$20 double) is a new riverfront hotel offering clean, large air-conditioned rooms with all the amenities. Rooms have cable TV, minibar, and en suite bathroom, most with hot water. It has some rooms with a balcony overlooking the river. The restaurant next door serves Khmer, Thai, and Western food. The Bopha Koh Kong Hotel (off the riverfront very near the Sihanoukville ferry dock; tel. 016/350-123; $5-$20 double) is a newish hotel offering large air-conditioned rooms with cable TV, fridge, and en suite bathroom with hot water. The restaurant serves Khmer, Thai, and Chinese dishes. The rooms are very clean, though the lurid nylon bedspreads might give you a headache. They organize tours to surrounding beaches and mangrove forests. The Dugout Hotel (St. 1; tel. 016/650-325; $6-$12 double) is a popular full-service guesthouse, bar, and restaurant with both fan and air-conditioned rooms. They also have a restaurant, swimming pool, and Internet access, and they organize tours. The Koh Kong City Hotel (St. 1; tel. 012/901-902; $15-$35 double) is a large, comfortable, new, midrange hotel right on the riverside with a great sunset view of the river and Koh Kong Bridge. It offers clean, nicely furnished rooms with all-modern amenities including A/C, cable TV, minibar, and hot water. There is Internet access in the lobby and a riverside seafood restaurant serving Khmer, Thai, and Chinese food.

A short way outside of Koh Kong lies the ecoresort Rainbow Lodge (20km/12 miles south of Koh Kong on National Rte. 48; tel. 012/160-2585; www.rainbowlodgecambodia.com; $35-$80 double). You can reach it only by boat after driving 20km (12 miles) along the road to Phnom Penh and then taking a 10-minute boat trip upriver. Buses run from Phnom Penh to the nearby town of Tatai; visit their website for further directions. It is set in peaceful surroundings right in the Cardomom Mountains. Here you can experience firsthand the sights and sounds of the jungle from the comfort of a traditional Khmer-style bungalow. Kayaks and rowboats are available for guests free of charge and all meals are included in the tariff. You can book either via e-mail or by phone and they will send a boat to pick you up when you arrive.

All the guesthouses and hotels in Koh Kong double up as restaurants. In addition, Baan Peakmai (St. 6; tel. 035/393-906; main courses $2; daily 7am-10pm) is a pleasant Thai-style garden restaurant serving good seafood. The Sauna Garden Bar (St. 3; tel. 015/601-633; main courses $2; daily 7am-10pm) is a similar operation. Bob's Bar (St. 9; tel. 016/326-455; main courses $2; daily 9am-10pm) is Australian owned and serves a range of Western dishes. Sunset Bar (St. 1; tel. 016/326-455; daily 8am-9pm) is tucked down an alleyway and is on the water's edge. As its name suggests, it is a good place to watch the sun sinking to the west. The Riverfront Restaurant (St. 1; tel. 011/943-497; main courses $3-$4.50; daily 7am-9pm) offers similarly fantastic views, this time accompanied by excellent Thai soup enjoyed in a shaded sala.