With a sun-catching terrace, Portofino cannot fail to capture regular passing trade—but the number of return customers indicates the quality of its cuisine. It’s not cheap—there’s a special weekend menu at 35 z, designed for diners to linger—but dishes such as braised veal tongue with morel mushroom sauce, and lamb hock baked in aromatic goat’s cheese sauce, will have you recommending the place to others.