Things To Do in Lamego

However you arrive in Lamego it's hard to avoid the Santuário de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios, Monte de Santo Estevão (tel. 254 614 392. Open May–Sept 7:30am–8pm, Oct–Apr 7:30am–6pm). The twin-towered Rococo church looms over the city from its hilltop perch, linked to downtown by a monumental 686-step staircase  that zigzags up to the summit in a cascade of blue-tiles, Baroque spires, fountains and statues surrounded by greenery. It is an exceptional sight. At night, it's bathed in golden light. Work on the church started in 1750 on the site of a ruined 14th-century pilgrim's chapel, but it wasn't finished until 1905. The interior is a riot of gold-covered woodwork and azulejos under a carved ceiling in sky-blue and white. If you can't face the walk up the stairs, there's a road that snakes up through the forested hillside to the back of the church and parking at the top. Every year in early September pilgrimages to the summit draw thousands to follow a procession behind sacred statues of the Virgin Mary carried on ox-drawn carts or the shoulders of devotees. One of the biggest religious festivals in Portugal, it's accompanied by two weeks of street parties, concerts and fireworks displays.

Down in the city, many of Lamego's main sites are concentrated at the end of a broad tree-lined avenue, Avenida Visconde Guedes Teixeira, that leads towards the stairway. At No. 31, the Pastelaria Scala (tel.  254 612 699, open Thurs–Tues 8am–8pm), makes a good place for a break. Its dark wood-lined interior conjures up a distinct 1950s feel and it's usually packed with locals lining up to buy bôlas de Lamego—thin slices of pie that can be filled with tuna, sardine, salt-cod, pork marinated in red wine, but most typically the famed local ham.

At the northern end of the avenue is the Museu de Lamego, Largo de Camões (www.museudelamego.pt, tel. 254 600 230; open 10am–6pm; admission 3€) one of Portugal's best regional museums. Housed in the former bishops' palace built in the 1700s, it holds an array of treasures including a series of five paintings by the Renaissance master Grão Vasco (1475–1542) depicting Biblical scenes, including a charming depiction of the creation of animals. There's a series of huge Flemish tapestries from the 16th-century, enchanting multicolored tiles from the 17th-century, and rare medieval sculptures. It also organizes regular cultural events, from open-air movie showings to exhibitions of photography and contemporary art.

Across the square from the museum is the Sé, Lamego's Cathedral, Largo da Sé (tel. 254 612 147. Open 8am–1pm, 3–7pm, free admission). It was founded in 1159, but of the original building, ordered by Portugal’s founding king Afonso Henriques, only the stubby, square bell tower remains. Most of the church is late-medieval Gothic in style. Beyond the great granite arches of the main door is a dramatic arched ceiling coated with brightly colored frescos showing Old Testament scenes. They were painted in 1738 by Nicolau Nasoni, the Italian architect who put the Baroque into Porto's skyline. The graceful, double level Renaissance cloister enclosing a tranquil garden is also worth a visit.
 
The oldest part of the city curves uphill towards the medieval castle along streets full of charm like Rua de Olaria and Rua do Castelo. Busy Praça do Comércio is lined with handsome townhouses fronted by high windows and wrought-iron balconies. The Castle, Rua do Castelo,  (tel. 254 098 090. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Admission free) was fought over by Muslims and Christians in the 10th and 11th centuries. On misty nights, they say, the battlements are haunted by the spirit of a Moorish princess slain by her father for eloping with a Christian knight. The walls offer great views and a recently opened medieval water tank in the basement holds a multimedia exhibition on the history of the city.
 
If you have time, pop into the nearby church of Santa Maria de Almacave, Rua das Cortes, (tel. 254 612 460. Open 7am–noon, 4–7pm. Admission free). Built in the 12-century in the Romanesque style, it's one of the oldest buildings in Lamego and is where Afonso Henriques held the first cortes, or parliament, of Portuguese nobles in 1143 after declaring independence from Spanish overlords. The interior is modest but has some pretty azulejos. Visitors staying into the evening should catch a show at the Teatro Ribeiro Conceição, Largo Camões (www.teatroribeiroconceicao.pt, tel. 254 600 070) which has regular concerts and movie showings. The building was constructed as a hospital in the 1720s. After a fire destroyed the interior, it was converted into an elegant, three-tiered theater in the 1920s.

A pleasant hour-long walk from downtown (or a 10 minute drive) is the Capela de São Pedro de Balsemão, on a little unnamed lane beside the stream running north out of town. (www.culturanorte.pt, tel. 254 600 230; open Tues–Sun 10am–1pm, 2–8pm, admission free). This is reputed to be one of the oldest churches in Portugal, dating back to the 6th century. Although the outside was transformed in the 1700s, the interior is a fascinating mix of Visigoth and Romanesque with some unusual Islam-influenced touches. There's a splendid medieval tomb containing the remains of bishop of Porto.

Further afield, the pretty village of Ucanha, 15 minutes drive south of Lamego, is worth a visit for the imposing medieval tower protecting its stone bridge and the Caves da Murganheira, a sparkling wine producer with cellar carved deep into the rock, Abadia Velha, Ucanha, (www.murganheira.com, tel. 254 670 185; Open Mon–Fri 9am–5:30, visits by appointment only).

We've also listed specific quinto (wine estates) to visit.  For more details on quintas and Douro wine production, check out  www.dourowinetourism.com, which has wide range of information. Specialists in wine tours include Wine Tourism Portugal (www.winetourismportugal.com, tel. 226 102 075) and Douro Wine Traveller (www.dourowinetraveller.com, 📞 934 753 284) which runs three-day trips out of Porto for small groups from 1,045€ per person.