When the Detroit-based chain arrived in 2013, it fit right in with the other steakhouses in town, perhaps because it “went native.” The outposts in its hometown are more modern and chic; here, they went all-in on the old-school, but upscale, Vegas vibe. The brick-lined hallway evokes walking through a grotto, while tall, high-backed leather booths make cozy date spots. It’s a place Dean and Frank would have headed to after a show, had this place been around. The focus is on steaks from butchers like Pat LaFrieda, each served with a selection of sauces. (I think the signature Zip Sauce, a tangy, herby butter whose exact ingredients the staff won’t divulge, is the best choice to go with big cuts like the rib eye and the enormous 32-ounce Tomahawk steak, served with the long rib bone still attached so you can pretend you’re a caveman.) If you go Italian, you’ll understand why this chain has been so popular in Detroit for the past 20 years. With dishes like hearty veal ragu with wide ribbons of pappardelle, and potato gnocchi tossed with wild mushroom and Madeira wine sauce, Andiamo has quickly became one of my favorites.
- Grace Bascos