Washington, D.C., Chef Richard is aiming to reinvent the 24-hour Las Vegas cafe with upscale bistro. The trappings are certainly more luxe; instead of vinyl booths and keno boards, you get a sleekly modern design, full bar, and big windows overlooking the plaza in front of Caesars Palace. The menu is eclectic, with hints of Chef’s French cuisine background in the mussels and cheese plate, but options run the gamut from American classics like burgers and steaks to comfort food like spaghetti and meatloaf. Although there are occasional bum notes in the main courses (the meatloaf was a little overdone), delightful “lighter” options like the bacon-and-onion tart or the signature Faux Gras made with chicken liver, butter, and cream keep things moving briskly. Breakfasts include simple fare to full-on feasts (steak and eggs, anyone?), while the late-night dining offers a little bit of everything so you can nosh after a night of clubbing. There’s even a “Late Risers” menu of breakfast items served from 11am until 6am, which seems highly apropos for Vegas.
- Rick Garman