Though his TV persona on shows like Hell’s Kitchen and Kitchen Nightmares make chef Gordon Ramsay seem like a terror, in reality he’s a passionate chef who earned many accolades before he ever became famous. Out of his five restaurants in town, this is his finest. Enter via the tubelike “Chunnel” structure, which is meant to “transport” guests from “Paris” to “London.” On the ceiling are a Union Jack and a neon sculpture that looks like a bunch of random squiggles, but the lines actually represent Ramsay’s hand motions when he’s making beef Wellington. The Wellington, one of the dishes feared most by contestants on Hell’s Kitchen, is done superbly here, in the classic manner, with a filet wrapped in prosciutto and cooked with a mushroom duxelles inside pastry dough. Steaks are a must, and they’re presented to guests on a multitiered mirrored cart, so you can choose between the 28-day dry-aged cuts or the more marbled American Wagyu. The Wagyu rib cap is pricey, but luscious and tender. The other Gordon Ramsay restaurants on the Strip have a version of the sticky toffee pudding, but it’s best at the steakhouse. The traditional English dessert cake comes soaked in brown sugar toffee sauce, with a side that looks like a stick of butter but is really brown butter ice cream.