The fiery British Ramsay, whose popular Hell’s Kitchen and Kitchen Nightmares shows on Fox have turned him into a household name, was conspicuously absent from the crowded celebrity chef restaurant lineup in Vegas for a long time. That has been corrected, with not one but three new eateries opening within a year of each other including this, the flagship steakhouse. The cute concept design moves you from Paris (the host hotel) to London via a structure meant to evoke the Chunnel containing the often-crowded bar. Once inside, the two-story restaurant features English drawing-room furnishings and decor mixed with whimsical modern touches like a giant Union Jack painted on the ceiling. The food itself is fairly steakhouse basic (meat, seafood, and so on) but with a few British twists thrown in to keep it interesting (fish and chips, Beef Wellington). Cuts of beef are aged for 28 days in Pat La Freida’s Himalayan salt room and then served with a variety of sauce options to dress it up. The traditional filet was fantastic without the need for accompaniments. Save your money and go for the standard cuts instead of upgrading to the Kobe—the quality gap isn’t big enough to justify the price differential. Although it doesn’t necessarily break new ground in the crowded steakhouse market, this one should allow fans of the Ramsay brand to feel as though they have gotten their money’s worth.
- Rick Garman